I got me 3D printer, awesome!

Soldato
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Yeah the motor pulls in the filament, we even tried to push it in while it was loading. Then we tried a using a panel pin up the nozzle, but it wouldnt fit, I couldnt believe how small the holes are, as I dont think even a pin would fit.... We did notice the plastic wasnt even warm when we took it out,, so even tho the printer says its getting to 230c+, it might not be at all and I don't wand to touch it to find out.. Im am thinking though, if I took it somewhere to be sorted out, would they be able to get the parts any better then me?

So if the worst comes to the worst, the printer can use different sort of head, but Im guessing the carriage will need changing aswel to accept the E3D V6 head.

I have been trying other peoples settings in Slic3r for my printer but I keep getting quite rough prints if the print outs are slightly complicated, like I did 2 chess pieces and they printed out quite rough.


It looks to me that the hotend is not heating up. Don't trust software you haven't setup correctly.
The obvious answer is it heat it up the touch with a bit of filament. The hole is 0.04 in size.

As I said get the one hotend working first. Now shop can help you.
As for changing the head first you have to print out parts(which you can't do) you would have to print a carriage as well.
Then find the right bearings for it. Not easy.

If it printing then you have to dial it in. We all have to do that and it takes time.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#ringing will help you.
 
Soldato
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Hey, how can I keep the tape stuck down on the bed?? The printer can only take ABS filament, so it wont stick directly onto the glass,, and this blue painters tape slowly comes off and ruins the prints.

DSCF0734.jpg
 
Soldato
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Well I tried some PLA or I think it was PLA and its fine at the start of the print, but as things heat up, the motor that pulls the filament in slips and keeps clicking without any filament coming out.. It was real lucky as I was very nearly going to buy PLA.

But I have tried, glue on the glass bed and heating it ubove 100c but nothing will make the ABS stick directly onto the glass.. The painters tape was a last resort as I didnt want to use it, because I have cerebral palsy, so my hands are not that steady and Id need help to stick the tape to the bed.... The tape works yeah, it really works, but the tape comes off..

Haha... Super glue is needed I think. lol

edit: Just looked at the specs again and it says ABS and PLA...... So why does that other stuff that deuse supplied with the printer, that I think is PLA slips in the head? Might be worth getting some fresh PLA because that stuff that slips in the head sticks really well to the glass bed, and I guess thats why I think its PLA, because PLA sticks better.
 
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Soldato
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Ah yeah that was it, I read a thread about da vinci printers only could take ABS and if you used the PLA, the printer cant cool the PLA down enough as it went through the feed wheels, so it keeps slipping when things get warm. But my printer can take PLA, so whats with the slipping of the feed wheels. I tried it a few times but every time the wheels kept slipping on the plastic after about 2mins of printing...

Deuse.... The red filament thats in the cassette, is that 1.74 pla or abs, as that stuff sticks well, but it dont work more then a few mins?
 
Soldato
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That printer can do ABS and PLA. If you have your bed level you don't need any tape on it.
I used https://www.amazon.co.uk/UHU-Perman...=UTF8&qid=1489215501&sr=8-2&keywords=uhu+stic

The only reason it had tape on because I never had the right springs to get it level.
Watch that youtube video of the guy using auto level. Once you do that it may last 3-4 prints.

The clicking is because the hot end is not hot enough for the filament. That red stuff I gave you is low heat filament made by XYZ.
Or the filament is not going in to the extruder easy enough and the motor can't pull it.
Again get your bed level using Auto on the printer menu. Once you have a print let the bed cool down
before trying to take the print off.

Go and buy some PLA as that is easier to print with. But make sure you know what temps the bed\hotend has to be.
 
Soldato
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I have set the temps from what the specs say for the XYZ PLA,,, 50c for the bed and 190c for the extruder.. But it still couldnt feed it through, so I raised it by 10c and touch wood and whistle, its been printing for 5mins now so far and I havent heard the dreaded clicking yet.
 
Soldato
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I have set the temps from what the specs say for the XYZ PLA,,, 50c for the bed and 190c for the extruder.. But it still couldnt feed it through, so I raised it by 10c and touch wood and whistle, its been printing for 5mins now so far and I havent heard the dreaded clicking yet.


I already said I gave you ABS :confused:
 
Soldato
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Ah.. this red stuff on 1 of the reels you gave me, is sticking much better then the other reels you have given me, so I automatically thought that was PLA, plus the fact it doesn't like pulling it through the head?
 
Soldato
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Ah.. this red stuff on 1 of the reels you gave me, is sticking much better then the other reels you have given me, so I automatically thought that was PLA, plus the fact it doesn't like pulling it through the head?


If you and your mate took out the two hotends from there holder, then make sure the holes for the filament match up.
Go and buy yourself a reel of PLA and try that.
 
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ftPffXp.jpg

Slowly coming together now. I'm not a practical, build stuff, kind of person but it's coming together well.

3D printers are the best, helping me realise my dream of owning movie props I've wanted since I were a kid.
 
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Soldato
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My mate and I have took the heads apart again, and the left nozzle is all clogged up. We were going to change the nozzle for a new one, but we are not sure how the temp probe is stuck to the nozzle, because it cant be solder as that would melt when the nozzle heated up. So he has taken the nozzle home to try to unblock it as he has the tools at home.

Also may of figured out why the filament was slipping in the head, because the 2 fans were connected back to front, so the right fan would work with the left head and vise versa.

Now Im in search for the original filament lever, spring and screws for the left head, but Im thinking I will probably have to go to the manufactures for these,, but someone might have these on here for the divinci duo printer, or deuse I dont know if you have got these parts somewhere at home?. Also I need this black part that is missing from the extruder board, its to guide the filament to the left nozzle.


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Soldato
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Colne.... Up Norf.
Has anyone used UP branded PLA? Ive recently bought a LOT of the stuff from a local seller to me at what I consider a good price (~£8.50/kg), just wondering if ive made a mistake or not.

Im using an UP Plus at the moment, which it works perfectly with, but ive ordered an Optimus with its huge build volume so I imagine im going to be using lots in that.
 
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Soldato
Joined
17 Jul 2007
Posts
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Location
Solihull-Florida
My mate and I have took the heads apart again, and the left nozzle is all clogged up. We were going to change the nozzle for a new one, but we are not sure how the temp probe is stuck to the nozzle, because it cant be solder as that would melt when the nozzle heated up. So he has taken the nozzle home to try to unblock it as he has the tools at home.

Also may of figured out why the filament was slipping in the head, because the 2 fans were connected back to front, so the right fan would work with the left head and vise versa.

Now Im in search for the original filament lever, spring and screws for the left head, but Im thinking I will probably have to go to the manufactures for these,, but someone might have these on here for the divinci duo printer, or deuse I dont know if you have got these parts somewhere at home?. Also I need this black part that is missing from the extruder board, its to guide the filament to the left nozzle.


As said I only used the one hotend because the second one kept hitting the print. I already said you can't get parts.
The temp probe is stuck there by high heat silicon. What ever fan one the main hotend is doing then turn it the other one to match.
The fans would not cause the filament to slip. I've already told you it could be.

I have no other parts for it. Again I only used the one hotend. Are you using the auto bed level now?
 
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