BeQuiet Dark Base Pro 900 Watercooled Build

Bone9 · 19 Jan 2017 at 15:18

OJ46 said:
Now that's an idea! With the RGB LED you can have the brightness change as well, so if mounted at the bottom of the thermometer you could start with a dim blue, then have it gradually getting brighter as it moves through to red, filling the thermometer as it goes... Sorry if I've just made a load of extra work for you!!

No mate I love it. That sounds perfect! Just need the thermometer logo now. Will look after work.

Smffy · 19 Jan 2017 at 15:49

The front will look pretty much like the hexgear case I had for a bit, lights well as you're planning to do it. I'd got for a more interesting logo that describes the build theme really but it's gonna be a personal thing.

Bone9 · 19 Jan 2017 at 16:05

Smffy said:
The front will look pretty much like the hexgear case I had for a bit, lights well as you're planning to do it. I'd got for a more interesting logo that describes the build theme really but it's gonna be a personal thing.

I can't think of anything mate. Been thinking all week.

Smffy · 19 Jan 2017 at 16:21

What describes the rig best? Dark? Quiet? The kit inside? Search around those keywords on google images or deviant art. Like: dark, raven for example looks good simplified. Quiet, just says 'Shhh...' on the front. Kit inside, nemesis logo for the rads is quite different/cool.

Bone9 · 20 Jan 2017 at 14:56

Smffy said:
What describes the rig best? Dark? Quiet? The kit inside? Search around those keywords on google images or deviant art. Like: dark, raven for example looks good simplified. Quiet, just says 'Shhh...' on the front. Kit inside, nemesis logo for the rads is quite different/cool.

Cheers mate

Bone9 · 20 Jan 2017 at 15:01

Having some issues with getting the front panel cut atm. Still trying to sort it out. I've got the acrylic panel ordered so should have that soon. This is an example (just a section of the top)

What rgb stuff do I need for the Aquaero 6? Might have to lose this idea and just work on the lit hex's as its going to weaken the door quite a bit already.

Thinking blue for the hex leds.

Bone9 · 20 Jan 2017 at 15:13

Is this all I need?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-wc-125-aq.html

Smffy · 20 Jan 2017 at 15:27

Bone9 said:
Is this all I need?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-wc-125-aq.html

Pretty sure most work but potentially yes... Or a strip might light it more effectively.

OJ46 · 20 Jan 2017 at 16:10

Bone9 said:
Is this all I need?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-wc-125-aq.html

One of these would be your best option, controls up to 4 RGB LED strips.

Could have the bottom blue, then the top gradually glowing more red as the temperatures rise... Sorry, I'm a sucker for temperature controlled lights

Bone9 · 20 Jan 2017 at 16:31

I meant have the hex panel light up blue. I plan on drilling and inserting loads of leds all around the edge.

The rgb led would be for the smallish logo at the bottom if I can make it work. Was thinking of 1 led mounted in the acrylic pointing up through it. That's if I have enough space and it doesn't make it too weak.

Bone9 · 20 Jan 2017 at 17:38

Right just herd back from the water jet people and they want to charge me an arm and leg from the original quote so its not worth it.

I need to come up with another solution. How about I cut a rectangle hole in the door and screw the acrylic piece in through the front? Probs 6 x countersunk or button head bolts.
Spray the front of the acrylic black and then sand the paint off each of the holes?

Cenedd · 20 Jan 2017 at 18:01

The RGB LED you linked to is correct. Plugs into the RGB header on the Aquaero. I don't think it can supply enough current to run a strip and you'd have to find a common cathode strip when most are common anode. The Farbwerk is good and will take strips as it's set for common anode. Can also do single LEDs off it but need to order common anode RGB LEDs from China (only common cathode available here it seems) and then solder resistors inline for each colour and each LED. Can supply details if necessary - some in my log too.

Bone9 · 20 Jan 2017 at 18:18

Would these look dodgy holding the acrylic on going through the front? 6 of them?

Bone9 · 24 Jan 2017 at 21:52

Opinions on this logo please guys.

Cenedd · 24 Jan 2017 at 22:05

Looks good but maybe a bit bigger? Brings to mind Terry Pratchett's Death-of-Rats otherwise

Cenedd · 24 Jan 2017 at 22:11

Bone9 said:
Would these look dodgy holding the acrylic on going through the front? 6 of them?

If you mean spread over the whole front, no, I wouldn't think so. Maybe countersink them so they don't need the counter-sunk washer. If you're talking about for just the logo, then no, too much.

Bone9 · 24 Jan 2017 at 22:15

Cenedd said:
Looks good but maybe a bit bigger? Brings to mind Terry Pratchett's Death-of-Rats otherwise

It's only going to be lit with the one rgb led. Also I'm a bit tight on space there and don't want to weaken it too much.

Bone9 · 24 Jan 2017 at 22:16

Cenedd said:
If you mean spread over the whole front, no, I wouldn't think so. Maybe countersink them so they don't need the counter-sunk washer. If you're talking about for just the logo, then no, too much.

I meant one at each corner just out side of the hex's and one half way down each side. They can't be countersunk as it's only 1mm thick alu.

I'm trying really hard to get it cut out so shouldn't have to bolt it.

Bone9 · 24 Jan 2017 at 22:39

I'm also now thinking about doing the hex's in rgb

Cenedd · 25 Jan 2017 at 10:05

Hexes in RGB gives you the option of changing colour either to preference or by temperature. Currently my pump, GFX and CPU blocks each change colour according to their temperature and the res and front light change colour based on the coolant temperature. Hit the max of 4 RGB controller channels the Aquaero 6 can manage. Could hand some of them off to the Farbwerk I believe if necessary but prefer not to have any USB connection to the Farbwerk that I'd need to configure it.

Farbwerk will give you four channels of RGB strips. Go for the light water resistant type (there's a heavier one that's sort of set in plastic like a rope light but the lighter one just has a gel covering set onto the strip) not for the water resistance - although that could be useful in a worst case scenario! - but because on the non water resistant versions the contacts are exposed every 3 LEDs so that you can cut to length. Problem is that you can short them out fairly easily if you're a klutz....like me :rolleyes: