I'm getting that xspc kit, can't wait till my birthday now(not long to go
)
same, high five!
well i was thinking a 360 one or an ek kit!
also great build yet again, and when are you getting the mozart done?
CM690 XSPC RASA 750 RS 240
- Thread starter G-Dubs
- Start date
same, high five!
well i was thinking a 360 one or an ek kit!
also great build yet again, and when are you getting the mozart done?
The Rasa really is nice bit of Kit, it just oozes quality at you.
Ah yes "project Modzart"...
Will be starting soon, however Mrs Dubs has insisted that the Bathroom and shower room must come first.
Looking forward to getting started on it though plus I have another old server case i'm hoping to mod the twangers off this summer.
Ah yes "project Modzart"...
Will be starting soon, however Mrs Dubs has insisted that the Bathroom and shower room must come first.
Looking forward to getting started on it though plus I have another old server case i'm hoping to mod the twangers off this summer.
Sorry for the delay with this. beenabit busy at work lately. should be able to get a bit more done this bank hol.
Sorry for the delay in this build. Work has been a bit frantic and i've been having a bit of a contemplate about which direction to take it in.
Bit of activity over the bank hols has seen me start braiding the cables from the front IO and some of the SATAs.
I say some of the cables, as what I'm doing is braiding the bits that can be seen. as there's no point wasting braid on areas that are out of sight.
All the essential items for a good braiding session (yes the Beer is essential, it's thirsty work)
I found a handy dandy way of keeping the braid when not in use
Some of the cables do seem a bit unnecessarily long, in particular the sata cable
Unfortunately having made the decision to braid in black I've discovered my stock of braid is really low as is my heatshrink supply so may have to get some more in.
I've also drained the poor excuse for a black coolant from my loop and have replaced with distilled water. I may stay with clear water, or might at some dye later. (still thinking orange. or maybe white).
Either way a kill coil is on the shopping list.
I got this case from the great guys at removed by G-Dubs, and having worked with it for a few weeks now i've had time to properly appraise it, so thought i'd let you have the benefit of my thoughts so far. I will of course be giving my full report at the end
Build quality.
The panels are well painted, straight with few or no blemishes or marks to the finish.
The chrome is well applied with good thick coverage and again no marks or blemishes.
The case comes well packaged with a good selection of accessories.
Ease of use
The case is very easy to work on, it strips down very quickly allowing all the plastic components to be removed giving full access to all the cable routing at the rear of the case
There are plenty of cable tie retainers on the rear side of the mobo tray area (no need for sticky tape with this case).
Cable routing holes are well placed, although there could perhaps be better access to the top of the mobo area and perhaps into the drive bay areas.
The cable routing holes are spacious and easy to get plugs through howerver they are not covered by grommets.
Air Cooling options
The case comes with 1x140mm front, 1x 140mm top and 1x120 rear fans.
In total there is provision for 1x 140 front or 1x 120 front
2x 120 or 140 bottom
2x 120 or 140 top
1x 120 rear
1x 80 slim rear of mobo.
1x 120 side
Additional fan can be installed in the optional GPU support bracket.
Watercooling options
The case supports maximum
120.2 single thickness rad in the roof.
120.2 single thickness rad in the floor. To mount the floor rad necessitates the removal of the detachable HDD section, leaving 2 HDD bays.
Ok, i'd best hit the removed by G-Dubs shop and get me some bits and bobs sorted.
Bit of activity over the bank hols has seen me start braiding the cables from the front IO and some of the SATAs.
I say some of the cables, as what I'm doing is braiding the bits that can be seen. as there's no point wasting braid on areas that are out of sight.
All the essential items for a good braiding session (yes the Beer is essential, it's thirsty work)
I found a handy dandy way of keeping the braid when not in use
Some of the cables do seem a bit unnecessarily long, in particular the sata cable
Unfortunately having made the decision to braid in black I've discovered my stock of braid is really low as is my heatshrink supply so may have to get some more in.
I've also drained the poor excuse for a black coolant from my loop and have replaced with distilled water. I may stay with clear water, or might at some dye later. (still thinking orange. or maybe white).
Either way a kill coil is on the shopping list.
I got this case from the great guys at removed by G-Dubs, and having worked with it for a few weeks now i've had time to properly appraise it, so thought i'd let you have the benefit of my thoughts so far. I will of course be giving my full report at the end
Build quality.
The panels are well painted, straight with few or no blemishes or marks to the finish.
The chrome is well applied with good thick coverage and again no marks or blemishes.
The case comes well packaged with a good selection of accessories.
Ease of use
The case is very easy to work on, it strips down very quickly allowing all the plastic components to be removed giving full access to all the cable routing at the rear of the case
There are plenty of cable tie retainers on the rear side of the mobo tray area (no need for sticky tape with this case).
Cable routing holes are well placed, although there could perhaps be better access to the top of the mobo area and perhaps into the drive bay areas.
The cable routing holes are spacious and easy to get plugs through howerver they are not covered by grommets.
Air Cooling options
The case comes with 1x140mm front, 1x 140mm top and 1x120 rear fans.
In total there is provision for 1x 140 front or 1x 120 front
2x 120 or 140 bottom
2x 120 or 140 top
1x 120 rear
1x 80 slim rear of mobo.
1x 120 side
Additional fan can be installed in the optional GPU support bracket.
Watercooling options
The case supports maximum
120.2 single thickness rad in the roof.
120.2 single thickness rad in the floor. To mount the floor rad necessitates the removal of the detachable HDD section, leaving 2 HDD bays.
Ok, i'd best hit the removed by G-Dubs shop and get me some bits and bobs sorted.
Mine arrives on Wednesday cannot actually wait! Getting another 360 rad as well as a couple of gpu blocks, but keeping clear liquid as the sheer amount of blue LEDs on this case should provide le colour
Whre you putting the 360 rad?
Associate
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2011
- Posts
- 1,142
- Location
- London
I am thinking of watercooling my CM 690 White edition.
How much did it cost you?
How much did it cost you?
I'm using the RASA kit. I got it from a competitor to OCUK so can't give you the link.
I've built custom loops before so I have a basis for comparison and can honestly say it's a very nice bit of kit.
Review here
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18255454
Don't know if OCUK sell it but if not PM me and i'll send you a link to where I got mine.
I've built custom loops before so I have a basis for comparison and can honestly say it's a very nice bit of kit.
Review here
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18255454
Don't know if OCUK sell it but if not PM me and i'll send you a link to where I got mine.
The 360 rad is going in the roof of the case, the 240 rad is going in the floor, or possibly on a custom bracket
I guess you're going to be doing a bit of modding up top then. I think you can take out the top ODD bay and the HDD port and get it in there, but not sure how you'd go about it.
Absolutely nothing else needed apart from coolant. It's a seriously sorted kit. I can't recommend it enough.
You wait ages for an update and then 2 come along in the same day.
Typical...Bloooooming typical.
Well it's been a bit of a windy bank holiday Monday out here on the Lincolnshire coast, but still the caravans have been out in force. We've had guests down for the weekend, but they went yesterday so after a spot of gardening it was on with the build
I reviewed the NZXT orange LED strip a while back and commented on how short it's molex power lead was. Well Having tried to install it I can confirm its way too short. Too short in fact to even reach through the mobo cutout.
All is not lost however as In my handy dandy box of goodies resides some wire and the remnants of my braid.
Et Voila, the way NZXT should have made it. Sorry to bang on about this, but this orange LED strip is a great product that is really let down by the short power extension lead. That said, it really is only a problem if your a bit OCD about hiding your cables. If you're not then it's not an issue.
A few pics of it installed in the case. The one at the bottom is the Hydra controller for the BF Spectre fans, the one at the top is the NZXT unit. Why is it all the way at the top as opposed to on the second from bottom PCI slot just above the Hydra? Well it's simple, the PCB on the NZXT fouls the capacitors on the Mobo and this is the only slot it will go in without interfering with the GPU. No worries, i'll just route the cable down the inside. Glad I added all that extra length.
So now I have the control unit in I'm all set to get the String LED in place.
Nice mod on the Power lead there mate. It's a shame that they designed it with such a short lead, after all the product is for a case aesthetic improvement and having a molex lump sagging between your pci slots does not do much for me.
Is that bitfenix pci bracket for a single fan or for the control of multiples? Seems like something that would look good on a 5.25" front panel switch array with a touch of modding.
So tempted to get a led string myself to vary the light I get from my SMD strips. Seems a neat solution but do wonder why they don't use orange braid.
Is that bitfenix pci bracket for a single fan or for the control of multiples? Seems like something that would look good on a 5.25" front panel switch array with a touch of modding.
So tempted to get a led string myself to vary the light I get from my SMD strips. Seems a neat solution but do wonder why they don't use orange braid.
Hey tealc mate good to hear from you.
Yeah agree the short molex lead is a real oversight, and the size of the PCB itself is also a real pain in the bum. If it had to be so big, why not mount it further along the PCI bracket so as to negate any mobo clash issues.
The Hydra unit can control up to 10 or so fans I seem to remember. I never actually got round to reviewing it but will do by the end of the build.
It does only control the lights on the compatible Spectre fan range though not the speeds.
Currently trying to decide on white or orange as a theme
You know I live orange and am drawn to it like a moth to a flame, but I'm trying to fight it and do something a different (not that white hasn't been done before
What do you reckon?
Well Orange is still quite uncommon and makes a 'Look at me' sort of statement. White is popular and clean but a bit meh in my opinion, as is Red, Blue and Black.
You've already gone Orange LED for the LED chain. Get some more Orange action before everyone else does it.
You've already gone Orange LED for the LED chain. Get some more Orange action before everyone else does it.
Orange it is then
Quick update, the NZXT orange LED string is now installed.
Nice isn't it...
What do you mean you can't see it?
That's kinda the point when it's switched off though isn't it.
Having been disappointed with a few aspects of the design of this bit of kit, namely the length of the Molex cable and the positioning of the PCB which fouls the mobo, I have to say that fitting it into the case is really easy. The strip flexes well and makes it round all the 90 degree bends with ease. the supplied self adhesive cable clips are effective and really really sticky. the length of the cable itself is also spot on. I had a slight overlap which means the kit could also be used in larger cases.
Nice isn't it...
What do you mean you can't see it?
That's kinda the point when it's switched off though isn't it.
Having been disappointed with a few aspects of the design of this bit of kit, namely the length of the Molex cable and the positioning of the PCB which fouls the mobo, I have to say that fitting it into the case is really easy. The strip flexes well and makes it round all the 90 degree bends with ease. the supplied self adhesive cable clips are effective and really really sticky. the length of the cable itself is also spot on. I had a slight overlap which means the kit could also be used in larger cases.
Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Aug 2010
- Posts
- 8,331
- Location
- Cornwall
Sorry to hi-jack the thread...
I've got the predecessor to the RASA kit in my 690 II and I'm about to add a second rad in the bottom (well technically I have a rad in the bottom but it's a 120mm so going to replace with a 240mm).
I'm also cooling my graphics card and I have to say I found the performance of the water-cooling loop to be disappointing. Maybe the RASA improved things but I ended up wishing I'd just spent a bit more and bought separate bits.
Anyway, I'm wondering if you (the OP) or anyone else has any suggestions for fan directions.
I've got:
Rad + 2 fans at the top
Rad + 2 fans at the bottom
2 fans on side panel
1 fan front
1 fan rear
Is it better to go positive, negative or neutral air pressure?
My plan was to have the bottom, front and top side panel fans as intakes and the top, rear and bottom side panel as exhausts.
My logic being that it makes sense to draw air in from the front and the bottom. The lower side panel s exhausting to try to expel some of the hot air that passed over the bottom rad.
The top side panel then draws in hopefully fresh air again (unless it just sucks back in the hot air expelled by the lower fan) and blows air over the MOSFETs etc. around the CPU. The top fans then suck the air out over the rad and the rear fan expels more air to stop warm air building up and hopefully keep the pressure more or less even.
I'm planning to use Akasa Vipers on the Rads and Akasa Apache as the other case fans. I'll also be using a fan controller to hopefully keep the noise bearable.
What do you guys think?
I've got the predecessor to the RASA kit in my 690 II and I'm about to add a second rad in the bottom (well technically I have a rad in the bottom but it's a 120mm so going to replace with a 240mm).
I'm also cooling my graphics card and I have to say I found the performance of the water-cooling loop to be disappointing. Maybe the RASA improved things but I ended up wishing I'd just spent a bit more and bought separate bits.
Anyway, I'm wondering if you (the OP) or anyone else has any suggestions for fan directions.
I've got:
Rad + 2 fans at the top
Rad + 2 fans at the bottom
2 fans on side panel
1 fan front
1 fan rear
Is it better to go positive, negative or neutral air pressure?
My plan was to have the bottom, front and top side panel fans as intakes and the top, rear and bottom side panel as exhausts.
My logic being that it makes sense to draw air in from the front and the bottom. The lower side panel s exhausting to try to expel some of the hot air that passed over the bottom rad.
The top side panel then draws in hopefully fresh air again (unless it just sucks back in the hot air expelled by the lower fan) and blows air over the MOSFETs etc. around the CPU. The top fans then suck the air out over the rad and the rear fan expels more air to stop warm air building up and hopefully keep the pressure more or less even.
I'm planning to use Akasa Vipers on the Rads and Akasa Apache as the other case fans. I'll also be using a fan controller to hopefully keep the noise bearable.
What do you guys think?
No worries on the Hijack, although you may get a better response if you open a separate thread.
I asked similar questions at the start of my build and put some rather crude images in, might be worth hitting the early posts.
I've gone for a very positive pressure on mine,
I think the cold in at bottom and hot out at top works well in a classical fashion, the only thing I would change is to have both the side fans as intakes in order to better organise the cross Mobo airflow.
But hey they're fans, you can always turn them round.
I asked similar questions at the start of my build and put some rather crude images in, might be worth hitting the early posts.
I've gone for a very positive pressure on mine,
I think the cold in at bottom and hot out at top works well in a classical fashion, the only thing I would change is to have both the side fans as intakes in order to better organise the cross Mobo airflow.
But hey they're fans, you can always turn them round.