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How are people with 3000 series cards faring with PSU usage?

On Corsair ICue my system draw with a 3090 Strix oc with 480w, 3950x and ram, 3x m.2, 14 fans. Aquaero 6xt and 2 D5 pumps my system is reporting up to 680W on full load
 
Where did 'bronze rated PSU's' come into the discussion? Obviously compare like for like. So 750W platinum vs 850w platinum, vs 1000w platinum. Eliminate the amount of variables, that way you can come to a sensible conclusion.

If you mentioned that bronze rated PSU's should be ignored, I apologise for not noticing that "Running a 650 or 750w at 90%+ usage is a foolish choice." mentioned that fact.
 
Using a XFX 750W (7-8 years old) with an Asus 3080 TUF OC. No issues, all seems cool and quiet. Previous card was the EVGA 1080Ti FTW3.

It's an old system that I looked to upgrade many times, but never needed to. It's usually left on 24/7. Will probably replace with AMD's 59##x.

HAF XB (cube case)
  • GA z77x-D3H
  • [email protected]
  • 32GB DDR3 (4x8)
  • Noctua NH-D14
  • Bitfenix Recon fan contoller
  • 2 x Noctua AF-140
  • 2 x Bequiet 80 (Idle)
  • 1 x Bequiet 140 (Idle)
  • PCI USB controller
  • PCIe X4 USB controller (takes an additional power connector)
  • 1 x Sandisk Ultra II 512GB
  • 2 x WD Blue SSD 4TB
  • 2 x WD Black 4TB
  • 1 x Blueray player

Many USB devices
  • RIFT+3 sensors
  • Lable printer
  • Barcode scanners/cradles
  • TV tuner
  • Headphones
  • Gamepad
  • Bluetooth
  • Mini analogue keyboard
  • Mouse
  • Keyboard
 
Used to own a 1200w sf leadex 2 for todays systems its not needed , run a 2700x and 2080 on a 430sf gold and about to run a 5900x and 3080 on a 650w sf leadex 3. Quality > wattage , not the other way around
 
Just because it works doesn't mean it's ideal. You want to be running a PSU at between 50-70% load to be in it's efficiency sweet spot. That way it's more efficient (costs less to run), runs cooler (less heat in summer etc) and will last longer.

Running a 650 or 750w at 90%+ usage is a foolish choice.
So many people who are clueless giving their "expert" advice. The idea that you're saving money by spending £150 on a new 1000W PSU to avoid running outside of your "efficiency sweet spot" is absolute nonsense. Looking at the efficiency curve for my particular unit, the difference between 300W and the full 750W is 2%. 2%. And it's still 90% efficient under those less than "ideal" conditions. I'm sure that's really going to add up on the electricity bill. Maybe if I use it maxed out 24/7 for the next few decades I might creep up towards what a new PSU would cost.

efficiencylpk4x.jpg


This particular unit is also rated for its full 750W draw on the 12V rail, as a sustained load at 50 degrees celsius. A temperature that it won't be getting anywhere near in actual real-world use. PSU reviewers struggle to get anywhere near that even in torture testing with hot boxes designed specifically to get the PSU as hot as possible. Looking at the JG review, 44 degrees was the hottest he ever managed to get it even under those conditions. And of course that's running the full 750W as a sustained load, which certainly won't be happening with the average system and these Ampere cards. Nowhere close in fact, given the power limit on most of them is in the 320-370W range. Sure, if you want to buy an AIB card and then flash it with a 480W special BIOS and then overclock the snot out of it for the sake of a few percent more performance, buy yourself a nice PSU to go with it. But unless you're running a 10900K or HEDT chip overclocked to the hilt and performing a Blender render in the background while you game, you'd be lucky to see even 500W sustained while gaming. And it's not even sustained load which is causing problems for certain units with these cards for that matter. They're shutting down due to transient spikes tripping poorly-set (or covering for poorly-built platforms) OCP or OPP.
 
aretek said:
This particular unit is also rated for its full 750W draw on the 12V rails

Not whilst there's any significant load on the 3.3 and 5v rail it isnt. If the total load is rated at 750w then that's the rating across ALL the rails simultaneously. If you are loading the other rails, as you tend to do when you're running fans, drives and ram etc, then it's NOT rated for the full output on one rail.

as a sustained load at 50 degrees celsius. A temperature that it won't be getting anywhere near in actual real-world use. PSU reviewers struggle to get anywhere near that even in torture testing with hot boxes designed specifically to get the PSU as hot as possible. Looking at the JG review, 44 degrees was the hottest he ever managed to get it even under those conditions.

It should be noted that they are testing the exhaust temp or ambient temp inside the psu, not the temperature of any of the components. That's a bit like saying 'no my cpu will be fine, my air temp is 40c!'.

And it's not even sustained load which is causing problems for certain units with these cards for that matter. They're shutting down due to transient spikes tripping poorly-set (or covering for poorly-built platforms) OCP or OPP.
This is one reason why it's a good idea to have some headroom.
 
I used a smart plug with built in power meter to measure mine, I haven't checked it again since swapping to the 5800X, but before it pulled 420w max during COD Warzone, 3700X with 3080 FE running off a Corsair SF600 Platinum. I should probably check again as the 5800X should pull more power and I also added an additional fan for a total of 7.
 
So, in the middle of a Doom session today and my PC froze for the first time since I got the 3090. No obvious reason but perhaps replacing the PSU is a sensible thing to do as it's 6 years old and it's probably on the limit in my system. Quite difficult to find a decent 850w PSU that isn't out of stock so went for this one as it gets decent reviews and is actually available to buy!

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/supe...old-modular-power-supply-black-ca-066-sf.html
 
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So, in the middle of a Doom session today and my PC froze for the first time since I got the 3090. No obvious reason but perhaps replacing the PSU is a sensible thing to do as it's 6 years old and it's probably on the limit in my system. Quite difficult to find a decent 850w PSU that isn't out of stock so went for this one as it gets decent reviews and is actually available to buy!

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/supe...old-modular-power-supply-black-ca-066-sf.html

Yep that's decent that. I think I found same one without the RGB lights for similar price but didnt buy it. Was thinking if Im 'upgrading' from a 750w gold, another 100w aint worth that cash, may aswell try get a 1000w one so it doesnt feel like a sidegrade..

Maybe after the craze of people prepping for their pre-orders and the December stocks come in there will be some actual 'black friday' prices. :D
 
I've just taken current readings from the mains input to my system (GTX1070 + R5 3600)

Win10 Desktop 126w

Prime95 169w

Heaven Benchmark 259w

Furmark stress test 363w

These are the highest readings I saw after a few minutes of each test.

GTX1070 is rated at ~150w. The elusive RTX3080 is ~320w. If I assume the 3080 uses 200w more than my 1070, my highest power load would be around 560w. I think my 650w PSU would cope fairly well.

In some cases it's the current I'm more worried about than the wattage. The transients go pretty high but it seems they might not be that long duration according to the Igor article I linked
 
So many people who are clueless giving their "expert" advice. The idea that you're saving money by spending £150 on a new 1000W PSU to avoid running outside of your "efficiency sweet spot" is absolute nonsense. Looking at the efficiency curve for my particular unit, the difference between 300W and the full 750W is 2%. 2%. And it's still 90% efficient under those less than "ideal" conditions. I'm sure that's really going to add up on the electricity bill. Maybe if I use it maxed out 24/7 for the next few decades I might creep up towards what a new PSU would cost.

efficiencylpk4x.jpg


This particular unit is also rated for its full 750W draw on the 12V rail, as a sustained load at 50 degrees celsius. A temperature that it won't be getting anywhere near in actual real-world use. PSU reviewers struggle to get anywhere near that even in torture testing with hot boxes designed specifically to get the PSU as hot as possible. Looking at the JG review, 44 degrees was the hottest he ever managed to get it even under those conditions. And of course that's running the full 750W as a sustained load, which certainly won't be happening with the average system and these Ampere cards. Nowhere close in fact, given the power limit on most of them is in the 320-370W range. Sure, if you want to buy an AIB card and then flash it with a 480W special BIOS and then overclock the snot out of it for the sake of a few percent more performance, buy yourself a nice PSU to go with it. But unless you're running a 10900K or HEDT chip overclocked to the hilt and performing a Blender render in the background while you game, you'd be lucky to see even 500W sustained while gaming. And it's not even sustained load which is causing problems for certain units with these cards for that matter. They're shutting down due to transient spikes tripping poorly-set (or covering for poorly-built platforms) OCP or OPP.

Yes exactly this
 
In some cases it's the current I'm more worried about than the wattage. The transients go pretty high but it seems they might not be that long duration according to the Igor article I linked

Current is proportional to wattage, assuming voltage is constant. Yes, there may be very short current transients, but these shouldn't cause any damage to a decent quality PSU. Sudden shutdowns could arise if these transients cause the PSU's over current protection to trigger.
 
my HXi 1200w I have in my system now ran both my 3090's in sli not a single problem apart from me having to use a pcie riser to get the two on the 4 slot spacing, till my MSI x570 godlike appears this week hopefully. From the wall I measured 985watts with the SLI setup with 370w bios on both cards , didn't dare run the 420w bios yet on sli as dont want anything to go bang.
 
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