Hive, really??

right, bought an unused unit off the bay, just for a combi boiler, installed in 5 mins and working, one question, i have an unused scratch panel code what is this for as i can use it fully without this? or am i missing something?

code is for setting up an account, just set one up and did not need it
 
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Another one jumping on the bandwagon:

I've got a Drayton LP722 programmer, what Hive would I buy and how easy is it to replace? Been trying to look and see if it's a straight swap like mentioned for others in this thread but can't my search skills are failing me!

Not sure if it matters but boiler is a Potterton Suprima fairly old (13years ish?) With hot water tank in airing cupboard etc. ...

Any help or advice much appreciated!
 
richieboy said:
Another one jumping on the bandwagon:

I've got a Drayton LP722 programmer, what Hive would I buy and how easy is it to replace? Been trying to look and see if it's a straight swap like mentioned for others in this thread but can't my search skills are failing me!

Not sure if it matters but boiler is a Potterton Suprima fairly old (13years ish?) With hot water tank in airing cupboard etc. ...

Any help or advice much appreciated!
Click to expand...

You need the Hive dual channel receiver (SLR2).

The backplate of the LP722 has the same layout as the Hive, but I don't think the backplate is compatible.

Remove the front of the LP722 and you'll see 6 terminals - L, N, 1, 2, 3, 4. You will certainly have wires in L, N, 3 and 4, and maybe in 1 as well.

Just transfer all the wires to the same ones on the Hive backplate & you're done - easy :)
 
Hi, hopefully I am not too late to this thread....

I have a Worcester Bosch boiler that supplies central heating, and water heating to a cylinder.

The boiler is serviced by a British Gas UP2 programmer and a WR1 receiver that links to a wireless thermostat elsewhere in the house.

The set up is shown in the below picture...



I am hoping to replace this with a Hive 2 Channel controller.

Is it just a simple case of removing the WR1 entirely and replicating the wiring in the UP2 Programmer in the Hive controller or is it more complex than that?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Yeah pretty much, do away with the WR1 and replace the UP2 with the hive reciever unit.
 
get a nest instead. you can buy them with installation too for a few quid more. well worth it as the nest works with other nest products and is much more pleasing to use and aesthetically
 
It also needs a power supply for the stat, which in my case would mean hard wiring a feed into my hall. Hive this isn’t an issue.
 
Hi again,

Well after removing my UP2 front plate it seems that I do not have a HW OFF and a CH OFF wire, but I understand that these are not necessary. So happy days.

01.jpg


From reading around it seems that I now need to remove my WR1 wireless receiver from the the system. From what I have read this is done by linking the "live" and "switched live" wires.

Now this is where I get a bit lost. My wiring junction box is shown below. The wire from the WR1 is the left most cable entering the junction box.

02.jpg


03.jpg


The feed from the WR1 has five wires:

- Brown: this goes to a set of common live wires in the middle of the junction box.
- Blue: this goes to a set of common neutral wires in the middle of the junction box.
- Green/yellow: this goes to a set of common earth wires in the middle of the junction box.
- Black: this enters port #2 which is labeled "Call" and is linked by a red jumper to "HTG Brown".
- Grey: this enters port #3 which is labeled "Com" and is linked by a red jumper to "HTG On".

So the question is what modifications do I need to make in the junction box to remove the WR1 from the system and allow the new Hive system to work? Presumably I could just remove the wires at the WR1 unit and make the changes at that end using terminal block, but that would probably be a bit untidy!

Thanks for any support!
 
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The red link 9 to 3 needs to be moved so it goes 9 to 4

Remove the red link 2 to 4

And then remove all the WR1 wiring and WR1 it’s self.
 
Many thanks.

My first thought was to link "HTG Brown" (#4) to "HTG On" (#9) to close the circuit, but I was not confident!

I'll let you know how I get on!

Thanks again.
 
OK, so I have removed the WR1 from the system and updated my wiring accordingly....

04.jpg


When turning the boiler back on it seems to go through its normal process of firing to keep its internal temperature in the specified range. The boiler is a Worcester Green Star 40CDI.

However, when trying to test the Hive install by pressing the "Heating On" button on the Hive programmer, the boiler failed to fire. The boiler also failed to fire when pressing the "Water On" bottom on the programmer. So I am not sure that the install is correct (i.e. the Hive programmer does not seem to directly fire the boiler).

I did also note that the boiler flashed the code "-¦¦-" in the display, which seems to be related to commissioning mode after the boiler has been turned off.

Do you think I will need to wait 30 mins until commissioning mode is complete before I can test the Hive install?

The Hive Hub, Controller and thermostat all seem to communicate ok (green lights across the board).

Thoughts?
 
Your old timeclock has an internal common, I'm guessing the Hive doesn't have this, which is why you have no switching power to the 2 motorized valves. Hence no Ch/Dhw.
You need to manually put the links in the backplate. Follow the Hive installation book for an S-PLAN to do this.

Mick
 
Ps that weird symbol on the boiler is just it's 15min condensate Syphon fill program. Nothing to worry about, but you won't get maximum output until it's complete.

Mick
 
Hi, any chance you could provide a bit more info. The installation information I have does not mention S-Plan. So not sure what to do differently.
 
Do the diverter valves motor from A>B when heating or hot water is engaged? You don't need to add a common link on the dual channel Hive only the single. It should just be wired N>L HW 3>CH 4

Do you have a multimeter to check for power at the junction box connections?
 
Your error code, quoted from the engineers booklet

. The gradient limitation is active. The primary temperature is rising too fast and the burner has switched off for 2 minutes.

By the sound of things you have circulation issues. Have the motorized valves opened up with your demand?
 
You need to check your valves are moving when the hive is asking to CH or DHW, once they are moving you need to check you are getting power at connection 12.
 
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