Driving sim help?

I dont see the point in wasting money on cheaper stuff, when i can get a better one, but,

I will take your advice and get the dfgt, if i like it i will keep it, see how it goes, and its not expensive, same if not less than my mmo's i used to play,
 
I dont see the point in wasting money on cheaper stuff, when i can get a better one, but,

I will take your advice and get the dfgt, if i like it i will keep it, see how it goes, and its not expensive, same if not less than my mmo's i used to play,
you don't seem to realise you get very little content for your subscription cost.
Every iRacing subscription comes standard with the
600 Racing Legends Ford '34 Coupe
Street Stock Mazda MX-5(Available in left and right hand drive)
Pontiac Solstice
Spec Racer Ford
Cadillac CTS-V R.
and I think you got 4 tracks when I bought it (limerock park , some asian circuit? , a road course and an oval)

Additional cars cost a one-time fee of $11.95.
Additional tracks cost a one-time fee of either $11.95 or $14.95 (depending on the track).
If you buy 3 pieces of content (cars or tracks) at once you’ll receive a discount of 10%.
If you buy 6 pieces of content at once you’ll receive a discount of 20%.
If you own either every road OR oval car (plus any 25 tracks), every new car or track you buy gets discounted at 25%.
If you own all the cars and tracks, every new car or track you buy gets discounted at 30%.
there are over 30 additional cars and over 50 additional tracks.

whilst you don't need all tracks you will want all the tracks in the current season for whatever car you decide to race and it very quickly adds up
Which is why I think it's such a bad idea to jump straight in with the most expensive wheel and pedals you can afford when a DFGT is more than good enough to give you an enjoyable racing experience without nuking your wallet.

I remember when I got my very first wheel a DFGT and the first time I tried Iracing it felt awesome everything just felt right I can't see you being disappointed if you do buy one
 
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The basic iRacing subscription gets you Laguna Seca, Lime Rock Park (two layouts), Okayama (two layouts), Summit Point (four layouts) and Charlotte (two oval and two road course layouts)

Plus five other oval tracks that are pretty crap.
 
Sounds like a plan then :) just wouldnt mind help for a set of pedals then?? And a stand to go with it all, i spend far to much money on fifa as it is,
 
And ahh i missed that, not to bad really, i used to pay 17 a week on fifa ultimate team, a lot i know, v2 pedals or save and get the v1??
 
And ahh i missed that, not to bad really, i used to pay 17 a week on fifa ultimate team, a lot i know, v2 pedals or save and get the v1??

The Club Sport V2 are better than the V1, which have been discontinued. These are Fanatec's top of the range pedal set.

http://eu.fanatec.com/Pedals/ClubSport Pedals V2 EU

These are the CSR Elite Pedals that Murray has with a load cell brake.

http://eu.fanatec.com/Pedals/CSR Elite Pedals EU

These are the CSR pedals that use potentiometers for all the pedals (no load cell brake) So you may as well not bother replacing the DFGT pedals with them.

http://eu.fanatec.com/Pedals/CSR Pedals EU
 
Well second hand, i could still get the v1, but would it be worth just spending the money on the v2? So i wouldnt need to change them again,
 
Plus fanatec aren't known for making the most reliable gear. I'd get pedals right from fanatec for the warranty.
 
I think a lot of their reputation for poor build quality comes from their US customers and the fact that the US Fanatec agent isn't the best. They've also made improvements in the overall manufacturing process as well.

It would be nice if they had a UK based distribution agent.
 
Yes, it's a great piece of kit. Really pleased with mine - very sturdy and stable.

It may seem expensive for what it is but trust me, it's worth it.

I second this, my wheelstand is faultless (Apart from maybe the bar being placed right through the middle of your legs but with good adjustment it's not a problem for me).
 
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