BMW and M Power Owners

Looking over my receipt they have provided a couple of advisory comments about noise coming from engine, likely water pump bearings, and misfire when cold likely 2x coils replacement.

The engine is noisey in a bad way, especially at idle but my dad advised 'its a big old engine, it's going to make a racket at idle with the bonnet up' when I first got it. Is loud water pump bearings a sign the pump is about to give up?

With the misfire, this also contributes to a) loud idling when cold and b vibrations (almost shaking) at cold idle. Is this an urgent problem?
 
They are indeed a relatively noisy engine if you flip the bonnet up - but it does depend on exactly what kind of noise you're hearing!

Coils are very cheap so you could pull them one by one and check for obvious damage. If you have a misfire they're definitely a potential but in my experience coils tend to present a very obvious mis rather than any kind of hesitation so again it depends on exactly what's going on. When its shaking at idle where is it actually settling to in terms of rpm? Check all the intake side is bolted together properly and that the maf is actually plugged in.

If the pump is noisy change it, not expensive and not difficult so just sort it out tbh
 
Thanks for the advice. If I recorded a video of a cold start up, would it help diagnose?

Immediately after ignition the engine sites at about 1000rpm and vibrates the most. This gradually sinks to about 600-700rpm and the vibration lessens. After the engine has warmed up the vibration settles down to normal not really noticable levels.

I think I might have to get my Haynes from my parents house :( !
 
Nah not unless its sounding absolutely horrible. By all means try but phones don't tend to pick up odd noises.

If its vibrating even when its sitting at cold idle speed then the coils are definitely worth a check. Check the maf and give it a clean and throughly check air hoses and intake too. You could try unplugging it then seeing if the same issue occurs
 
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Now it will ride and handle like a 5 Series :)
 
almoststew1990 said:
The engine is noisey in a bad way, especially at idle but my dad advised 'its a big old engine, it's going to make a racket at idle with the bonnet up' when I first got it. Is loud water pump bearings a sign the pump is about to give up?
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Is it a loud clacking sound coming from the right hand side of the engine? If so it could be the DISA valve. The pin holding the flap in tends to work lose over time, and if left to its own devices can potentially fall into the engine and cause big issues (very rare though, never actually heard of it happening). Although to completely take the risk away, i6 automotive do a good kit with a different style pin for £60 that works a treat and is easy to fit :)
 
[TW]Fox;27075075 said:
IMAG2603_zps0bddd8eb.jpg


Now it will ride and handle like a 5 Series :)
Click to expand...

Good tyre for the car. Don't have the same performance (wet or dry, don't give a stuff what Evo or any magazine says as the Mich's) but a MUCH better proposition for the F10. Much quieter, much smoother and simply better.
 
New tyres and new alloys?? How much did that little combo set you back? :/

Either way, rubbish tyres. Should have got Zhonghanglonglinglol ones - I heard they're made by Goodyear and only cost 47p per corner. Mug.

almoststew1990 said:
Thanks for the advice. If I recorded a video of a cold start up, would it help diagnose?

Immediately after ignition the engine sites at about 1000rpm and vibrates the most. This gradually sinks to about 600-700rpm and the vibration lessens. After the engine has warmed up the vibration settles down to normal not really noticable levels.

I think I might have to get my Haynes from my parents house :( !
Click to expand...

To be honest, these engines aren't complicated. And yes, it is urgent to fix it. If it is indeed your coilpacks, this is pretty much the cheapest way to make a car which sounds and feels horrible, turn into a car that is smooth and quiet in no time at all.

Job 1: Full service, including approved oil, all filters (inc fuel filter) and spark plugs. If this does not help...
2: Take the airbox out, clean the MAF and idle control valve and inspect the piping for splits (mine had two massive splits in it). If this does not help...
3: Look to replace coilpacks and/or distributor cap.
4. VANOS issues?
5: If you have got this far and still haven't cured it with the above steps - i will be surprised. The above would take about 3 hours tops.
 
Christ this car is turning out to be a bit of a lemon :(

The service-o-meter says I have 9000 miles (12k when I purchased) to go, so the service (level 1) can't have been carried out that long ago, and I assume the oil and filter were changed at that time? I have to top up the oil (1L) every 650 miles because of the CCV is leaking, so the oil stays pretty fresh. Will spark plugs have been done at the last Level 1 service?

I'm an absolute mechanical novice, so are those things do able by myself with my workshop manual?
 
almoststew1990 said:
Christ this car is turning out to be a bit of a lemon :(

The service-o-meter says I have 9000 miles (12k when I purchased) to go, so the service (level 1) can't have been carried out that long ago, and I assume the oil and filter were changed at that time? I have to top up the oil (1L) every 650 miles because of the CCV is leaking, so the oil stays pretty fresh. Will spark plugs have been done at the last Level 1 service?

I'm an absolute mechanical novice, so are those things do able by myself with my workshop manual?
Click to expand...

650 is good! Mine needs topping up every 500! Need to check for any leaks though...
 
First drive for the sake of it in quite some time.

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It's now filthy, which is annoying as I only washed it yesterday... Oh well!
 
Still probably my favourite shape that one. Forgive my noobness but what's the cross Keys symbol on the back? Looks like an alfa badge forms the top half!
 
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