Which m.2 did you use (ignore the names on them) top or bottom? as its the top one that does more damage to the SATA port activity/usage
Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Owners Thread.
- Thread starter stulid
- Start date
You need to have the app center installed to use any of the others.
I used SIV sometimes to check the temps etc, And Easytune for windows based overclocking as per the video in the opening post.
Thats about it, I think I used the ambient LED app once to change the colour of the LED but you can do that in BIOS.
Oh and you might find ON/OFF charge useful.
I used SIV sometimes to check the temps etc, And Easytune for windows based overclocking as per the video in the opening post.
Thats about it, I think I used the ambient LED app once to change the colour of the LED but you can do that in BIOS.
Oh and you might find ON/OFF charge useful.
Phanteks case usually have a simple fan control board on the back that takes power from PSU and sends it to the case fans, then there is a cable from it that you attach to say a system fan header for control/rpm sensing.
There is CPU OPT.
I have a Phnatkes case and the fan controller board isnt the greatest ever.
In fact, what i have done before is pull all the cables from it and stick them all to the motherboard fan headers and used the SIV calibration to control them.
Then you have quiet, standard, performance modes to pick from.
I have a Phnatkes case and the fan controller board isnt the greatest ever.
In fact, what i have done before is pull all the cables from it and stick them all to the motherboard fan headers and used the SIV calibration to control them.
Then you have quiet, standard, performance modes to pick from.
socket 1156/55/50/51 all the same fitting.
Bet its the AIO cooler.
Pull its USB cable out and see if it ever repeats that.
Pull its USB cable out and see if it ever repeats that.
The plastic does not extend beyond the I/O plate itself,
Thats almost straight on with me holding the plate roughly in place, no plastic is visible top or sides.
Thats almost straight on with me holding the plate roughly in place, no plastic is visible top or sides.
Hmmmm.
Check the LINK software is the latest and the firmware (yes it has firmware..wouldnt believe it considering its a damn water pump)...is also latest.
Check the LINK software is the latest and the firmware (yes it has firmware..wouldnt believe it considering its a damn water pump)...is also latest.
I kinda knew it was the cooler as Ive seen the same with my H110i GT.
Its thrown that error up once or twice.
But ive RMA'd my AIO as the temps were not holding stable and even at idle they were nearly 20C higher than it should be and thats with the pump and fans on Performance settings.
Try gaming etc and it couldnt keep it under control and the fluid temp would just slowly rise and rise.
But according to LINK and SIV the pump is spinning and the fans visibly are.
I do not know if the two issues are related.
So my next advice would be to open realtempGT or something and just watch the temperatures while idle/in use and see if they are where you would expect them to be.
Its thrown that error up once or twice.
But ive RMA'd my AIO as the temps were not holding stable and even at idle they were nearly 20C higher than it should be and thats with the pump and fans on Performance settings.
Try gaming etc and it couldnt keep it under control and the fluid temp would just slowly rise and rise.
But according to LINK and SIV the pump is spinning and the fans visibly are.
I do not know if the two issues are related.
So my next advice would be to open realtempGT or something and just watch the temperatures while idle/in use and see if they are where you would expect them to be.
Remove LINK and all traces of Corsair.
I believe winn10 has USB drivers already.
Theres only INF, ME, Sound, LAN and thats it (plus the storage thing which isnt needed).
I believe winn10 has USB drivers already.
Theres only INF, ME, Sound, LAN and thats it (plus the storage thing which isnt needed).
I did,
Win10
Intel INF
Intel management engine
GFX
Audio
Lan
In that order.
then windows updates.
Considering you are using a 120mm AIO I suppose thats ok plus as you mention its been a bit warmer lately.
70c is nothing to worry about especially using XTU which will stress the cpu more than other everyday task will.
Ive been using a Ducky all the time.
70c is nothing to worry about especially using XTU which will stress the cpu more than other everyday task will.
Ive been using a Ducky all the time.
I set to Full speed in the BIOS, if you use SIV then its going to calibrate the fans on start up first time.
So you then need to go the CPU fan control in SIV and select fixed rpm and push it towards the max setting, then click apply.
I did that just in case SIV tried to override the BIOS full speed option some how.
So you then need to go the CPU fan control in SIV and select fixed rpm and push it towards the max setting, then click apply.
I did that just in case SIV tried to override the BIOS full speed option some how.
Before I had a failure on my AIO i set it to performance on the pump and didnt notice any increase in noise but the temps were a wee bit better.
Had to have it on performance and fans on maximum rpm just to keep it under 60c at idle LOL.
Maybe list everything you need?
Size of board
SLI or Crossfire
RGB colour etc
Number of SATA+USB, m.2 or u.2 etc.
Good onboard sound or average
Budget (what you would prefer to spend rather than just spend for the sake of it)
Maybe this,
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/giga...cket-1151-ddr4-atx-motherboard-mb-530-gi.html
If your after a 6600K its also in a bundle - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/giga...-6600k-bundle-20-pounds-saving-bu-021-gi.html
F8L - http://uk.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5481#bios
F8O - http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
The one from Tweaktown will be a legit BetaBIOS from Gigabyte and safe to use if you don't mind trying BetaBIOSes.
F8O - http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
The one from Tweaktown will be a legit BetaBIOS from Gigabyte and safe to use if you don't mind trying BetaBIOSes.
Sure
Size of board Standard (Micro-ATX?)
SLI or Crossfire Not required
RGB colour etc Not fussed
Number of SATA+USB, m.2 or u.2 etc. Only need a few SATA/USB, nothing out of the ordinary. Do want ideally a couple of m.2 slots for fast SSDs
Good onboard sound or average Currently using a SB X-Fi but ideally want to replace with onboard sound. Needs to be decent for gaming etc but not audiophile quality
Budget (what you would prefer to spend rather than just spend for the sake of it) £100-£150 ish
Sounds like you want a Gaming K3, a board ATX in size (which I think is standard rather than mATX) and will run a single card only (it does support crossfire but at 16X/4X rather than 8X/8X) a single m.2 and some SATA and USB.
Disable all the other boot devices, have the OS drive only 1st and only.