Fuji X Series

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I'm happy with my X-T10 for now and will look at the X-T30 in a year or so when the prices have come down a bit. I just have an itch for a new toy!

Given how many lenses you already have, a new body seems more logical, you can get the X-T3 for £899 body only, or an X-E3 for £440, or a middle of the road upgrade X-T20 for £409.

Pretty sure you'd get £200 if your X-T10 is in good condition. :)
 
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olv

olv

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Given how many lenses you already have, a new body seems more logical, you can get the X-T3 for £899 body only, or an X-E3 for £440, or a middle of the road upgrade X-T20 for £409.

Pretty sure you'd get £200 if your X-T10 is in good condition. :)

Useful, it has made me think. Thanks.
 

olv

olv

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Still toying with upgrading my X-T10. With the trade in cashback (I have an old X-M1 to trade) an selling the free grip, I could get an X-T2 for £550-600 UK stock which seems good value.

I'm concerned over the size increase of the X-T2/3 vs T20/30 but I am really drawn to the bigger EVF in the X-T2. For those who have owned both is the big viewfinder worth it?
 

RaV

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Still toying with upgrading my X-T10. With the trade in cashback (I have an old X-M1 to trade) an selling the free grip, I could get an X-T2 for £550-600 UK stock which seems good value.

I'm concerned over the size increase of the X-T2/3 vs T20/30 but I am really drawn to the bigger EVF in the X-T2. For those who have owned both is the big viewfinder worth it?

I went from an XE2 with official grip(better size for my large hands) to a new XT2 and I think the xt2 is a nearly perfectly sized. The larger EVF is lovely especially since i wear glasses. For my usage it was a great upgrade as even though the XT2 was released a good while ago, it really is an impressive camera. If compactness is very important Id have a look at it in a shop. But Id imagine there's not as much difference coming from an XT10 instead of my XE2.
 
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hi all,

I'm currenlty an XT20 user with 18-55 and 50-230 XC. for the last 15 years, i have been a still object/landscape guy. Few family members have picked up all kind of sport lately, so i naturally took up the photography duty. Last weekend was London triathlon, there were few places (under bridges mainly and some indoor shots understandbly) that the system AF really struggled to track objects accurately (say, at 150mm-200mm, aiming at rider about 20 meters away, weather was overcast, and both rider and myself are under an overhead bridge. i was shooting around 1/250, iso 1000, F6.3. AF seems to have switched back to CDAF instead of phase detection). Should i be looking to get a faster lens, say 50-200mm/ 50-140mm, or should i be lookinig at something with more advnaced AF system like XH1?
I also have a A7rII + 70-300mm G which i didnt think will perform any better in those light, but im quite out of touch with camera stuff in the last two/three years, do correct me if you disagree. Thanks
 
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ISO 1000 is really not very high. I think you could hit 6400 or even 128k before you'd worry about noise. Ap 6.3 is not very side either but I'm assuming that's max for the lens at 200m?

I'd go auto ISO up to 128k, shutter speed set to >250ms and see what that produces? I'm no sports pro btw..
 
Soldato
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ISO 1000 is really not very high. I think you could hit 6400 or even 128k before you'd worry about noise. Ap 6.3 is not very side either but I'm assuming that's max for the lens at 200m?

I'd go auto ISO up to 128k, shutter speed set to >250ms and see what that produces? I'm no sports pro btw..

Higher you go, the better your editing needs to be. 3200 plus by default on screen looks pretty nasty to me most of the time.
 
Soldato
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Higher you go, the better your editing needs to be. 3200 plus by default on screen looks pretty nasty to me most of the time.
I don't think that's true. DPReview disagrees with you on the XT10;

The X-T10 produces fairly similar results to those produced by the X-T1: low on moire, with a good amount of detial but some rather odd renditions of fine green detail. The high ISO JPEGs are good, too, with noise very well controlled and most types of detail well retained.

Despite the claimed advantages of the X-Trans design, it's starting to look a little out-of-date compared with the 24 and 28MP sensors being offered by its rivals. The X-T10 can't match the best of its peers in terms of critical detail. As ISOs rise, the Fujifilm does very well, though: even when the higher pixel-count rivals are scaled to a common size.

As we've seen before, the Raw noise performance is good. Almost too good... We don't know whether the noise reduction is a side-effect of the calculation that goes into demosaicing or if it's an intentionally applied step, but the X-T10's Raw files are impressively low in noise at high ISOs.
Anyway, I'm no pixel peeper but I've plenty of experience. In the OPs situation his was a case of getting a blurry mess by lengthening the shutter speed, or getting nothing good at all. Upping the ISO is your last resort, so you use what you need to use. End of story, imo.

I know Instagram isn't the place to post pics but I believe I took all of these at either 6400 or 128k; https://www.instagram.com/p/B0mIF2KnMbT/ Their skin looks a little noisy at full size but it's not anywhere close to ruining the pictures. (Mental note, must sort out my migration from Flickr to 500px :o ). Those were taken with an XT10 and an old Sigma 70-300 which is probably f5.6 at the max. And manual focus!
 
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Different people think different things look good. I just don't like high ISO images but accept not much can be done in a lot of situations. You can get away with shooting on a potato for Instagram though, and many do with varying results.
 
Soldato
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I'm tempted in getting the x100f. Anyone got it? After a point and click, for daily use rather than a bulky dslr.
Never had a fuji before. Alternatives?
 

And

And

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128k = 128000.

I'm sure you mean 12800 :)

ISO 1000 is really not very high. I think you could hit 6400 or even 128k before you'd worry about noise. Ap 6.3 is not very side either but I'm assuming that's max for the lens at 200m?

I'd go auto ISO up to 128k, shutter speed set to >250ms and see what that produces? I'm no sports pro btw..

----------

I'd say being close to the subject (to negate any cropping as far as possible) and nailing your exposure is more important in mitigating the downside of higher ISOs.

Higher you go, the better your editing needs to be. 3200 plus by default on screen looks pretty nasty to me most of the time.
 

LiE

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I'm tempted in getting the x100f. Anyone got it? After a point and click, for daily use rather than a bulky dslr.
Never had a fuji before. Alternatives?

Have a look at the X-E3 with the 23 f2 prime. Pretty much the same price and very similar size except you can change lenses if you fancy it.
 
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@Buddy I reiterate what LiE has said above. I made the mistake of moving from a DSLR thinking a fixed lens camera would suffice, it didn't. 5 months later I purchased an interchangeable lens camera and now the fixed lens camera rarely gets any use.
 
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