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Where did 'bronze rated PSU's' come into the discussion? Obviously compare like for like. So 750W platinum vs 850w platinum, vs 1000w platinum. Eliminate the amount of variables, that way you can come to a sensible conclusion.
Isn't that like driving a Ferrari in one gear?Severely undervolted the 3090 and played warzone all night there. My total system load was 280w which was about what I had with my tuned vega56. Except now Im running 4k >90fps, insane.
Isn't that like driving a Ferrari in one gear?
So many people who are clueless giving their "expert" advice. The idea that you're saving money by spending £150 on a new 1000W PSU to avoid running outside of your "efficiency sweet spot" is absolute nonsense. Looking at the efficiency curve for my particular unit, the difference between 300W and the full 750W is 2%. 2%. And it's still 90% efficient under those less than "ideal" conditions. I'm sure that's really going to add up on the electricity bill. Maybe if I use it maxed out 24/7 for the next few decades I might creep up towards what a new PSU would cost.Just because it works doesn't mean it's ideal. You want to be running a PSU at between 50-70% load to be in it's efficiency sweet spot. That way it's more efficient (costs less to run), runs cooler (less heat in summer etc) and will last longer.
Running a 650 or 750w at 90%+ usage is a foolish choice.
aretek said:This particular unit is also rated for its full 750W draw on the 12V rails
as a sustained load at 50 degrees celsius. A temperature that it won't be getting anywhere near in actual real-world use. PSU reviewers struggle to get anywhere near that even in torture testing with hot boxes designed specifically to get the PSU as hot as possible. Looking at the JG review, 44 degrees was the hottest he ever managed to get it even under those conditions.
This is one reason why it's a good idea to have some headroom.And it's not even sustained load which is causing problems for certain units with these cards for that matter. They're shutting down due to transient spikes tripping poorly-set (or covering for poorly-built platforms) OCP or OPP.
So, in the middle of a Doom session today and my PC froze for the first time since I got the 3090. No obvious reason but perhaps replacing the PSU is a sensible thing to do as it's 6 years old and it's probably on the limit in my system. Quite difficult to find a decent 850w PSU that isn't out of stock so went for this one as it gets decent reviews and is actually available to buy!
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/supe...old-modular-power-supply-black-ca-066-sf.html
I've just taken current readings from the mains input to my system (GTX1070 + R5 3600)
Win10 Desktop 126w
Prime95 169w
Heaven Benchmark 259w
Furmark stress test 363w
These are the highest readings I saw after a few minutes of each test.
GTX1070 is rated at ~150w. The elusive RTX3080 is ~320w. If I assume the 3080 uses 200w more than my 1070, my highest power load would be around 560w. I think my 650w PSU would cope fairly well.
So many people who are clueless giving their "expert" advice. The idea that you're saving money by spending £150 on a new 1000W PSU to avoid running outside of your "efficiency sweet spot" is absolute nonsense. Looking at the efficiency curve for my particular unit, the difference between 300W and the full 750W is 2%. 2%. And it's still 90% efficient under those less than "ideal" conditions. I'm sure that's really going to add up on the electricity bill. Maybe if I use it maxed out 24/7 for the next few decades I might creep up towards what a new PSU would cost.
This particular unit is also rated for its full 750W draw on the 12V rail, as a sustained load at 50 degrees celsius. A temperature that it won't be getting anywhere near in actual real-world use. PSU reviewers struggle to get anywhere near that even in torture testing with hot boxes designed specifically to get the PSU as hot as possible. Looking at the JG review, 44 degrees was the hottest he ever managed to get it even under those conditions. And of course that's running the full 750W as a sustained load, which certainly won't be happening with the average system and these Ampere cards. Nowhere close in fact, given the power limit on most of them is in the 320-370W range. Sure, if you want to buy an AIB card and then flash it with a 480W special BIOS and then overclock the snot out of it for the sake of a few percent more performance, buy yourself a nice PSU to go with it. But unless you're running a 10900K or HEDT chip overclocked to the hilt and performing a Blender render in the background while you game, you'd be lucky to see even 500W sustained while gaming. And it's not even sustained load which is causing problems for certain units with these cards for that matter. They're shutting down due to transient spikes tripping poorly-set (or covering for poorly-built platforms) OCP or OPP.
In some cases it's the current I'm more worried about than the wattage. The transients go pretty high but it seems they might not be that long duration according to the Igor article I linked
This was my thoughts. Sure 500W is scary but if it's a spike that lasts a millionth of a second, does it even matter?Yes, there may be very short current transients, but these shouldn't cause any damage to a decent quality PSU. Sudden shutdowns could arise if these transients cause the PSU's over current protection to trigger.