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The hunting is with one lens only.
The problem is with the AF points so its exactly the issue everyone has.
D600 with full fat AF system!
- Thread starter An Exception
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The hunting is with one lens only.
The problem is with the AF points so its exactly the issue everyone has.
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I returned 3 D700s when they first came out as they had red hot pixels all over them.
Seems like Nikon rush poor quality crap out the door
Seems like Nikon rush poor quality crap out the door
Sounds like sucky spec's to me as well, would rather get a 5dii.
What is it with all this 1/4000 gimping ffs...
Yeah those specs hardly fill me with hope. I would like to know how many pictures you have in your catalogue shot faster than 1/4000 though. Just out of curiosity
Don't know if you can count them using LR (I couldn't), but below is just from 1 wedding (and there were actually allot more than this). Exposure times were between 1/4000 - 1/8000 and some needed recovery in LR.
Caporegime
When you shoot wide open, sub 2.0, you need all the speed that you need.
Soldato
In Lightroom when you are on the library page you can select to filter by Exif data, so is easy to see how many shots you have at various settings.
He also exposes to the left which is requiring a faster shutter speed than normal (
) people.I will have to do that, I was just curious. It's not really something I've taken much notice of.
Hunting isNOT the ssue that that everyone else has.
Your camera definitely seems to have a problem ad you should get it repaired but thus seems to be damaged sensors, not the calibration.
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Nice! From the bay or a store?
Store has 6 month warr also, I think they miss priced the Camera, They only Charged me £1010 So far.. I'll be over the moon if they mischarge me also LOL.
He also exposes to the left which is requiring a faster shutter speed than normal (
As well as other wedding tog's like Brett Harkness etc.
It's a compromise with many different aspects factoring in the equation depending on what gear your using, but if you understand your gear fully, then you can make better real world decisions in order to get the results you want, instead of just doing what someone else is doing.
D600 gets second on DxO mark behind the D800/E sensor ..
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/09/19/n...Rumors+(NikonRumors.com)&utm_content=FaceBook
Makes it worth while over the D700 again? (assuming the price doesn't stay insane, ob)
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/09/19/n...Rumors+(NikonRumors.com)&utm_content=FaceBook
Makes it worth while over the D700 again? (assuming the price doesn't stay insane, ob)
A smidgen lower DR and colour deth but a little less noise/better ith ISO that actually beat the D4!
Very nice, a perfect wedding tog camera.
Just saw a side by side comparison with 5dmk3, dxomark is not everything and I have not dived into the details but it is really making the new canon sensor to look like it is a generation behind.
Will the 6d sensor be an improvement overage lackluster 5dmk3 or will t e loser to the original 5dmk2 sensor?
Very nice, a perfect wedding tog camera.
Just saw a side by side comparison with 5dmk3, dxomark is not everything and I have not dived into the details but it is really making the new canon sensor to look like it is a generation behind.
Will the 6d sensor be an improvement overage lackluster 5dmk3 or will t e loser to the original 5dmk2 sensor?
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Soldato
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D600 seems like the way I'll eventually get into FF photography then.
In terms of entry to FF, which I appreciate is a bit of a tangent in this thread, but I have a D5100 and a 70-200mm 2.8 (and 35mm DX 1.8 & 18-105mm DX, but irrelevant in this case).
Would I appreciate the use of a 24-70mm lens on my D5100? I was thinking of getting that, then saving for the FF body. Selling the 35mm and 18-105mm in the process in order to fund a 50mm prime, or something else.
In terms of entry to FF, which I appreciate is a bit of a tangent in this thread, but I have a D5100 and a 70-200mm 2.8 (and 35mm DX 1.8 & 18-105mm DX, but irrelevant in this case).
Would I appreciate the use of a 24-70mm lens on my D5100? I was thinking of getting that, then saving for the FF body. Selling the 35mm and 18-105mm in the process in order to fund a 50mm prime, or something else.
Why do you want to ETTL, do you really just want to guarantee preserving the highlights at the cost of decreased DR and tonality ith increased noise? Can you not use ND grad filters and ETTR, maximizing IQ?
I have used a Nikon 24-70 for a year on my d90 as I saw an amazing deal/pricing error. the lens is wonderful but it is not useful on a crop body as a general lens, think of it more as a prime lens. 24mm is just restrictive,mi spend most of my time below 24mm on a crop sensor, most of the rest of the time above 150mm. 24-70 on a crop is pretty boring middle ground.
However, I do find it useful for wedding reportage work, you basically have a 35mm, 50mm, 85mm and 105mm prime lenses attached to your camera, albeit slew and larger DOf but I find shooting at f2.8 on a crop sensor to give plenty thin enough DoF and you already Have to be careful to get bride and groom in focus together etc. Bokeh of the 24-70 is sublime, happilly giving buttery smooth bokeh as good as any prime, the lens is also more aor less as sharp as the primes and for this type of work you don't need more sharpness.
I just do whatever works well for me in practice.
I meter for skin tone. Lighter materials with higher reflectivity however will blow out, even if the light hitting it is the same intensity as the light hitting skin tone.
If I meter on an eye that is in shadow, depending on the contrast the light side will likely be blown out. The highlights in the dress will certainly be blow out.
At a wedding I don't have time for 'redo's, it's not always possible either, most of the time if you miss a moment then that's it.. it's gone.. do better next time.
Not all camera's behave the same or have the same IQ. So to issue a blanket statement of always ETTR is foolish and will likely even be detrimental to the people who don't have noise/banding issues.
ETTR is fine in theory in a controlled environment where you have time to monitor your histogram and retake the shot if needed. It is particularly useful if banding/noise is an issue. The downside is you have to keep monitoring the histogram which distracts focus from what your trying to achieve, it means your much more likely to blow out highlights, particularly in run and gun situations in challenging light.
For me ETTL is much more practical in the 'real world'. The extra highlight recovery comes in very handy. I'm not saying I never want to blow out highlights, just that I would rather have the choice in post.
Pushing exposure 2/3's of a stop results in no perceptible banding issues. Noise on a FF D700 is very well controlled, so another non issue.
If I was shooting with a body that was more prone to Chroma noise/banding in the shadows, then ETTR would be a more compelling option in many more circumstances. However as I don't suffer from this type of image degradation (at least with the small amount I push exposure) ETTL offers more advantage than ETTR.
Now with the latest Exmor sensors, ETTR should be very seldom of benefit imo.
I see.
You also spot meter on just about every shot I've seen you take so I can see a bit better with your above comment why you ETTL makes a bit more sense so you don't completely blow the highlights
I guess it works for you and you have become practiced at it.
You also spot meter on just about every shot I've seen you take so I can see a bit better with your above comment why you ETTL makes a bit more sense so you don't completely blow the highlights
I guess it works for you and you have become practiced at it.
I totally understand that ETLL with new Exmor sensors is an easy method that can give good results and protects the highlights so in hard to meter dynamic situations it can be helpful. Certainly taking ETTR to the limit and constantly checking histograms is not feasible in some situations but you don't have yo go extreme to get the benefits, you can push 0.5-1 stop over and have excellent results.
If you are worried about the highlights then I wonder if you are using the best metering method? I think you tend to use spot metering, which as you say, if you meter of the brides eye which is in shadow then her dress in sunlight will tend to get blown. For 99.9% of my photos I find matrix metering to be extremely effective and helps take care of the highlights - it has its idiosyncrasies but you learn what the matrix meter will do and when EC is needed. Matrix metering tends to protect highlights but is also slightly weighted towards the AF point so focusing on an eye in the shadow will make the camera try to balance the highlights and properly exposure where you focused- with experience you should learn what EC to apply in such situations if needed but matrix metering is never too far out for me in most situations (it can get completely screwed but those times are obvious). You can also spot meter off the wedding dress to find the correct exposure for you highlights and then push that exposure to the right a little- putting this exposure into manual mode and you should be good for all subsequent shots within the same lighting (of course people changing from the shadows of a tree to full sun will mean constant adjustments and your technique would be far safer).
ETTR can never be detrimental to IQ when used appropriately and the benefits are far reaching. It is not just about shadow banding issues but the entire image processing. Pushing 1 stop on a modern sensor is fine and I'm sure you know this but you still have to realize that this is the same as 1 stop ISO bump, if you are shooting at ISO 3200 which gives acceptable noise and you push 1 stop in software then you might find noise no longer acceptable at ISO 6400 equivalent. The only detriments of ETTR is longer exposure time which may result in subject/image blur in low light situations.
I guess I am just surprised you find 1/4000th exposure a limit on a D600. Compared to a D700 you can shoot 1 stop ISO lower (I know the D700 has a lot of highlight headroom) and instead of ETTL why not just aim for a more balanced exposure without highlights clipping? Are you also sure you have to take those shots wide open, is DoF not sufficiently shallow at f/2.0 rather than f/1.4? Can you not throw on a light ND filter when outside in full sun?
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