Fuji X Series

Yeah likewise, it's been around the world with me and it's output still makes me happy.

Although I'd normally maintain that I don't tend to shoot stuff that moves around, so don't need tracking AF, I wonder how much of that is down to the capability of the camera. Be interesting to see how half decent tracking ability changes my shooting style.

Sad to say but what really excites me is in-camera battery charging and Bluetooth background transfer :D
 
ethan said:
The cheapskate in me is asking if there are any issues with the Hahnel alternatives which are approximately two-thirds of the Fuji price? In what way is boost mode restricted? Does it mean limited use or no use at all?
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Not entirely sure. The word would imply it's still active but not used to it's full potential. Having tried third party batteries before I wouldn't cheap out again. I've tried fairly expensive third party on my old a6000 and although they start off just as good, once you've cycled a good few charges through them they tend to show their quality. Tried third party on a friends xt1, similar scenario. They don't perform any differently, it can just seem like your using a battery with 80% of its advertised capacity that also juices itself far quicker than stock. I'm sure good ones exist but it's finding them reviewed properly. I would add I'm also put off from seeing what cheap Lipo batteries can do to expensive toys :D
 
Current opinion with regards to the battery grip and boost mode is that its function is not to let power save mode kick in after 10 seconds and reduce black-out. There's no mention, as of yet, that a restrictive function set by using reliable, alternative batteries, would extend to anything beyond this. In the mean-time, I'll think I'll just buy some more "s" type batteries just to be safe.
 
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Any recommendations on SD cards for the X-T3? Doesn't need to be huge capacity as I'll be background transferring photos over Bluetooth.

Also is there a performance improvement if you use two cards or is it purely redundancy?
 
Sony currently do a 300 mb/s for performance. I'm currently using Lexar 1000X for convenience and cheapness without issues.
I don't do burst shooting for more than a couple of seconds at a time regardless--using compressed raw.
 
It's really frustrating when your work flow is disrupted by software that refuses to work for whatever reason. I'm now looking at Iridient to convert raw to dng because Fuji's own converter refuses to convert straight out of the box and Adobe doesn't support XT3 raw files. Silky Pix works on my Surface Pro but not my desktop?
 
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Still waiting for mine :(

Hope it doesn't take too long otherwise I'll miss the Fuji cashback deadline (which you need the X-T3 serial number for)
 
CGrieves said:
Still waiting for mine :(

Hope it doesn't take too long otherwise I'll miss the Fuji cashback deadline (which you need the X-T3 serial number for)
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That's unfortunate. Isn't there any way they, Fuji could " help you out" given the fact you have Pre-ordered within the deadline and have been delayed through no fault of your own?

The Fuji cashback site doesn't allow for the submission of those details under a month of ownership and sets a limit of two months in which to make the claim if I have understood it correctly?
 
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Got it!

Good lord it's customisable. The little things are very pleasing- when shooting using the eyepiece sensor, image playback still always defaults to the screen. Obvious but useful.

One slight missed opportunity is that the ISO dial only has one setting for auto. I usually shoot using the three auto settings, so I can just control max ISO, it would have been nice to have those three on the dial, particularly as I'll never use "H" or "L". Maybe the dial can be used to set max ISO, need to delve a little more....

Still need to work out Bluetooth background transfer. It seems flaky.

Also noticed that using NP-W426 batteries, the max burst rate is 8fps (mine came with firmware 1.01)
 
I haven’t been able to work out Bluetooth on the X-T3. The screens refer to what happens when you press the Bluetooth button, but no idea where that is configured (I assume it’s one of the customisable buttons?)
 
CGrieves said:
Got it!

Good lord it's customisable. The little things are very pleasing- when shooting using the eyepiece sensor, image playback still always defaults to the screen. Obvious but useful.

One slight missed opportunity is that the ISO dial only has one setting for auto. I usually shoot using the three auto settings, so I can just control max ISO, it would have been nice to have those three on the dial, particularly as I'll never use "H" or "L". Maybe the dial can be used to set max ISO, need to delve a little more....

Still need to work out Bluetooth background transfer. It seems flaky.

Also noticed that using NP-W426 batteries, the max burst rate is 8fps (mine came with firmware 1.01)
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Glad you got it. With regards to the iso I think there's a menu to set the limit/range (if I have understood you correctly). I didn't realise the burst rate was limited to 8fps using the NP-W426? How would this work when choosing electronic shutter? I ended up buying 126S for grip usage and the NP-W426 for spares.
 
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I'm looking to get my 2nd lens for my XE2S. This is my first camera, I've had it a year with the 35 f2. It's a really good compact setup and in the majority of situations I'm just taking photos of holidays/outings with the family which it does well. I have a trip to Mexico coming up and I'm starting to wonder if I should add another lens to compliment the 35. There will be a wedding where some more reach would be good but still having a nice bokeh.

I've been looking at the 18-55 as a walk about lens, it covers quite a lot of situations. For the same price I could get the 50 f2, that would mean changing lenses in certain situations something I've not done in practice. I do like primes and could later on add something like the 23.

Help me with your sage advice.
 
LiE said:
I'm looking to get my 2nd lens for my XE2S. This is my first camera, I've had it a year with the 35 f2. It's a really good compact setup and in the majority of situations I'm just taking photos of holidays/outings with the family which it does well. I have a trip to Mexico coming up and I'm starting to wonder if I should add another lens to compliment the 35. There will be a wedding where some more reach would be good but still having a nice bokeh.

I've been looking at the 18-55 as a walk about lens, it covers quite a lot of situations. For the same price I could get the 50 f2, that would mean changing lenses in certain situations something I've not done in practice. I do like primes and could later on add something like the 23.

Help me with your sage advice.
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whats your budget? fuji currently have a winter cashback deal
 
You could compensate for the 50mm with regards to portraiture by continuing to "shoot with your feet" using the 35mm if cash is tight and go for the kit lense which is quite good.

With the kit lens you would still gain the reach of the 50mm by purchasing the 18-55 along with the other advantages it entails.There are plenty of review videos as to how good the 18-55 is to help you decide. :)
 
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23mm and 35mm are great walkabout lenses. I've used the 56mm/f1.2 and while it's amazing I found it too tight for general usage. It depends on your subjects, but I'd be looking at something wide. The Fuji 14mm/f2.8 or Samyang 12mm/f2 are both fantastic (I own the Samyang).
 
35 is great for general purpose. When I'm walking about I do find myself not able to get close enough to some subjects, simply because I am with my family and cannot run off to get close in with the 35. That's my thinking with the 50, however saying that I cannot be swapping lens around too much, which is why I was thinking 18-55.
 
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