Help me stop my desk from going saggy

FrozenShivers · 1 Apr 2022 at 08:31

Sorry to bump an old thread, but seen this thread and it had relevant information so I figured best not to create another one! I have a 200cmx63.5cmx4cm Oak worktop from Worktop Express arriving next week, I'll be putting steel box section legs from The Hairpin Leg Co. I will have an aquarium on the desk, it will be directly above one of the legs, it will weigh around 100KG total and this weight will be spread through a 60cmx45cm footprint. I was thinking of grabbing one of the Uni Channel Struts mentioned above. Do you think this would be ok?

Tephnos · 17 Aug 2022 at 16:08

MrRockliffe said:
A few dome-head screws and 25mm outer diameter washers from Screwfix. One in every third slot.

It's holding up well, incredibly sturdy - can't see it going anywhere soon

Here's what I went with:

3 years on - has it resisted deflection entirely? No sag whatsoever if you throw a level on the desk? (Maybe the front has a bit?)

MrRockliffe · 17 Aug 2022 at 16:32

Tephnos said:
3 years on - has it resisted deflection entirely? No sag whatsoever if you throw a level on the desk? (Maybe the front has a bit?)

So I actually got rid of it last year, and when doing so, I noticed that the front of it had began to sag, but the rear (where the beams had been screwed in) were absolutely fine.

If I were to do this again, I'd try and find something lower profile, and install the beams more centrally. The reason I didn't is because my knees would hit the metal.

Tephnos · 17 Aug 2022 at 18:23

MrRockliffe said:
So I actually got rid of it last year, and when doing so, I noticed that the front of it had began to sag, but the rear (where the beams had been screwed in) were absolutely fine.

If I were to do this again, I'd try and find something lower profile, and install the beams more centrally. The reason I didn't is because my knees would hit the metal.

You might be better off using a router to recess the beams flush with the underside next time.

I don't think going for a flat piece of metal would work. You'd need the right angle strength to prevent the metal from slowly deflecting, too.

MrRockliffe · 17 Aug 2022 at 18:51

Tephnos said:
You might be better off using a router to recess the beams flush with the underside next time.

I don't think going for a flat piece of metal would work. You'd need the right angle strength to prevent the metal from slowly deflecting, too.

Agreed, but the beams I used were quite thick - I’m sure I could find one smaller

Scam · 25 Mar 2024 at 08:42

Bumping an old thread, seen as this one is specific to stopping desk sagging.

I have an Ikea Karlby 246mm worktop arriving this Friday, with two Alex drawers and the Alex storage as well to go underneath. The “gap” to sit in will be 138cm.

I definitely want to get some sort of steel to prevent sagging (and to clip cables to). Besides the couple of links mentioned where could I get such a thing? I have a Wickes or B&Q near me (but no car

)
Or if online, what the heck are they called? TIA.

alexakasloth · 25 Mar 2024 at 09:03

Scam said:
Bumping an old thread, seen as this one is specific to stopping desk sagging.

I have an Ikea Karlby 246mm worktop arriving this Friday, with two Alex drawers and the Alex storage as well to go underneath. The “gap” to sit in will be 138cm.

I definitely want to get some sort of steel to prevent sagging (and to clip cables to). Besides the couple of links mentioned where could I get such a thing? I have a Wickes or B&Q near me (but no car )
Or if online, what the heck are they called? TIA.

Angle steel, both B and Q and Wickes should stock them.
First thing I would try is to screw something like this along the back edge of the gap:

Varnished Cold-pressed steel Equal L-shaped Angle profile, (L)1m (W)38mm | DIY at B&Q

This varnished steel corner is suitable for general repairing, renewing and creation projects.

www.diy.com

Assuming the worktop is the 38mm thickness version.

Richie · 25 Mar 2024 at 09:04

Google "Slotted Angle Iron "

Scam · 25 Mar 2024 at 11:54

alexakasloth said:
Angle steel, both B and Q and Wickes should stock them.
First thing I would try is to screw something like this along the back edge of the gap:

Perfect thanks. And a 1m long would be perfect for the 138cm gap right? (Without going into all of the maths!)

Second question as I'm a total DIY layman... How exactly would one attach that?

Drill tiny pilot holes and just use short (<15mm?) screws? I see someone mentioned using washers too?

Anything more complicated than that? I don't want to fubar my lovely worktop!

alexakasloth · 25 Mar 2024 at 12:09

@Scam

It would cover most of it, so should give the support it requires. As I said it would be the first thing I would try and go from there, however I would be suprised if it still requires more support after that.

Yes, pilot some holes with a small drill bit (the drill bit needs to be thinner than the shank of the screw), then screw in, perhaps 4 under and 4 at the back. Shouldn't need washers.

Scam · 25 Mar 2024 at 12:13

alexakasloth said:
perhaps 4 under and 4 at the back

Cheers. You mean to the wall? Didnt think that would be necessary - the steel itself should stop any sagging right? and I wasn’t going to mount it flush to the wall anyway.

MrRockliffe · 25 Mar 2024 at 12:21

Scam said:
Perfect thanks. And a 1m long would be perfect for the 138cm gap right? (Without going into all of the maths!)

Second question as I'm a total DIY layman... How exactly would one attach that? Drill tiny pilot holes and just use short (<15mm?) screws? I see someone mentioned using washers too?

Anything more complicated than that? I don't want to fubar my lovely worktop!

I drilled a number of wood screws through my slotted U beam (roughly 12 from memory) and used metal washers to increase the surface area of the applied pressure on the beam.

Definitely want a drill to do this. Even though the Karlby is MDF, it's quite dense. I tapped the screws in with a hammer first, just to act as a guide.

Scam · 25 Mar 2024 at 13:24

MrRockliffe said:
I drilled a number of wood screws through my slotted U beam (roughly 12 from memory) and used metal washers to increase the surface area of the applied pressure on the beam.

I'm guessing that in this case, the more screws the better? To spread the load?

alexakasloth · 25 Mar 2024 at 14:02

Scam said:
Cheers. You mean to the wall? Didnt think that would be necessary - the steel itself should stop any sagging right? and I wasn’t going to mount it flush to the wall anyway.

Not to the wall no, to the back edge of the desk. So that the L profile is 'hugging' it.

jpaul · 25 Mar 2024 at 15:18

I subsequently watched video on MDF/ikea strength vs ply/solid

another stronger? surface option a door https://www.atlantictimber.co.uk/internal-pre-finished-oak-augusta-door.html
think we discussed those somewhere in the past.

Scam · 25 Mar 2024 at 16:30

alexakasloth said:
Not to the wall no, to the back edge of the desk. So that the L profile is 'hugging' it.

Oh I see. Interesting, do you think that provides more strength? Probably still won't stop the front sagging though.

And means you cant cable-tie your cables to it either.

alexakasloth · 25 Mar 2024 at 17:01

Scam said:
Oh I see. Interesting, do you think that provides more strength? Probably still won't stop the front sagging though.

And means you cant cable-tie your cables to it either.

Screwing into the back would offer more support, and you can use longer screws. If the back part is well supported and doesn't sag the front shouldn't.

For cable management a few large screw hooks should do the trick.

wsurfa · 28 Mar 2024 at 06:12

I made mine from a sheet of 4x2 18mm ply. I made aprons of c10cm height and 2 x 18mm sandwiched, this was OK for the front, but the rear needed a length of angle iron added to stop sag.

Having twin 27" monitors on an arm puts a lot of weight through a small area, but the angle iron has stopped most/all of the sag.

Scam · 30 Mar 2024 at 08:56

Alright guys the Alex drawers are all built and the desk is getting put together today once we’ve done our food shopping and got a nice bit of lamb from the butchers

Question re the steel (purchased yesterday).. Am I right in that it’d be more tidy/easy to have the L ledge “facing” the back? IE so if you’re looking underneath the desk from the front you’d see the vertical edge of it, and the upside down “shelf” is on the backside?

I’d assumed I’d do it the other way but realised for any cables that need to come up the middle of the desk (monitor, keyboard etc) they’d be stuck on the front side of the vertical and it’d look messy bending them across it.

With the upside down “shelf” facing backwards, it’s slightly more faff to get under the desk and tie them all up, but at least those monitor etc cables are free to come straight up the back. Make sense?

(A diagram would be easier, but I’m on my phone blah)

Scam · 30 Mar 2024 at 16:55

I'm a total clown. Desk build going well, very happy. The grey/blue clashes a little with the colour on the walls but meh. They don't make them in black anymore and white would have looked cheap (imo). I don't think you'll notice much when the room is darker and has stuff on/in.

But, I'm an idiot. Got all the way to this stage, my monitor arm arrived an hour ago. Let's get cracking on installing anything.

Oh yeah, the Alex storage cupboard has a back. No holes for PC cables. What a numpty

I don't own a jigsaw or multitool... Do I just run out and buy one, and start making random holes in the back? I figure the weight is being taken by the drawers on the left so no need to worry too much. What do you think? Any particular shapes/sizes I should aim for? :confused:

Some airflow would be good, maybe big hole at the bottom for cables, a few small (~7-8mm) holes along the top for air to escape?

EDIT: The worktop is not attached, we've twizeled the left two drawers/storage round so I they're side on and I can easily get to the back for drilling. Just not sure what to do