Big Bike Thread

Jonny ///M · 25 Jan 2007 at 01:28

Phnom_Penh said:
lacing and truing can be a bit of a dark horse (I think that's the right term lol). Sometimes it can take less than an hour, although often it takes all bloody day :\.

Bit like fixing a chain.............what is usually a 2 minute job took me half an hour because of the stupid ******* peice of **** shimano chain my brother put on his bike :mad:

I could lace a wheel up and try and true it but i know it would be crap so i get the pros to do that.

Also fitted a floating 225mm disk to my mates bike today :eek:

the hugeness.....omg.

Think i just about bought some 2005 boxxer races for £250 odd. Now to get a frame

"andy" · 25 Jan 2007 at 01:49

truing is a bit of nightmare , its actually easier to build a wheel from scratch imo :eek:

i dont have the patience to sit correcting my mangled rim lol , however i actually find lacing and building a wheel pretty therputic ( untill a spoke snaps and goes pinging past your ear :eek:

)

building a wheel for DH use (strong rim) is fairly easy if you use a good guide, takes about an hour

however...

building a lightweight Xc wheel .... noooo no no argh its like trying to use cheese as a hammer , makes me mad ! the tinyest bit out with the spokes and the rim will bend like mad

, never again it took me a day too finlly get it true

weescott · 25 Jan 2007 at 13:13

Jonny ///M said:
Also fitted a floating 225mm disk to my mates bike today the hugeness.....omg.

passé now

There was a test done in a german bike mag (last month IIRC) that found 220mm rotors provided NO extra power over a 200mm disc. But meh...my willy still looks bigger!

Jonny ///M said:
Think i just about bought some 2005 boxxer races for £250 odd.

Are they the forks that suck out of the box and need tuned to be any good?

chucky · 25 Jan 2007 at 17:12

I posted a pic of my new rock lobster up a few days ago.

Its now time for some new forks for it.

What we all think, im considering either pikes, or goin for domains.

Or is there any other that i should consider?

benjo plz. · 25 Jan 2007 at 19:07

andy8271 said:
truing is a bit of nightmare , its actually easier to build a wheel from scratch imo

Don't you true the wheel after building it :\.

weescott said:
passé now

You're only ****ed off because his is bigger than yours

.

SDK^ · 25 Jan 2007 at 19:27

Large discs are nothing special these days; even my stock specialized comes with 203mm fitted

Big Chris · 25 Jan 2007 at 19:33

I can think of better things to willy wave about than rotor diamaters, such as the size of my willy.

Jonny ///M · 25 Jan 2007 at 20:34

lol he needs that size since he has manitou post mount forks and a 200mm hope caliper.....go figure. How can you possibly say it has ZERO increase in power over a 200mm disk? Have car makers been getting it wrong? :confused:

Weescott you seem to hate everything i comment on.....whats your beef :rolleyes:

The bike after taking it round strathclyde park river route.

robmiller · 25 Jan 2007 at 20:40

Help please

My front derailleur is cocked; it won't change into either first or third, it just sits in second. If I change up or down on the shifter the chain just grinds against the derailleur in the respective direction :/

I need to adjust it, I guess, but I've been playing around with it for a while and nothing seems to work. I've tried rotating the whole derailleur, moving the whole derailleur up and down, adjusting the little tilty bit attached to the cable (I'm so technical) but nothing seems to work.

Help please! I'll post pics if you need any

Jonny ///M · 25 Jan 2007 at 20:57

Line the mech up with the line of the chain while on the bottom cog at the front.

Make sure the mech is just above the furthest away cog but not so close it hits it when shifting.

Undo the cable and adjust the L screw on the mech so that the chain is in the middle of the mech and you get minimal rubbing when going from 1st through to 8/9th gear.

Bolt the cable back on and shift up,if it doesnt go into the second cog unscrew the asjuster at the shifter end of the cable until it shifts up and down fine.

Shift to the third cog and screw the H screw in so that you cant shift too far past the third cog.

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

robmiller · 25 Jan 2007 at 21:01

What are the L and H screws and which bit should line up with the chain

You're dealing with an utter remedial here, heh.

Edit: just saw your edit, I'll have a read of the link—cheers.

weescott · 25 Jan 2007 at 21:07

Jonny ///M said:
How can you possibly say it has ZERO increase in power over a 200mm disk? Have car makers been getting it wrong?
http://img49.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250120070036mv.jpg

I didn't say that at all, a German Bike mag did. A 220mm disc will still be more resistant to fade and better suited to Alpine decents. Car disc brakes are in a different league so you cant compare them to bicycle disc brakes.

Jonny ///M said:
Weescott you seem to hate everything i comment on.....whats your beef
http://img49.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250120070036mv.jpg

I don't hate everything or anything you comment on, I have a different opinion thats all. You must be reading my posts the wrong way.

Jonny ///M · 25 Jan 2007 at 21:18

weescott said:
I didn't say that at all, a German Bike mag did. A 220mm disc will still be more resistant to fade and better suited to Alpine decents. Car disc brakes are in a different league so you cant compare them to bicycle disc brakes.

I don't hate everything or anything you comment on, I have a different opinion thats all. You must be reading my posts the wrong way.

Well thats the whole point is it not? Less fade = more brake power while on the limit.

I'll be sticking to my "normal" 203mm saint rotors though. Not the snappy snappy hope floaters.

robmiller · 25 Jan 2007 at 22:09

Hmm. I got it to shift 1 -> 2 -> 3 -> 2 but it still doesn't want to shift 2 -> 1. It'll do for now (I only really use 2 and 3 to get to lectures, it's pretty flat).

Can you see anything wrong from these pics?

Jonny ///M · 25 Jan 2007 at 22:24

The third pic,it looks like the mech is too far towards the third ring.

Screw the adjuster at the shifter back in a bit.

robmiller · 25 Jan 2007 at 22:51

Jonny ///M said:
The third pic,it looks like the mech is too far towards the third ring.

Screw the adjuster at the shifter back in a bit.

Didn't go far enough just from adjusting the thingie at the shifter. I take it I have to push the thing the cable attaches to (in the direction it would go if I was downshifting), pull the cable tight, then tighten the allen screw?

Cheers for your help :cool:

Jonny ///M · 25 Jan 2007 at 23:53

robmiller said:
Didn't go far enough just from adjusting the thingie at the shifter. I take it I have to push the thing the cable attaches to (in the direction it would go if I was downshifting), pull the cable tight, then tighten the allen screw?

Cheers for your help

Sounds about right.....shift down to the 1st cog...put the chain on the first cog by hand.....undo the cable at the mech.....does the mech sit with the chain in the middle of it?

robmiller · 26 Jan 2007 at 00:04

Jonny ///M said:
Sounds about right.....shift down to the 1st cog...put the chain on the first cog by hand.....undo the cable at the mech.....does the mech sit with the chain in the middle of it?

That's what I did, I guess I either knocked it when tightening it back up or just misaligned it in the first place. I'll have another go tomorrow, cheers

weescott · 26 Jan 2007 at 11:40

Jonny ///M said:
Well thats the whole point is it not? Less fade = more brake power while on the limit.

I'll be sticking to my "normal" 203mm saint rotors though. Not the snappy snappy hope floaters.

What the mag is saying is there is an optimal size of rotor, then bigger rotors become more consistant in extreme conditions (less prone to overheat / fade) but not more powerfull. You can't say a Hope floating rotor has "more power while on the limit" than a standard rotor of the same size. It's just less likely to suffer from fade and loose power.

What do you mean by "snappy snappy hope floaters"?

Jonny ///M · 26 Jan 2007 at 12:18

weescott said:
What the mag is saying is there is an optimal size of rotor, then bigger rotors become more consistant in extreme conditions (less prone to overheat / fade) but not more powerfull. You can't say a Hope floating rotor has "more power while on the limit" than a standard rotor of the same size. It's just less likely to suffer from fade and loose power.

What do you mean by "snappy snappy hope floaters"?

Thats what im getting at with the "more power"....if you can have power when you didnt have power before you have more power...i get what you mean though.

I just saw a few snapped floating rotors,thats all.