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Associate
alu doors was an option on the evo std on the GT afaik the 3.0 didnt get them, 
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cheap M3, whats the worst..
- Thread starter Matt82
- Start date
Soldato
^Aye, wot he said.
Easyiest way would be to get a magnet and check.
Those early wheels are horrible and being non staggered doesn't help. Like the colour though.
As maccapacca said, it would look best as close to standard as possbile (better with newer style wheels lol). I'd remove the halos too, they look soo bad on an E36.
Easyiest way would be to get a magnet and check.
Those early wheels are horrible and being non staggered doesn't help. Like the colour though.
As maccapacca said, it would look best as close to standard as possbile (better with newer style wheels lol). I'd remove the halos too, they look soo bad on an E36.
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Soldato
According to the bmwmregistry.com
"For the E36 M3 3.0, BMW M specified 235/40ZR17 tires on all four corners. However, each body style was given a unique set of wheels. The coupe (both Euro-spec and U.S.-spec) wears 7.5x17-inch M Double Spoke cast alloy wheels. A lighter forged M Double Spoke version was optional on European-spec models from the start of production, and became optional on U.S.-spec M3s starting in December, 1994. These are always fitted in a staggered configuration, with 7.5x17-inch wheels in front and 8.5x17-inch wheels in back. A polished version of this wheel was standard on the E36 M3 convertible. The sedan has its own wheel design, the M Contour II, also in the staggered (7.5x17-in./8.5x17-in.) configuration. This wheel is also fitted to the U.S.-spec M3 coupe with Luxury Package, though only in the narrower 7.5x17-inch version."
I'm sure I have only ever seen the original style wheels in 7.5x17 front and back.
"For the E36 M3 3.0, BMW M specified 235/40ZR17 tires on all four corners. However, each body style was given a unique set of wheels. The coupe (both Euro-spec and U.S.-spec) wears 7.5x17-inch M Double Spoke cast alloy wheels. A lighter forged M Double Spoke version was optional on European-spec models from the start of production, and became optional on U.S.-spec M3s starting in December, 1994. These are always fitted in a staggered configuration, with 7.5x17-inch wheels in front and 8.5x17-inch wheels in back. A polished version of this wheel was standard on the E36 M3 convertible. The sedan has its own wheel design, the M Contour II, also in the staggered (7.5x17-in./8.5x17-in.) configuration. This wheel is also fitted to the U.S.-spec M3 coupe with Luxury Package, though only in the narrower 7.5x17-inch version."
I'm sure I have only ever seen the original style wheels in 7.5x17 front and back.
Associate
I had the forged wheels on mine and they were definitely staggered 
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DONE
first attempt was not successful. temps were fine, bleeding was simple but it wasnt water tight. there was a leak between the stat housing and water pump (wasnt that suprised as it was a pig to refit)
dismantled it, refitted with a bigger o ring and a bit more care and now the cooling system is done.
engine oil got changed, new plugs, coolant flushed once more.
i fixed the sticky throttle (the "bobble" on the end not seated correctly)
test drive showed how much of a massive difference even just the throttle has made. temps are all perfect, car feels fine engine wise
i really dont like the steering. too light on corner entry, no feedback at all. weak self-centre effect too. makes me think ive got a castor issue
its got the eccentric bushes which i thoguht were EVO only, so i need to research.
either way, the wheel looks positioned correctly in the arch so im a bit baffled and need to research
once the steering is done it will be nice.
H&T down changes at low speed sound EPIC. engine at full throttle sound EPIC. when i sort out the airbox, the whole lot will sound EPIC-ER
idle sounds ace (old water pump was quite worn and noisy)
all in all im really liking it...
i dont have staggered wheels (gutted), evos had them though and i would consider putting evo rear sunflowers on because i love that design wheel
first attempt was not successful. temps were fine, bleeding was simple but it wasnt water tight. there was a leak between the stat housing and water pump (wasnt that suprised as it was a pig to refit)
dismantled it, refitted with a bigger o ring and a bit more care and now the cooling system is done.
engine oil got changed, new plugs, coolant flushed once more.
i fixed the sticky throttle (the "bobble" on the end not seated correctly)
test drive showed how much of a massive difference even just the throttle has made. temps are all perfect, car feels fine engine wise
i really dont like the steering. too light on corner entry, no feedback at all. weak self-centre effect too. makes me think ive got a castor issue
its got the eccentric bushes which i thoguht were EVO only, so i need to research.
either way, the wheel looks positioned correctly in the arch so im a bit baffled and need to research
once the steering is done it will be nice.
H&T down changes at low speed sound EPIC. engine at full throttle sound EPIC. when i sort out the airbox, the whole lot will sound EPIC-ER
idle sounds ace (old water pump was quite worn and noisy)
all in all im really liking it...
i dont have staggered wheels (gutted), evos had them though and i would consider putting evo rear sunflowers on because i love that design wheel
I meant to say it looks a bright shade of red
Soldato
Glad to hear it! Oddly enough I've very similar steering issues with my car at the moment. I'm going to have a look at tightening up the steering box this weekend but I suspect the real issue is suspension adjustment that's all over the place.
I might be mistaken, but I thought this was one of the only really serious issue with the old M3s? They drove very well, but the steering was woefully dead feeling. If that's the case, you may have to do something non-standard to get it better.
turns out there are all sorts of top mounts and bushes that alter the geometry. with my cars "history" i could have a right mix of bit, i think thats the answer to my problem
the titanic-esq steering wheel doesnt help either
the weak self centre is un-nerving though
if it were to get sideways in this state, it would make applying and judging the opposite lock more difficult, so ill be keeping my head down until ive got the steering to my tastei recon those "set back" evo top mounts could be the answer
the weak self centre is un-nerving though
i recon those "set back" evo top mounts could be the answer
Mine was like that when I got it, took it for alignment and it improved considerably. Still a little bit stiff feeling though, combined with a squeaking. Solution to this is to spray tonnes of spray lithium grease into the steering column where it comes through the bulkhead (from engine bay side). Big improvement there.
Still doesn't feel anything like as connected as my colt did, maybe the evo top mounts are a good way to go. Next time I go for geo I'll try a bit of toe out on the front too, I ran loads on the colt, I think that's what give it the 'alive in your hands' feeling.
Btw, eccentric wishbone bushes are not an evo only thing, they come on 328 sport and all M3.
What did you do with the throttle? Mine is kinda stiff, found it really offputting at first but sort of got used to it, would be nice if it were really free.
Find where the cable connects the throttle, disconnect, remote bobble From cable, clean, cable was not sticking itself, but I oiled it anyway. The trick was making sure the bobble is free when you reattach the clip. Felt perfect after.
Ps I'm in Cheshire, BMW is in Essex. I chickened out and took the golf!
Ps I'm in Cheshire, BMW is in Essex. I chickened out and took the golf!
So its got rear parking sensors.
Just had to take it out. On my way home from the north I saw it was -2 and its straight water in the engine block! So I sat and debated and decided I'd rather take it for a drive now and reduce the risk of splitting the block! Straight up to normal temp, took it for a play, logic being get some heat into it any it might survive the night. On the drive the car said it was -3
And the LSD appears to have some limited slip still in it!
Just had to take it out. On my way home from the north I saw it was -2 and its straight water in the engine block! So I sat and debated and decided I'd rather take it for a drive now and reduce the risk of splitting the block! Straight up to normal temp, took it for a play, logic being get some heat into it any it might survive the night. On the drive the car said it was -3
And the LSD appears to have some limited slip still in it!
Caporegime
but good luck!