Engine dilemma.....

DreXeL said:
OK, just to add a bit more weight back to the turbo option, the guy I have been speaking to said he can fit the crank girdle, and uprated rod bolts and main bolts for a more than reasonable price, and he's confident that the engine will hold up with those in place.

I'm still leaning towards keeping it N/A, but that has swayed it back a little....
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Until you start winding the boost up when the boost monster kicks in :p

Whos the guy your talking to? Its the B20 thinner and less stable walls that can cause issues with staying square under high revs, boost and higher cylinder temps that would concern me.

Its hard to choose I know, I have pretty everything I need to turbo mine sat doing sweet FA, Im not using the car much and TBH very rarely reallyu think 'I need more power' other than track days where I more than happy to rinse the thing to death as I know it will take it all day.

Is a K20 now doable for the 2.5k - £3k price if your selective? , nice midground between NA mods and Turbo.
 
Cyanide said:
Are you though?
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I can only go by what I've been told, this guy has 8 years experience with Hondas and is particularly experienced with turbo setups on them.

The only thing that worries me is the fact that the stock sleeves on the B20 are quite thin, and they tend to crack. He says the Girdle will help prevent that.
 
DreXeL said:
I can only go by what I've been told, this guy has 8 years experience with Hondas and is particularly experienced with turbo setups on them.

The only thing that worries me is the fact that the stock sleeves on the B20 are quite thin, and they tend to crack. He says the Girdle will help prevent that.
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Fair enough if he's that experienced and you trust him. I just know if it were me I wouldn't be bolting a turbo or doing heavy mods to an engine I know has already let me down once. Hence me buying a new lump for my bike ;)
 
Jonnycoupe said:
Whos the guy your talking to?
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Yasir at G786. I know there have been a couple of bad stories about their engine swaps, but TBH I have read more good than bad, and he has a good reputation over at Civic Life. He certainly seems to know what he's doing when it come to boosting the B-Series.

Jonnycoupe said:
Is a K20 now doable for the 2.5k - £3k price if your selective? , nice midground between NA mods and Turbo.
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I don't think it is to be honest, from what I can find the engine and box alone will cost nearly 2.5k.
 
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DreXeL said:
Swapping the cams and skimming the head is an option of course (I've actually been offered some spoon cams as a straight swap for the Todas),
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I would be following this up in your position. I don't know much about these things but surely that is comparitively a much lower cost option and means that your back on the road sooner, giving you time to really think over your options?
 
DreXeL said:
Yasir at G786. I know there have been a couple of bad stories about their engine swaps, but TBH I have read more good than bad, and he has a good reputation over at Civic Life. He certainly seems to know what he's doing when it come to boosting the B-Series.



I don't think it is to be honest, from what I can find the engine and box alone will cost nearly 2.5k.
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My friend got a K20 engine and box (CTR only) with the subframe brakes etc for £1k :eek: But i guess that it a rare occurance and was abotu 2 years ago.
 
Hey drexel why not just go part way? If you run low boost then im guessing you might not have to touch the CR? Not sure how strong these engines are. If thats the case then it would be just as responsive off the line as a N/A with some extra go up in the rev range which shouldn't cause any traction problems. Thats what i would do anyway.
Do you have any dyno plots for the 300bhp ones? Just wondering how the torque comes in.
 
325whpgt28rsjeff.jpg


Oh yeah, GT28RS is a superb all use setup on a B18.

Thing about the 250bhp in a FWD isnt alway true. I fi got a DC5 at 250bhp and stuck in some different cams and reved the thing harder all your doing is extending the torque curve yet due to the revs can make say, 270bhp, the actual tractability of the engine is pretty much unchanges as a NA VTEC doesnt have the same correlation between power and torque like a turbocharged car with a boost increase.
 
To be honest, I think I'd opt for N/A.

In the long run, I think it'll be a better solution. That said, can you not get shotgun in a boosted one to give you an idea of what it's like?
 
nice graph jonny. Yeah looking at that i would turbo it. That torque isnt huge anyway, only a touch more than something like an astra vxr. Do it.
 
Think with you balls and not your head :)

Imagine the smooth power delivery of the NA engine and the sheer adrenaline rush and grin on your face everytime the turbo spools up.
 
Difficult choice - I'd be torn between the S/C setup and as has been suggested, running less boost. No need to go mental, hell if you want massive top end and lots of boost, get a GTO or something similar. Running ~7psi should certainly improve things and not be straining the engine too much and THEN you have room to move up if/when necessary. I can't help feeling you'll get it spot on in N/A tuning and then want more, leaving you no option other than to go F/I. At least if the basic setup is right 1st time, you *can* move on if you want to.

Surely looking at 250 on mild boost is going to be a better option than getting stuck at 210 n/a or being terrified it'll die everyime you drive it running 300+ on big boost?
 
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