Fuji X Series

I don't have the 16mm prime, just the 35mm :)

Argh I'm really tearing myself up about renting the 10-24 for Cuba. Two weeks travelling round. Seems a shame to only have the 35mm although that was what I originally intended (to travel light and my main priorities were street shots/portraits). £100 to rent for 16 days though, plus I'd want a CPL which would be £40. Could return that afterwards though :o

There is a 10-24 on TalkPhotography going for £500 but I don't have access to the marketplace there..
 
The 16-50mm is sharp and it covers the 24-75mm range and is light. You forget on forums there is a huge amount of E-PEEN against cheaper lenses when plenty will be perfectly fine.
 
I'll second the Samyang 12mm. Fabulous lens.

I bought an X-E1 so I can have it ready to rock alongside either the 23 or 35 f1.4 on the X-E2.
 
UWA lenses add distortion - you tend to use them for an exaggerated FOV rather than just for cramming more stuff in.

I have used both 17mm and 17-35mm lenses on FF and 35mm ,10mm on APS-C is around 15mm to 16mm in 35mm equivalent terms and 17mm can be too wide. 12mm is around 18mm in 35mm equivalent terms.

24mm is more useable in real life.

Another issue with UWA lenses(mostly with the zoom ones) is flare resistance with panoramic shots (if you use it that way) especially with a largish curved front element. Primes tend to much better over a UWA zoom(probably due to UWA zooms have more elements in a more complex grouping).

The standard 16-50mm covers all the relevant focal lengths,is sharp wide open,had great OIS,is light and is cheap.

I tried printing a few 12" X 8" photos and it seemed fine at that size.
 
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CGrieves said:
I'll second the Samyang 12mm. Fabulous lens.

I bought an X-E1 so I can have it ready to rock alongside either the 23 or 35 f1.4 on the X-E2.
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I am ditching my RX100 M2 for the the XE2 to use as a general point and shoot and to compliment the XT2. I was once called on to do a impromptu portrait session of a child and since I only had the RX100 to hand, I had to use that. I still managed a good job but decided from that moment I needed to, whenever possible, carry some decent glass around with me.
 
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Cat, I totally get what you're saying. But I've been after an UWA lens since I bought my D50 around 12 years ago! I've never been one for buying a 'pro' lens just-because -- I made do with my kit lens, 50mm prime and cheap Sigma 70-300 for years on that setup.

I love the exaggerated fov for portrait/journalistic/street shots and architecture, I've always been a fan of that style. I would happily go for a Samyang but manual focus puts me off slightly (and besides you can't find it anywhere right now).

My decision right now is what the heck do I take to Cuba for two weeks to complement my 35mm. Bearing in mind on lensesforhire the two available are the 14mm f2.8 or the 10-24, I think the 10-24 probably gives me a bit more flexibility to use the 24mm range on the street for the above-mentioned journalistic, street portrait style. Whereas the 14mm is actually slightly cheaper, but perhaps not as great for that. Possibly.

EDIT: Then again the 14mm is about half the weight of the 10-24 :o
 
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With an UWA prime, focus is easy. I only touch the focus ring when the subject is closer than 2m, which I find is very rare. The rest of the time it's pinned at infinity. In fact I wish it had a focus lock.
 
CGrieves said:
With an UWA prime, focus is easy. I only touch the focus ring when the subject is closer than 2m, which I find is very rare. The rest of the time it's pinned at infinity. In fact I wish it had a focus lock.
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Occasionally I'm having a bad time of it since the Focus assist was removed on the XT2 as I'm slightly short sighted. I'm going to have to try split screen to see if that will help on the Samyang 12mm.
 
ethan said:
Occasionally I'm having a bad time of it since the Focus assist was removed on the XT2 as I'm slightly short sighted. I'm going to have to try split screen to see if that will help on the Samyang 12mm.
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Not that I've tried but, isn't the focus assist button now on the scroll wheel?

To get full magnification you need to be shooting RAW+JPEG and NOT saving them to separate SD cards.
 
Just seen this in an article saying "10 things you didn't know about the fuji XT2":

How to check focus at close magnification before you shoot

If you want to pre-focus before you record a video or find precise focus using a manual lens, it’s helpful to view your subject at closer magnification to check focus before you shoot. This is very straightforward on the X-T2 – simply depress the rear command dial and then scroll it to the right to toggle between two magnified views. To return to full-screen again, just depress the rear command dial once more.


Read more at http://www.amateurphotographer.co.u...t-the-fujifilm-x-t2-97035#rDpLLUAQOQZTmc74.99
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I shall try it.
 
I'm struggling to resize for web without photoshop so apologies that these look so crunchy. Anyway, after the recent wide angle chat I did a rough comparison between 12mm Samyang and 16mm Fuji (16-50mm kit), both around F8.

6d0lPEI.jpg
16mm

bGLupP1.jpg
12mm
 
I'm not pixel peeper, but I don't think there's any surprises there. Thanks :)

CGrieves said:
With an UWA prime, focus is easy. I only touch the focus ring when the subject is closer than 2m, which I find is very rare. The rest of the time it's pinned at infinity. In fact I wish it had a focus lock.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I'm liking the look of some portraits at 14mm. I've never used a dof calculator but wondering what results you'd get by using f2.8 and perhaps focussing on someone say 10ft away. Does this sound right? :confused:

Subject distance 10 ft

Depth of field
Near limit 5.33 ft
Far limit 80.4 ft
Total 75.1 ft

In front of subject 4.7 ft (6%)
Behind subject 70.4 ft (94%)

Hyperfocal distance 11.4 ft
Circle of confusion 0.02 mm
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So if that was on a street pretty much everything (buildings etc) in the background would be in focus (assuming you are shooting across the street rather than down it).

And if you were shooting a landscape stopped down to f8, no wonder you'd just leave it in infinity focus;

Subject distance 100 ft

Depth of field
Near limit 3.87 ft
Far limit Infinity
Total Infinite

In front of subject 96.1 ft
Behind subject Infinite

Hyperfocal distance 4.06 ft
Circle of confusion 0.02 mm
Click to expand...
 
The advantage of taking a 16-50MM together with the 12MM,is that the OP gets other focal lengths too.

Like I said I have a 17MM lens on a FX body,and I tend to take a 28-70MM with me in a pouch in my bag.

Looking at the size of the 12MM and 16-50MM,they are not large lenses,so the OP only really needs to put them in some protective soft pouches and keep them in their day bag.

I do find having a 35MM and 70MM equivalent useful for certain shots. A 50MM equivalent(35MM lens on APS-C) is OKish but remember why the 50MM lens are popular on APS-C bodies - it gives a magnification closer to a 75MM~80MM on a FX body,which is a good portraiture focal length.

Edit!!

TBH,I have never been a fan of 50MM lenses on 35MM/FX bodies - the only reason SLRs had them for so long as standard lenses is since they were cheap to make compared to 35MM and 85MM lenses.
 
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Scam said:
Cat, I totally get what you're saying. But I've been after an UWA lens since I bought my D50 around 12 years ago! I've never been one for buying a 'pro' lens just-because -- I made do with my kit lens, 50mm prime and cheap Sigma 70-300 for years on that setup.

I love the exaggerated fov for portrait/journalistic/street shots and architecture, I've always been a fan of that style. I would happily go for a Samyang but manual focus puts me off slightly (and besides you can't find it anywhere right now).

My decision right now is what the heck do I take to Cuba for two weeks to complement my 35mm. Bearing in mind on lensesforhire the two available are the 14mm f2.8 or the 10-24, I think the 10-24 probably gives me a bit more flexibility to use the 24mm range on the street for the above-mentioned journalistic, street portrait style. Whereas the 14mm is actually slightly cheaper, but perhaps not as great for that. Possibly.

EDIT: Then again the 14mm is about half the weight of the 10-24 :o
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Personally for Cuba I would go with the Samyang 12mm like others have suggested, you'll prob find the extra stops at f2 more useful than the f4 of the 10-24.

I'm sure you will have some great opportunities for night / astrophotography
 
Zaf said:
Not that I've tried but, isn't the focus assist button now on the scroll wheel?

To get full magnification you need to be shooting RAW+JPEG and NOT saving them to separate SD cards.
Click to expand...

You can save to separate cards, just set the review to use the card with the jpegs.
 
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