Big Bike Thread

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I dont generally deal with the 36 and 32 range, mostly the Fox 40's. Everytime a pair has come into the shop they are leaking, they damage VERY easy compared to Marazochi and other brands. And one guy even managed to puncture a hole in the bottom of them. Having said that, they are the nicest and more stable fork ive ridden.

Yea its a MK1 Escort. My dream car :p
 
SgtTupac said:
I dont generally deal with the 36 and 32 range, mostly the Fox 40's. Everytime a pair has come into the shop they are leaking, they damage VERY easy compared to Marazochi and other brands. And one guy even managed to puncture a hole in the bottom of them. Having said that, they are the nicest and more stable fork ive ridden.

Yea its a MK1 Escort. My dream car :p

yeah ive heard of them being punctured too before, but then a 40mm stanchion fork that weighs around 6.8lbs is gonna have material removed from some areas. Also seen a few crack at the brace. If you want a forks thats more fit and forget then go with marzocchi. When i was in Morzine last summer, out of the people i knew, the ones with the 888s were the only ones who werent complaning (me included :) ) 40s were breaking and boxxers blowing
 
collisster said:
+ I might be wacking one of these on
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=368
how hard are they to fit? and do you have to remover the bb to fit them? any guides :D

thanks

Depends on what frame it is and what crankset you have on there at the moment.

Standard ISIS/sqaure taper requires a new BB since fitting the chain device effectively makes it a wider BB shell width so you need an E type BB(for use with bb mount front mechs) and usually have to change the axle length of the BB to give the right chainline.

For external BB(shimano saint/xtr/hone/xt/lx some race face and truvativ...pretty much any new style of crank) only require you to take a BB cup out and replace one of the spacers with the chain device Y plate. Bikes with a 68mm shell have 3 spacers and 73mm shells have 1 spacer to replace with a chaindevice etc. These dont require much messing abotu to get the right chainline.

If your frame has ISCG or ISCG 05 mounts(3 tabs around the BB shell) then you can just take your drive side crank off and bolt he Y plate straight on to that without any messing about.

Personally i would stay away from cheap copies of a decent chain device...i would look in the second hand market for people selling their old MRPs and look at getting a new bashguard if its badly damaged. I paid £50 second hand for my gamut chain device which retails at £100 brand new :eek:

E13 and MRP are where its at for chain devices.
 
right thanks for the advice on not buying cheap copies..

Chainset Shimano M341 Octalink 44/32/22
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-ES30
Chain HG50
Freewheel Shimano Cassette 11-30 8sp

if you can make head nor tail of that I'd be thankfull :p I just hope its one of the ones you have to take a spacer out for :D

thanks
 
collisster said:
right thanks for the advice on not buying cheap copies..

Chainset Shimano M341 Octalink 44/32/22
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-ES30
Chain HG50
Freewheel Shimano Cassette 11-30 8sp

if you can make head nor tail of that I'd be thankfull :p I just hope its one of the ones you have to take a spacer out for :D

thanks

Its the one where you need a new BB lol.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2337

Thats whats in there justnow,you need to get the size of your other one(its probably a 68mm shell) but get an E type version....im not exactly sure if you need to buy a longer axle one though but maybe one of the other guys could help me out there.
 
so replacement is inevitable. so I need a minimum of a 68mm shelled BB with three spacers.. I take out one to fit the boomerang on ?
could I do all of this myself. how much will the cost of the tools come to? this is working out more complicated than I thought :( :(
 
collisster said:
so replacement is inevitable. so I need a minimum of a 68mm shelled BB with three spacers.. I take out one to fit the boomerang on ?
could I do all of this myself. how much will the cost of the tools come to? this is working out more complicated than I thought :( :(

If you are just gonna replace the bottom bracket to fit the chain device then all you need to do is buy the same bottom bracket size(it tells you on it) but in Etype......im not sure if you need to buy one with a slightly longer axle to take into account the extra width.

If you replace the whole crankset with a hollowtech 2 system(the one which uses spacers) then you just buy the crankset......and it comes with 3 spacers and you fit how many you need etc.

First you need a 8mm hex key to take th crank bolts out.
Then one of these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3614
(either that or one of the ones that come with two fitments so it fits isis and square taper)

then you need one of these to take the bb out and in.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=995

Quite expensive really......but if your up for some travelling any local halfords would let you borrow the tools for a second or do it for you on the spot(depending who serves you of course). This is only for taking stuff off though...might be a bit harder trying to get them to fit stuff. :rolleyes:


Having the tools is great. I have all the tools i need to take off any mainstream BB and crankset,freewheel and cassete tools.....ok i'll stop. :o
 
I though you just needed an allen key for the crank :confused: but there doesn't seem to be much to that BB tool, isn't there any lever involved? I was imagining something looking like a fangaled screwdriver :(
 
collisster said:
I though you just needed an allen key for the crank :confused: but there doesn't seem to be much to that BB tool, isn't there any lever involved? I was imagining something looking like a fangaled screwdriver :(

You need an allen key to take off the bolt that holds the crank on.....some cranks come with self extracting bolts(a bolt screws in then a cap is screwed into the crank arm itself - not the bb axle like the bolt is) which pull the crank off when you undo the bolt. I doubt you have those so after you take the bolt out you need to screw the crank extractor into the crank which then pulls if off the BB spine(it is a tight fit believe me).

Most BB tools require an adjustable spanner or 1/2 drive ratchet to give you the torque needed to take it out. That ones needs a big spanner as far as i know....it just sits against the BB and the splines match up.(i took the old one out my frame using mole grips but it was fubar and i was putting it in the bin anyway)

You wouldnt be looking at more than £15-20 for getting a bikeshop to do the swap for you....if you get them to order the BB in for you aswell then it might even be cheaper.
 
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monkeypants said:
Jonny noooooooooo!

Watch your language, that's three posts now. The last one alone will net you a holiday :(

I'll uh....have a look for them. Cheers pal.

Think thats them all fixed. :o Its clear that the mods dont come in this thread.....and we arent like the freaks in other subforums that RTM posts with swearies(i hope so anyway).
 
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thanks johnny.. so I could just walk into a bikeshop with my bike and a bb and ask them to fit it.. I'm guessing halfords would be cheaper but they probably have shoddy workmanship :p I may buy the tools myself .. I still dont understand this extractor thing tho :confused: :confused: but I now get how the bb remover works.. I will need an octalink one then to match splines up on the tool
and bb ? how hard is it to do the whole job?

thanks
 
collisster said:
thanks johnny.. so I could just walk into a bikeshop with my bike and a bb and ask them to fit it.. I'm guessing halfords would be cheaper but they probably have shoddy workmanship :p I may buy the tools myself .. I still dont understand this extractor thing tho :confused: :confused: but I now get how the bb remover works.. I will need an octalink one then to match splines up on the tool
and bb ? how hard is it to do the whole job?

thanks

What? you calling my workmanship shoddy??? eh? :o (i work there)


It would be as simple as that but:
A.Repairs are never a priority for halfords,they dont make a lot of money so they only get done say...one MAYBE two days a week.
B.There is always a long wait,our store is currently into the 3rd week of June i think.

The job is fairly easy,taking the bolts out is self explanitry.

Taking the crank arms off using the tool is easy. You screw one section into the thread of the crank arm(they are there if you have a look) then you screw another piece through the first piece until it hits the BB axle...this pushes the first piece you screwed in outwards hence pulling the crank arm off.

If you have the tool + an adjustable spanner its just a matter of putting the tool on and turning each cup forward(both cups TIGHTEN to the rear of the bike)....the reverse for putting the new BB in(grease it up as it makes life easier should you need to remove it). The main unit goes in first at the driveside with the chain device backplate in place now,in all the way.....then you put in the nondriveside cup till its tight against the main unit.

The other part is taking the chainring bolts out to remove the large outside chainring and fitting the bash guard.

I take it you know you will only have either one ring with a chain device or you buy a chain device that works with two chainrings(i think this should still fit alright with no problems).
 
thanks for explaining johnny.. which halfords do you work in? the one here is shoddy the guy said to me nahh mate u'll have to pay for that downstairs because they dont trust me with the money up here... who employed him? jeez.. I think I'll get the tools and give it a go myself. I'll be using a device that accepts the middle ring so I'm taking off the outer and inner..

thanks

I assume you use the same tools to wack it back together? :confused:
 
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collisster said:
thanks for explaining johnny.. which halfords do you work in? the one here is shoddy the guy said to me nahh mate u'll have to pay for that downstairs because they dont trust me with the money up here... who employed him? jeez.. I think I'll get the tools and give it a go myself. I'll be using a device that accepts the middle ring so I'm taking off the outer and inner..

thanks


Haha....thats just patter mate. People always come to the cycles desk and want to pay for stuff. They look a bit mythed when you tell them you dont have a till and saying they dont trust us monkeys with money usually makes them laugh.

I work for the one at my location...which is fairly decent but i have to work alongside 2 or 3 numpties.

If your a member on biking forums you could ask in the technical section about the axle length....i might just go do it myself to be sure.
 
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