I've just got to the Altus Plateu but still going back to old areas to get Somber Smithing Stones and discovering new areas and caves en route.
I'm loving it but I do agree that no log or waypoints makes side quests almost impossible to follow without Googling a guide.
I have no idea where Radhan's comet landed or how to cure Millicent etc without searching. I did the weird finger guys quest to get access to the chicken rune farm area but again, had to Google for help. The fact you have to talk twice to get what you need is so easily missable!
Anyway, still loving it, and am now level 110 after barely any chicken farming. That itself is much easier, quicker and unlimited by using Loretta's Greatbow instead of arrows.
yeh im finding myself searching more and more lately on mr google to find stuff, theres an item i want that increases faith by +5 and just got up to the whole east side of liurnia, missed so much there, also got to morgyth earlier which is part of the reason im after a +5 to faith item