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reallycoolseeds website not working for anyone else?
Growing Chillies
- Thread starter NickK
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I think they've changed the website.
http://www.peppersbypost.biz/dorsetnaga/index.html
Shows up now as peppers by post.
Here are mine, been going prob 5/6 weeks now. They have been kept in the house till now unless its a really sunny day in which case I'll put them in the garden. I am now keeping them in the garage with a south facing window to try to toughen them up a bit before moving them outside in a few weeks when all risk of frost has gone.
I re-potted them at the weekend to hopefully their final pots, with gravel at the bottom for drainage, and a mix of pearlite, compost and sieved soil. Hopefully I should get some good crops
Please excuse crap phone pics 
Ignore front right, thats an Aubergine. I'm growing lots this year!
Do they look like they should? First time growing chillies!!
Might be my first time growing chillies dude but I have green fingers, and these look nothing like that
I re-potted them at the weekend to hopefully their final pots, with gravel at the bottom for drainage, and a mix of pearlite, compost and sieved soil. Hopefully I should get some good crops
Please excuse crap phone pics
Ignore front right, thats an Aubergine. I'm growing lots this year!
Do they look like they should? First time growing chillies!!
mjones1 said:
Might be my first time growing chillies dude but I have green fingers, and these look nothing like that
Short update - those that have Nagas/Bhuts take note.. this is what happens when you repot from 12 cm to 21 cm..
Spot the naga..
From the top of the base of the plant..
Now this is annoying.. they've dropped their stem leaves (except the one right at the back) which makes me think that there's a draught. Also these are too big for the space
so I'm going to have to find a friendly fellow to rehome them. Possibly start again with smaller pots.
This is a very happy ikkle naga left in it's inital 12 cm pot done as a seedling.. stress free.. this is one of the late germinators. I decided to leave it in it's small pot.
Still probably going to be a medium sized plant but the leaves and flowering look much better than the big nagas.
Spot the naga..
From the top of the base of the plant..
Now this is annoying.. they've dropped their stem leaves (except the one right at the back) which makes me think that there's a draught. Also these are too big for the space
so I'm going to have to find a friendly fellow to rehome them. Possibly start again with smaller pots.This is a very happy ikkle naga left in it's inital 12 cm pot done as a seedling.. stress free.. this is one of the late germinators. I decided to leave it in it's small pot.
Still probably going to be a medium sized plant but the leaves and flowering look much better than the big nagas.
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They're an inert mineral that has been heated to a high temperature which causes them to expand leaving lattice structure.
Pearlite - hard, white and has the consistency of Cruchie honeycomb. Will store water.
Vermiculite - soft squeezy, brown/bronze looking and stores water.
When mixed into soil they prevent it from packing hard which allows the water to drain through leaving it moist but not waterlogged and prevents the roots from suffocating.
Chilli plants hate (and I mean hate) having their roots in standing water. It's better to let them wilt with dehydration and then place the pot into a bucket of water to soak for 5-10 minutes then let drain before placing back into position. The Nagas get this once a week, or so.
Watering from the top is ok, although you may not get a good penetration (the water may channel out to the bottom of the pot).
The pots you chose should have holes at the bottom to allow excess water to drain out (and obviously in for this better soak based watering).
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thx for the info, are both these available from garden centers or b&q??
Soldato
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- 18 Oct 2002
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they will pick back up
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
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- 8,920
not long. mine sorted themselves out in an hour or 2
Once repotted, I'd start:
a) only watering in the morning - this means the top of the pot has chance to dry out a little which prevents mold. Watering in the evening means you'll get a lot of humidity and that will encourage mould.
b) water by feel initially - does it feel dry? Is the pot light? then you'll get into a rhythm of watering. If it does feel bone light (oops!) then just stand the pot in water for 10 minutes then let it drain. Bottom up watering is far better.
c) once they've perked up again and settled in for a week, start by leaving an air gap and then move to removing the lid during the day and (whilst they fit) during the night replacing the lid. Finally they should (as long as it's not a cold night) be fine.
edit: I think my nagas took a couple of days to get back but I did take the casing of the Jiffy pellet off which breaks the roots that have penetrated it. It's a little shocking at first!
a) only watering in the morning - this means the top of the pot has chance to dry out a little which prevents mold. Watering in the evening means you'll get a lot of humidity and that will encourage mould.
b) water by feel initially - does it feel dry? Is the pot light? then you'll get into a rhythm of watering. If it does feel bone light (oops!) then just stand the pot in water for 10 minutes then let it drain. Bottom up watering is far better.
c) once they've perked up again and settled in for a week, start by leaving an air gap and then move to removing the lid during the day and (whilst they fit) during the night replacing the lid. Finally they should (as long as it's not a cold night) be fine.
edit: I think my nagas took a couple of days to get back but I did take the casing of the Jiffy pellet off which breaks the roots that have penetrated it. It's a little shocking at first!
They haven't grown any more and 5 of them have collapsed. I don't think it's enough light. Put them in the windowsill which gets the mourning sun and 2 of them are back up standing tall. But I only have a windowsill that catch the mourning or afternoon sun.. Wish I went straight to cfl instead of led. Will have to see how much my MOT will cost on friday.
Sometimes they'll loose leaves so I don't think you need to worry too much about them.
If they drink all the water then the bottom leaves droop first - they look like and feel like old 5 pound notes. Given water they'll get back to normal and feeling like a crisp fiver again.
If the top droops then that shock - cold, too much sun, severe under-watering and often over-watering or over-feeding.
Wait till they're growing again, then slowly introduce them to cooler temps - then you can move them out of the propagator completely. Once out, they will probably require less water as the heat from the prop will not be evaporating the moisture.
Lastly - these are babies, so careful with placing them immediately in full sunlight.. 'ween' them in by 2 hrs, 3 hrs etc.. slowly increasing the light as they grow. You may need to shade them initially if you want to leave them on the window sill.
Sounds like the right diagnosis. My plants got to a certain point with the Light Engine (LED) but were spindly 'leggy' and needed sticks to support them. Once they had the MH light *boom* they grew.. careful though if they're bent and left to have bent stems the adult plant will have bent stems too which is a right royal pain in the butt (they tip over the pot and require support).
I came to the conclusion that the technology is too immature at the moment after seeing the results of the MH/HPS.
You could ebay the LEDs once you have your CFL to recoup some of the cost. Minimum you'll want is probably 250W. The 125W will just be another 'stepping stone'. Remember once you have it, you can use it in conjunction with the natural daylight to supplement the amount of light (ie in the morning CFL, then day under daylight, then evening CFL). This reduces the running costs.
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