BMW and M Power Owners

The first thing you need to understand is that 'low deposit' doesn't make a deal good or bad, it just changes the payment profile.

IMHO if the difference between a £359 and a £2500 deposit is a deal breaker than a brand new 3 Series probably isn't the right choice anyway - if you'd have taken that despite the 'low deposit' and 'only 359 quid a month' you would have paid £17,000 to drive a bottom of the range 3 Series for 4 years.

Whichever way you cut it, that feels like a crap deal.
 
£4.3k to drive around in a brand new BMW doesn't seem too bad too me?

It should seem bad to you, because it is.

The actual cost of buying a new 320i M Sport through a broker is £24181. Yes - thats it - £24k. For a brand new 320i M Sport.

After 4 years, it'd be worth about £12k.

So the real cost of the car over 4 years is £12k, or £3k a year. Anything above that is simply the cost of whatever 'deal' you have to have in order to actually get the cash together to have the car.

Its not like you can get one for £200 a month. Think you'd have a heart if you saw how much a new TT costs monthly/over the term.

Given that they start at £25k for a 2.0 TFSI S-Tronic S-Line (plus options on top) at a sensible discounted price and the depreciation on them is fairly low, then yes I'd have a heart attack if I saw how much people had convinced themselves was reasonable to spend every month on driving a TT because all that mattered to them was making sure the monthly payments were 'affordable' whilst giving no regard whatsoever to how much the deal actually cost them in total.

Where did you get £4.3k from?

359 * 12 = 4300?
 
[TW]Fox;29354313 said:
Given that they start at £25k for a 2.0 TFSI S-Tronic S-Line (plus options on top) at a sensible discounted price and the depreciation on them is fairly low, then yes I'd have a heart attack if I saw how much people had convinced themselves was reasonable to spend every month on driving a TT because all that mattered to them was making sure the monthly payments were 'affordable' whilst giving no regard whatsoever to how much the deal actually cost them in total.

Wait, the TT is a lease? Or is it some PCP deal?
 
He's talking about how much a new TT costs over a term, so it's a hypothetical PCP example I'd imagine.

Assuming a residual of about £14k the 'right' monthly price for a TT, including a bit for the cost of capital, would be about 280 a month assuming a £2k deposit.

No idea how that compares to the price Blackhawk had in mind when he said I'd have a heart attack :p
 
Your clunking will be backlash from the diff or worn diff bushes, I suspect the car is around 80-100k miles? If so the m-differential being clutch pack based is passed it best after 60k miles and can become clunky at lower speeds, emphasised more if an SMG car. One of those things to put up with ideally as a full diff rebuild will cost around £250-£400 and mean taking car off the road. Differential bushes cost a lot less and easy to do.

Different beast of course but a clunking on my old e46 turned out to be a torn rear floor, the diff carrier was moving when under load hence the clunk, I'd get the floor checked out prior to purchase.
 
[TW]Fox;29354349 said:
He's talking about how much a new TT costs over a term, so it's a hypothetical PCP example I'd imagine.

Assuming a residual of about £14k the 'right' monthly price for a TT, including a bit for the cost of capital, would be about 280 a month assuming a £2k deposit.

No idea how that compares to the price Blackhawk had in mind when he said I'd have a heart attack :p

I think his is on a PCP so the heart attach was probably in reference to "if I told you how much I was paying"
 
I have a 3k deposit + trade in to play around with. I've pinged off a few inquiries for estates ranging from Mazda 6, Skoda Superb, Audi A4 and the 3 series. Looking at the prices i'm being given as a guide from BoradSpeed, I'm now shocked I was even considering some of the other 'deals' i've seen on main sites.

Probably all seems normal to a lot of you, but for me this was sort of eye opening :)
 
A question regarding BroadSpeed. One of the estates I am looking at has a saving of 4.5k on list price. The main dealers site currently has the same car on offer with PCP and has a £2500 deposit contribution. Am I likely to still get a deposit contribution from the dealer even when I have been introduced to them using BroadSpeed? Or am I really only going to save £2k realistically.

Read the FAQ on Broadspeed...their discounts INCLUDE that of any PCP deals with the dealer.

My parents were looking at a Mokka and checking prices on Broadspeed came in at exactly the same price of the deal mum and dad were given from the dealer once you take deposit contibutions etc all into consideration.
 
Due to likely changing jobs and reducing my mileage significantly I am in the early stages of looking at changing my car.

Top of the list currently is the BMW M5 as it ticks all the boxes in terms of both practicality, comfort and performance. They also seem to represent very good value when compared to the likes of the S6/RS6/petrol 5 series and my hope is I can buy one at around £32k, and it still be worth £25k in 2 years based on 10 to 15k per annum.

Is there anything in particular I should be considering in terms of the M5, are there any must have options and is the depreciation curve realistic? I had a brief test drive last weekend and was extremely impressed.

Currently my list is:
- 2011 to 2013 F10
- <60k miles / FSH so I can take out the BMW warranty
- Split folding rear seats
- M Multi-function front seats

- BMW Apps interface and Internet
 
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Different beast of course but a clunking on my old e46 turned out to be a torn rear floor, the diff carrier was moving when under load hence the clunk, I'd get the floor checked out prior to purchase.

Good point the M3's suffer from it quite badly most have cracks around 100k miles and a good MOT station will fail the car on this, but not all MOT stations will spot it or even think of checking.
 
[TW]Fox;29354517 said:
Internet is total trash and borderline unusable on the models you are looking at. It really shouldn't be on your list of requirements.

Cheers. Did it improve in the later 5 series or is it pretty much a waste of time on all M5 / 5 series?
 
Once they got rid of the 2.5g connection that made it so slow it was a waste of time it became more usable but it's still just a clunky web browser. Its also a subscription service and you can actually add it to the later cars that don't have it for an extra 95 quid a year through BMW.

The internet option is purely a web browser. All the other connected and online functionality is separate and all cars with an active connected drive subscription have them.
 
Looks clean, not keen on the rear spoiler and super skinny tyres but it looks a good example.

If history has no receipts for coil packs just change them all, normally eurocarparts or carparts4less with discount codes are very reasonable on coil packs, think I changed all six on mine for around £110. Also if it uses any oil change the air oil seperator again about £25 and easy to sort. :)

Your clunking will be backlash from the diff or worn diff bushes, I suspect the car is around 80-100k miles? If so the m-differential being clutch pack based is passed it best after 60k miles and can become clunky at lower speeds, emphasised more if an SMG car. One of those things to put up with ideally as a full diff rebuild will cost around £250-£400 and mean taking car off the road. Differential bushes cost a lot less and easy to do.

Enjoy the car, still one of the best M engines ever, I still love taking mine out and enjoying the S54 at full chat and some S6 gear shifts. :D

Different beast of course but a clunking on my old e46 turned out to be a torn rear floor, the diff carrier was moving when under load hence the clunk, I'd get the floor checked out prior to purchase.

Good point the M3's suffer from it quite badly most have cracks around 100k miles and a good MOT station will fail the car on this, but not all MOT stations will spot it or even think of checking.

Thanks! The floor was replaced / reinforced and resin injected by main dealer 12K Miles ago (£4k Total), of all the 3 cars I have driven, this only has a very tiny clunk when in reverse, it's silent otherwise..

I'm just going over things carefully now and I'm very fussy, something I hope owning an M3 will temper, because the immediate thing I noticed driving a few (all just over 80K Miles) and reading a lot of forums is that whilst they can be quite civilized and refined in some ways, they all seemed to be a little raw in many ways, but a lot of the minor quibbles do seem to be almost normal behavior.

After I've sorted out the geo/tracking/see if the lowering springs are not buggering anything up, I'll hopefully have the diagnostics lead/software so I can check out if it's complaining about anything, get anything easy sorted, then get it in to the garage for a thorough going over to see what else might need doing later on..

Overall the only niggly point I had with all 3 cars is that I think the gearboxes are for the most part very smooth and slick but I do know synchro wear is a feature as mileage creeps up and occasionally it can feel a bit notchy if you don't time the clutch just right since the CDV seems to introduce a bit of lag which I think you 'learn' over time.. (Not a problem for SMG!) My previous car, a Mazda CX-5, reknown for having a smooth mazda box was actually exactly the same, it has a dampener on the clutch and funnily was very notchy first to second, I had it in the dealers to check and only gave in and accepted it when I drove another..

The good news is, getting it for £8K with the boot floor/quiet vanos etc, I have £4K I've shoved in the bank for anything drastic.. clutch/2nd hand gearbox/HGF or the like..

One thing that has surprised me is that many aspects of ownership are fairly cheap..
The insurance for an old git like me is under £300 and only £60 more than my mazda..
Annual road tax is £290
Tyres are £120-£160 rear, £100-£140 front which is not ridiculous. Speaking of which, the tyres on there are 'budget'.. will be changing them at some point.
Even services are ridiculous.. oil services are between £170 and £220, Inspection I is circa £450-500 and Inspection II is circa £700 but that's every 50-60K Miles..
 
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Thanks! The floor was replaced / reinforced and resin injected by main dealer 12K Miles ago (£4k Total), of all the 3 cars I have driven, this only has a very tiny clunk when in reverse, it's silent otherwise..

I'm just going over things carefully now and I'm very fussy, something I hope owning an M3 will temper, because the immediate thing I noticed driving a few (all just over 80K Miles) and reading a lot of forums is that whilst they can be quite civilized and refined in some ways, they all seemed to be a little raw in many ways, but a lot of the minor quibbles do seem to be almost normal behavior.

After I've sorted out the geo/tracking/see if the lowering springs are not buggering anything up, I'll hopefully have the diagnostics lead/software so I can check out if it's complaining about anything, get anything easy sorted, then get it in to the garage for a thorough going over to see what else might need doing later on..

Overall the only niggly point I had with all 3 cars is that I think the gearboxes are for the most part very smooth and slick but I do know synchro wear is a feature as mileage creeps up and occasionally it can feel a bit notchy if you don't time the clutch just right since the CDV seems to introduce a bit of lag which I think you 'learn' over time.. (Not a problem for SMG!) My previous car, a Mazda CX-5, reknown for having a smooth mazda box was actually exactly the same, it has a dampener on the clutch and funnily was very notchy first to second, I had it in the dealers to check and only gave in and accepted it when I drove another..

The good news is, getting it for £8K with the boot floor/quiet vanos etc, I have £4K I've shoved in the bank for anything drastic.. clutch/2nd hand gearbox/HGF or the like..

One thing that has surprised me is that many aspects of ownership are fairly cheap..
The insurance for an old git like me is under £300 and only £60 more than my mazda..
Annual road tax is £290
Tyres are £120-£160 rear, £100-£140 front which is not ridiculous. Speaking of which, the tyres on there are 'budget'.. will be changing them at some point.
Even services are ridiculous.. oil services are between £170 and £220, Inspection I is circa £450-500 and Inspection II is circa £700 but that's every 50-60K Miles..


Clunk in reverse is normal, its just driveline shunt. :)

Good news on boot floor and good it was injected, makes it much stronger, I had mine welded, plated and injected. :)

Tyre wise MPSS all day long on an M3 and if your wheels are correct width for it go 235 front and 265 rear, if not then go stock M3 size which I think is 225 front and 255 rear, but read the manual shall be in there.

4k will cover you for anything, engines can be picked up for around 1k in running order, gearboxes for about £400 so your fund will cover it.

Get 4 MPSS and an alignment will drive superb and enjoy it.

All I would advice if its on lowering springs and still on stock dampers, those dampers will be knackered now. The guy I got mine from put lowering springs on stock dampers and in short the dampers were doing little to nothing as they were shot.

I'd either return it to stock suspension, or buy some used KW V2/V3 or Ohlins for it as they will ride much better than just lowering springs on stock dampers, would cost you around £750-£1000 for a set of used KW V2/V3's and great thing is KW are great for support. :)

Servicing is expensive due to INSP 1/2 cost but that is because I am comparing to a Mustang that is £100 to service average once per year. :D
 
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