Circulation problem

Ah glad its sorted, i was going to say the cpu block looked like it was plumbed in wrong when i first saw the pics but who will believe me , but i was lol, inlet is normally in the middle yeh?
 
Have you managed to get the pc to boot yet, as if so you need to use the software to set up a speed profile for the pump, it's usb powered so it is probably just on a low setting.

I should have read all the post's I would have realised you changed pumps, I was just getting frustrated half way through
 
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Actually just got back to the PC after a break, the swap of the cpu in/outlet didnt change anything.
Still pondering what it could be.

All liquid flows through the cycle UNTIL the tubes get filled with liquid then it does nothing.
After switching on the power the pump gives an initial jolt and pushes water for half a second, anyway to give this thing more power?
Anyone have the advanced/ultra version of this pump??
 
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pump is plumed backwards, CPU block is backwards, and i feel the CPU sould be before the GPU's in the loop he heat put out bu the GPUs will hinder the CPU's overclockability
 
Are you still using the Aquacomputer USb pump, if so, I think you'll need to get the pc to load into windows, then you'll have to set the pump speed in the software. It is probably set to a low speed, until you set the speed settings.


Have you got the pc to actually boot yet ? If not I think your better off stripping everything down, and starting from scratch, with the bare minimum, components ( I no you said they worked before starting to water cool ), then slowly add part by part until they are all working. That means a lot of messing about with stripping it all down, putting the stock coolers on the cpu, and the graphics cards, it will be worth it though, as your mind will be at ease that the money spent is safe.

Then you can test all of the water cooling stuff out of the case in a mini loop, just to be sure it's all OK, you can be sure they're OK then. I've always set up the blocks, pump, res and rads this way to get everything dialled in and I no every part is in full working order and leak free.

Then with the parts, fit the fittings to everything before they go into the case, you can get them tighter that way without stuff getting in your way. It makes life a lot easier, and less chance of a leak once they're fully connected. Once connected JUST PLUG IN THE PUMP, if your using a full modular psu, you can connect one end of the cables up, just be sure no power is getting to the component, and use the jumper block that came with the pump, just whilst you fill the loop, then after a leak test period, connect the rest of the cables, and fire that baby up.

If you follow the above steps, at least everything is not in the case, so less faffing about if something is bad, and it will be easily identified.
 
May have found the issue.
Have 3 rads, 1 new 360 1 new 120 and 1 old 360.
While keeping the pump on I opened one of the top valves on the old 360 rad there was water, the other valve I opened next to it on top) and there was barely any water.
Should I clean it with boiled water or get new rad?
 
Do you have a rad with multiple outlets?

It's possible you've piped it up so that you're not getting any flow of water through it, meaning you're keeping air in there.

Stop jumping to assuming the worst outcome! You've probably just done another thing incorrectly. Give us some more, better photos of exactly what is plumbed in where, and we can assist further.

It's almost definite that you've still got trapped air.
 
Confused said:
Do you have a rad with multiple outlets?

It's possible you've piped it up so that you're not getting any flow of water through it, meaning you're keeping air in there.

Stop jumping to assuming the worst outcome! You've probably just done another thing incorrectly. Give us some more, better photos of exactly what is plumbed in where, and we can assist further.

It's almost definite that you've still got trapped air.
Click to expand...

Ordered:Hardware Labs Black ICE Radiator GT Xtreme 360

Will post photos tomorrow as well.
 
Okedoke I have removed the old rad and drained some of the loop (noticed a huge bubble in one part).
Before installing the new rad should I completely drain the loop and get rid of the 120 mm rad?
So essentially 2x 360 will be managing 1 4960x cpu and 3 titan blacks?
 
Like I also said, if they can't, then an additional thin 120 rad isn't going to save the day :)
Those cards run pretty cool, so I don't why 2x360 isn't up to the task.
 
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