Caporegime
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- 13 Nov 2006
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Are you going to use it as a track car? Or were normal bushes too expensive?
cheap M3, whats the worst..
- Thread starter Matt82
- Start date
i used those bushes are they came with the car and were fitted a few months before i bought it.
spotted a major problem though.
see the subframe mount studs on my car are in the rear holes, i think theyre supposed to be in the FRONT holes
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/suspension/susp_e36_rsubframe_2_lg.jpg
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/suspension/susp_e36_rsubframe_4_lg.jpg
etc
so still correcting work carried out by idiots.
going to be fun trying to correct that tomorrow
spotted a major problem though.
see the subframe mount studs on my car are in the rear holes, i think theyre supposed to be in the FRONT holes
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/suspension/susp_e36_rsubframe_2_lg.jpg
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/suspension/susp_e36_rsubframe_4_lg.jpg
etc
so still correcting work carried out by idiots.
going to be fun trying to correct that tomorrow
Caporegime
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My point was that won't they be a bit too stiff unless you're going on track.
I changed the subframe bushes on my car and whilst it's not super stiff it was pretty noticeable and I'm not sure I'd want it like that for a car that I was going to use every day.
I can't quite see what you're going to be correcting, are you saying that someone took out/moved the locating studs? :\
I changed the subframe bushes on my car and whilst it's not super stiff it was pretty noticeable and I'm not sure I'd want it like that for a car that I was going to use every day.
I can't quite see what you're going to be correcting, are you saying that someone took out/moved the locating studs? :\
must have been when the subframe bushes first went in. the studs should be in the front holes. stuff like that makes me worry about what the hell else i might be contending with.
it shuoldnt be TOO hard to correct though
as for subframe bushes, theyre a damn sight easier to fit than originals so that was a big part of the decission too. it wont be an everyday car at all. if it is noticably bad then itll only be easier to change next time as ive learned a lot in just this job
it shuoldnt be TOO hard to correct though
as for subframe bushes, theyre a damn sight easier to fit than originals so that was a big part of the decission too. it wont be an everyday car at all. if it is noticably bad then itll only be easier to change next time as ive learned a lot in just this job
Caporegime
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Oh, I clicked the links and I see what you mean now...
Edit - wait, it looks like one of the pics has been flipped, they're not identical, that would explain why the studs are different.
Edit - wait, it looks like one of the pics has been flipped, they're not identical, that would explain why the studs are different.
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it shuold be two studs up front secured by a nut each and then a pair of long bolts at the rear
the links/pics should be the clearest.
ive got a feeling it would be best to have two pairs of hands to do this, ideally id want someone to balance the subframe and diff whilst its supported on the jack
the links/pics should be the clearest.
ive got a feeling it would be best to have two pairs of hands to do this, ideally id want someone to balance the subframe and diff whilst its supported on the jack
Caporegime
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I used 2 jacks and numerous pieces of wood to help balance it.
Did you see my edit - those pics aren't taken from the same side.
Did you see my edit - those pics aren't taken from the same side.
Caporegime
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It beggars belief why someone would do that. Bizarre! 
the whole experience has been gob smacking. i bought it at bottom of the barrel price, the two previous buyers paid more, but i cant see any logic in paying money for a "performance" car and maintaining it as if it were a pile of junk. the engine/suspension etc are what make an M3 an M3
this car had m3 evo top mounts on the wrong, with plain m3 arms and bushes, which left it with positive camber, so this isnt just limited to the rear.
this is why it feels like a restoration to me
this car had m3 evo top mounts on the wrong, with plain m3 arms and bushes, which left it with positive camber, so this isnt just limited to the rear.
this is why it feels like a restoration to me
Caporegime
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This is why I was wondering why you were changing bushes for non OEM items - but then I don't know if this is a common mod/improvement on the M3 now that it is aging.
Why are you not surprised that a cheap M3 has been treated poorly? It is exactly what it says on the tin, a cheap M3, and they're normally cheap for a reason, as you've found out.
Given the time and money, I'd have preferred to wait until I found a better one. Can't be arsed to change bushes etc anymore.
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See if you can find one with all new components in it and then well see what the price is
The way I see it is that after all these years the vast majority will be in a similar state. This way I know mine is full of good bits. Once I got it on the road, for example, mine has a brand new cooling system practically too.
Not sure it was worth the effort as I don't seem to find the time nowadays for car stuff like I used to, but once its on the road that could all change.
The way I see it is that after all these years the vast majority will be in a similar state. This way I know mine is full of good bits. Once I got it on the road, for example, mine has a brand new cooling system practically too.
Not sure it was worth the effort as I don't seem to find the time nowadays for car stuff like I used to, but once its on the road that could all change.
I think 20mins is what I'd read on some American board as being good.
What do you have for camber? I'm thinking 2deg. From should be about 2.5 with the parts on mine.
Toe in at the front should make it turn in better too I'd think. I'm interested to see what front castor will be given on car is a bit of a mash up
Camber F -2'30" R -1'40". To get a good balance in these you need a good amount more static camber in the front than rear. Front toe-in will make it worse but feel free to prove me wrong.
The subframe studs should definitely be on the front. shoes and I changed the rear subframe out of my car yesterday, finished up the damn thing at 2am.
12.5 hours to..
Remove exhaust
disconnect prop and drive shafts
drop diff + drain oil
disconnect handbrake and service brakes
try and fail to drop subframe
remove trailing arms, drop subframe easily
install new subframe
install diff
remove diff again, fix busted thread in the new subframe
wrestle diff back in (how on earth did you do this alone????)
install trailing arms, handbrake cables, brake lines + calipers
install new rear discs + set handbrake
replace brake fluid
fill up diff oil
wheels on
hear a chronic banging noise from rear left
rear left wheel, brake caliper and disc back off
find h/brake actuator thingy is not latched onto the bottom shoe and wheel bolts are fouling on it
strip and rebuild h/brake assy properly
re-install disc/caliper/wheel
car on the ground
My body is aching today. Still need to finish setting the handbrake, but it drove nicely back home and nothing fell off at all
God knows what's going on with the alignment, but now the turn-in is ridiculously sharp, but when you lean on it it quite quickly turns into a nasty tyre screeching under steer. Can't get it in for alignment until Wednesday morning
it put up a good fight today, but it lost. i didnt get round to starting it and getting it on a ramp to torque up the last bolts, but i did well.
first i had to relocate the studs, it wasnt nice getting the frame down again. i learned that if you get the exhaust's middle hanger bracket down, its a lot easier as the prop shaft can come down further. ##
the studs were inthe wrong location at the back
after what felt like forever i got them into the correct location and used the washers in a different order to spread the loads better
this and this
becomes this
moral support is courtesy of lilly, the next door neighbours cat
i got the trailing arms bolted up properly. after clearing up the dirt under there i can now actually adjust the toe.
springs, arms, dampers and ARB are all on. i even dug out the evo sunflower wheels and bolted them up
all i need to do is refit the bracket for the centre of the exhaust, then i can start it and put it on a ramp (without backbox, should be fun!) so that i can bolt up the bushes in place then its ready for MOT and road use
first i had to relocate the studs, it wasnt nice getting the frame down again. i learned that if you get the exhaust's middle hanger bracket down, its a lot easier as the prop shaft can come down further. ##
the studs were inthe wrong location at the back
after what felt like forever i got them into the correct location and used the washers in a different order to spread the loads better
this and this
becomes this
moral support is courtesy of lilly, the next door neighbours cat
i got the trailing arms bolted up properly. after clearing up the dirt under there i can now actually adjust the toe.
springs, arms, dampers and ARB are all on. i even dug out the evo sunflower wheels and bolted them up
all i need to do is refit the bracket for the centre of the exhaust, then i can start it and put it on a ramp (without backbox, should be fun!) so that i can bolt up the bushes in place then its ready for MOT and road use
Soldato
Dude did you get that diff in alone 
Clarkey and I struggled like buggery to get the diff in and located properly, whilst holding it above our heads.
Good work!
Clarkey and I struggled like buggery to get the diff in and located properly, whilst holding it above our heads.
Good work!
lilly was providing encouragement 
i did the subframe first and then the diff. wasnt fun.
the second time i did subframe and diff together and learned that if you remove the exhaust hanger bracket thing, the prop shaft can come doesn loads more
(that reminds me, still need to do diff flange bolts!
i did the subframe first and then the diff. wasnt fun.
the second time i did subframe and diff together and learned that if you remove the exhaust hanger bracket thing, the prop shaft can come doesn loads more
(that reminds me, still need to do diff flange bolts!
Caporegime
Couldn't you mount it like a gearbox i.e. with the aid of a trolley jack?
would be lovely if you could but the spare wheel well gets in the way. i wasted so much time this weekend trial fitting things. eg i have never rebuilt a set of drum brakes. closest i have been was when i stripped the parts off of the new trailing arms.
i had to trial refit on the disused arms so that i knew i could get it to work
experience, something you learn immediately after you needed it
i had to trial refit on the disused arms so that i knew i could get it to work
experience, something you learn immediately after you needed it