Has anybody had any problems with Mayhems X1?

OLDPHART said:
Ah l see, well tubing is going to be cheaper than fittings but they don't make 16/11, will you get the same issue again with another make say XSPC..
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Yeah...
I will try to use their tube, but I asked them if they could advise another brand/model of tube in 16/11mm
 
Got my box of goodies today as well. Excellent service from Ian. I also found that the tubing is too thick walled to use with 16/11mm compression fittings however I have ordered a few new 16/10mm compression fittings to use with the new tubing they have sent me. That way if this happens yet again everything in the loop is Mayhems and nothing else can be blamed. With this happening over and over again I have no faith left in any other tubing anyway. XSPC tubing leaches plasticiser, Primochill LRT advanced is stupid expensive when you have to keep replacing it and seems no better than XSPC so I will give their own a try. It seems good stuff anyway.
 
I had this kinda buildup on my old loop when I took it apart. I was using mayhem X1 UV green. I had the loop for about a year til I replaced and cleaned it out. I noticed that my res, CPU block (plexi top like yours) and tubing had a kind of rusty red kinda film around it. It wiped off with a wet cloth. I cleaned out the blocks and the res best I could and replaced the tubing. About 9 months later it had built up again. Mine didn't seem to damage anything. I just didn't get the buildup in the gpu or CPU blocks.
 
X1 clouded up my loop and was a total pain to clean up. I ditched the spare bottles and have gone back to my regular premix, I wont be touching that stuff again.
 
Just arrived Mayhems > Ultra Pure H20 5LTR, Blitz Basic Cleaning System, Biocide 10ml With PH Testing Kit and also a refund for XT-1.

Thank you Ian.
 
Cenedd said:
If the problem is tubing intolerance to ethylene glycol, Tygon E3603 is rated 'excellent' in handling it. See page 23
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Tygon R-300 UV-Resistant Acid Transfer Tubing

Versilon™ R-3400
UV-Resistant Acid Transfer Tubing

Ideal for virtually any permanent or temporary chemical transfer application, Versilon™ R-3400 tubing combines suppleness and flexibility with resistance to a wide range of chemicals. It shows exceptional resistance to strong acids and many alkalies. The flexibility of Versilon™ R-3400 tubing also makes it quick and easy to put into service, providing considerable savings on installation time and cost when compared to rigid piping systems.

Typical Applications-Acid and caustic transfer, Corrosive diffusible gases, Fertilizer and pesticide dispensing, Electrical insulation lines,Ink and adhesive dispensing.

http://www.processsystems.saint-gobain.com/versilon-r3400-tubing.aspx
 
Isn't Tygon tubes PVC? wouldn't it happen again?

Does anyone want to trade around 30x 16/11mm fittings for some 16/10mm? :D
 
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I've heard the EK ZMT can be tricky to work with. I think it's supposed to be good but if I remember correctly people were having issues with it coming out of fittings. You might want to research it but I think it was something along the lines of once you put the tube on a fitting, if you remove it you have to chop a piece off before you put it on again. This is only from memory (and mine's fading fast!) so you might want to just look into before diving in. There's a Tygon equivalent of ZMT called Norprene if that helps your research.
 
Thanks for the reply, I will have some reading later, but I'm inclined to go with theEK ZMT because it was a Mayhems's advice, so if something goes wrong again I have my side covered.
 
No problem. Wasn't suggesting you shouldn't use it, just check into it first and make sure there's nothing like incompatible fittings going to bite you! :)
 
Currently on my trusty old Dell D630 Lappy as I finally got my loop stripped on Monday and began the cleaning process (again!!). Both cpu and gpu blocks were full of blue/green sludge, the same as before. Tubing is clear but it's being replaced by the tubing that Mayhems sent me. The 10/16mm Mayhems tubing is nice stuff actually. It's thick walled but still very flexible and holds it's shape with tight bends. I had to buy some new fittings but this way the tubing, coolant (XT1 concentrate and Pure H2O) plus the cleaing stuff is all Mayhems so if it happens again it will be easier to see what's causing this. I did Blitz Part 1 yesterday and have been running part 2 overnight and will continue until after tea this evening.

The litmus paper in the Mayhems support kit is better than the electronic ph tester as there is no setting up so that's one thing they have improved. Maybe get rid of the electronic one altogether, swap it for litmus paper and lower the price of the kit to make it more affordable.

Some of my 11/16mm fittings do actually work with the 10/16mm tubing but they are the generic ones, not the branded ones. Talking of branded fittings, the crappy XSPC fittings with the coin slot have damaged the threads on my EK Thermochill block very badly. Why the hell they have a coin slot on the threaded end is beyond me. Anyway it was very sharp and I tried filing it down with a fine file but obviously didn't do a good enough job and it stripped some of the threads in the delrin block. If I can't get a replacement part it looks like I need a new block. I am really getting sick and fed up with water cooling!!
 
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Thanks for the heads up on the XSPC fittings. Will avoid those!
How damaged are the threads; could they be saved by running a G1/4 tap through them?
 
Just tried that and they are well and truly knackered. Can't tighten the fittings at all now so I just ordered a EK-FC Terminal from OCUK. Unfotunately the only single that EK sells is clear plexi and not black like the original. Cheaper than a new block though. Now to chill out and bake a cake as I can't do anything else until the Blitz part 2 process finishes.
 
Colour change issues within a water cooling system.

Advisory

We at Mayhems has been doing some extra investigations due to our new support system. We have found issues with flux used by some radiator manufacturers that has not been fully removed pre sale of the rads. This flux can stay with in a system for a very long period of time and can be directly related to issues reference colour change of lighter colours such as Yellow, Orange and Red.

Mayhems suggest the following.

At bare minimum ALL Rads should be flushed with flowing hot tap water (40c to 60c) to help remove and loosen off the water soluble flux from the manufacturing process. For a minimum of 30 minutes.

You can Improve and speed up this process by using Part 2 of the Mayhems Blitz Kit with hot water to aid and speed up this cleaning. Flush with hot water afterwards is still required.


To avoid any favouritism this should be applied to ALL Radiator manufacturers or OEM Radiators
 
Well just been doing a bit online research its amazing how hard it is to get a Datasheet on PC coolants XSPC, EK Koolant, etc to see what they contain especially Ethylene Glycol or alike.

Ethylene Glycol is corrosive and if a PC coolant contains this it should have a warming saying it could effect your tubing on the container.

On my first custom loop l used EC6 Clear and had no issues what so ever, after two years my temps were the same.
 
Its illegal to not hand out MSDS / SDS sheets for coolants or have them accessible, you can request them from the manufacturers and if the product is sold in the EU its should follow strict REACH regulations. If not the company can be fined upwards of £20,000 and face a 5 year jail sentence.

Mayhems is fully REACH complaint. This has been checked and we also follow USA guidelines and china guide lines too. We are also working towards ISO 9001.
 
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