I update my install every month without fail. I do back up the VM machine and ensure HA backups are made before install but I've only had one issue in five odd years of using HA (my Hive valves and thermostat). Always read the change log first before updating though in case there are breaking changes that affect you
Home Assistant beginners
- Thread starter katie279
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I've had a nightmare with my previously rock solid system just failing to work. The ZigBee coordinator just stopped working 99% of the time. I uploaded all of the Z2M error logs to ChatGPT, it told me to buy a cheap USB 2.0 hub to plug into the mini PC's usb 3.0 slot .. and it works perfectly again
The benefits are the obvious latest features and fixes. Issues are uncommon so it's definitely a good way of testing out your restore strategy. It's also good practice to read the release notes - especially the breaking changes as that'll give you an early heads up on if you need to do something before updating.
Typically I don't bother with the X.0 release as that's the most likely to have issues and the X.1 release tends to follow soon after, so I normally aim to upgrade around the middle of the month.
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I use a 2m USB 2.0 extension cable. Keeps the coordinator clear of the mini PC and any USB 3.0 circuitry, and lets me hang the coordinator higher for better signal.
Think I have everything setup between Home Assistant and Unifi Protect.
Lights on with camera motion when dark for 2 minutes.
Basically had trigger as the camera motion, AND when dark is on.
Action of light on, followed by a 2 minute delay and finally a light off action.
Lights on with camera motion when dark for 2 minutes.
Basically had trigger as the camera motion, AND when dark is on.
Action of light on, followed by a 2 minute delay and finally a light off action.
I fitted shelly dimmers to a few rooms (including home cinema) and pleased to see I could still use the Hue Bridge Emulation to allow my Harmony remotes to see the shelly dimmers as hue lights.. great being able to do that whilst seated.. I'll now add a shelly plug plus emulated as a Hue Light to allow me to switch on/off a air purifier that is in the bulkhead with the projector/amp to keep any dust at bay..
Generally yes but it’s not maintenance free.
Some updates break stuff, some vendors mess around with their software which can break stuff. A lot of ‘smart’ devices are generally pretty flakey as a matter of course (IMO).
Some integrations rely on the IP if the device being hard coded. If the IP changes, it can break the connection. You can set fixed IPs but they are not always respected by your router etc.
Just stuff like that you have to deal with from time to time.
Some updates break stuff, some vendors mess around with their software which can break stuff. A lot of ‘smart’ devices are generally pretty flakey as a matter of course (IMO).
Some integrations rely on the IP if the device being hard coded. If the IP changes, it can break the connection. You can set fixed IPs but they are not always respected by your router etc.
Just stuff like that you have to deal with from time to time.
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As a rule I generally keep all my IPs fixed.
Going forward going to keep away from WiFi smart devices and favour ZigBee.
Took me a while to figure out the delay function for lights so they didn't start on permanently once triggered.
I'll probably avoid updating stuff for the sake of it unless I need a fix.
Going forward going to keep away from WiFi smart devices and favour ZigBee.
Took me a while to figure out the delay function for lights so they didn't start on permanently once triggered.
I'll probably avoid updating stuff for the sake of it unless I need a fix.
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I've found HA generally reliable. Most issues tend to come from updates or my own broken configurations 
As b0rn2sk8 said though, it's certainly not completely maintenance free and does require someone to keep an eye on things.
Some integrations with devices that need hubs/bridges, especially if they require internet connectivity just aren't great. I have quite a mix of Zigbee, Z-Wave and Wifi smart devices and locally processed stuff is always very fast. The only time I tend to see a bit of lag is with stuff that requires internet access to process such as Tado. I think one of the laggiest things I have setup which uses local processing is a Z-wave Association between two Fibaro Z-wave dimmers. One is wired into a double light switch on a wall while the other is in-line on a mains cable to a lamp. one of the switches on the wall can control the lamp using the Z-wave association while the other controls the main ceiling light. When switching both wall switches at the same time, the lamp is noticeably slower at reacting but we're talking a matter of milliseconds here, not seconds. I'd consider it a minor nitpick given how useful it is to be able to turn on/off and dim table lamps from the main wall light switch without having them physically connected.
As b0rn2sk8 said though, it's certainly not completely maintenance free and does require someone to keep an eye on things.Some integrations with devices that need hubs/bridges, especially if they require internet connectivity just aren't great. I have quite a mix of Zigbee, Z-Wave and Wifi smart devices and locally processed stuff is always very fast. The only time I tend to see a bit of lag is with stuff that requires internet access to process such as Tado. I think one of the laggiest things I have setup which uses local processing is a Z-wave Association between two Fibaro Z-wave dimmers. One is wired into a double light switch on a wall while the other is in-line on a mains cable to a lamp. one of the switches on the wall can control the lamp using the Z-wave association while the other controls the main ceiling light. When switching both wall switches at the same time, the lamp is noticeably slower at reacting but we're talking a matter of milliseconds here, not seconds. I'd consider it a minor nitpick given how useful it is to be able to turn on/off and dim table lamps from the main wall light switch without having them physically connected.
I set up HA back in February to monitor the performance of a new SolarEdge PV system and gather some evidence that the system wasn't behaving properly. Now it all seems to be sorted, I've been fighting with predbat and think it's now working to control the battery charging / discharging based upon import/export tariff, solar forecast and house consumption. Clever stuff if it works as expected.
I've only scratched the surface of HA though and am wondering whether the next unnecessary-but-fun project should be to integrate the wired house alarm (Veritas R8) so I can remotely see the armed and triggered status. One approach would be to use something like an ESP32 and opto-isolators to interface with the control panel and a remote keypad. Another possiility would be to have a microphone and listen for the armed / disarmed / alarm noises. Has anyone done anything like this and have any pointers?
I've only scratched the surface of HA though and am wondering whether the next unnecessary-but-fun project should be to integrate the wired house alarm (Veritas R8) so I can remotely see the armed and triggered status. One approach would be to use something like an ESP32 and opto-isolators to interface with the control panel and a remote keypad. Another possiility would be to have a microphone and listen for the armed / disarmed / alarm noises. Has anyone done anything like this and have any pointers?
If the alarm supports MQTT, you could use this: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/alarm_control_panel.mqtt/ I know it works with Texecom alarm panels that have the SmartCom or ComIP modules
Thanks for the thoughts. Sadly the Texecom Veritas R8 doesn't have any data interface (or option to add one), and I'd have to 'tap in' to the 12V siren output on the control panel and the set/unset LEDs on a spare remote keypad. I've also looked to see if anyone has managed to reverse-engineer the serial comms between the control panel and keypads, but no luck.
The newer/smarter panels like the Elite 24 look as if they use a different remote keypad which is all doable but would mean more than some rewiring and swearing in the airing cupboard.
Meanwhile predbat seems to be working and charging/discharging the batteries at sensible times. There are a couple of repeating warnings in the logs that currently have me puzzled though.
Do you have a link to download workstation?
Really struggling, they don't make it easy!
What's the go to for Air Quality sensors? Just pick up one of the millions from Ali Express, the Ikea one or something else? Not sure i'm capable/bothered at this point to mess with the ESP boards
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Not to worry, sorted that bit
However, getting it to autostart is a pain!
I have created a task in scheduler (Windows 10 install); it seems to fire up but I can't then actually do anything with it. It's inaccessible from VMWare Workstation as it says I have to 'take ownership' which F's it up, and it doesn't seem to actually fire up HA either! None of the apps, the URL etc doesn't work
Any ideas?
My workstation installation doesn't seem to have 'autostart' either
I'm just using a startup script that runs when my server logs in. The servers on 24/7 and generally only restarts/shuts down when I initiate it:
Code:
"C:\Program Files (x86)\VMware\VMware Workstation\vmrun.exe" start "C:\VM\ha-box-of-dreams.vmx"The "take Ownership" message usually only appears when VMWare detects the VM is in use already, either because it's running or because there's still a lck file in place. Are you 100% sure the VM isn't already running when the task scheduler runs the script again? The VM should be visible in task manager and show if it's running or not.