So basically someone hadn't painted a straight line when doing the curved part of the ceiling originally?
I would have painted the ceiling down on to the wall without masking tape to start with. Using the masking tape to begin with creates a shunt where you have a difference in paint levels where the masking tape is occupying. Not using the masking tape to begin with means you only end up with one shunted edge on the wall. If you allow the ceiling paint long enough to cure you can then take that shunt out with a fine sand paper. Then use the frog tape yellow or similar to create the new line that the wall should finish to. Always remove the masking tape whilst the paint is still wet otherwise the paint may crack other than on the line of the masking tape and give a rough edge.
The painted surface that you apply masking tape to needs to have had several days to cure properly before applying tape to it otherwise you risk pulling the freshly painted surface off.
That's exactly what I did do The white of the ceiling went down onto what was then magnolia
Am I the only one that finds it takes 10x the time to mask up? (appreciate OPs use case is unique and makes it worth while but begs the question how you can't get up there with a ladder, but got up there with masking!)
I wondered the same. I have no idea how the masking tape was applied if it was so difficult to access.
r.e. time to mask, you get really good at it after a few jobs. I can do a metre rougly every 30 seconds ish now, fully aligned to the previous strip.
If you're quite generous with the wall paint of an edge that is not 90 degrees like that you create a helpful shunted edge in case you wish to redo the walls again sometime it makes it easier to rest the edge of the masking tape back to the same line.
Think you misunderstood what I was saying.
OP says he couldn't access wall to paint it, but can access it to apply tape. Though having just re-read the opening statement, I realise now that they can reach it at a stretch, but not reach it will enough to paint.
frog tape doesnt bleed.
But you got white on top of the tape or is that magnolia that you were going over the green with?
What I did was paint the entire ceiling, taking it quite far down the wall. Stuck the tape on, sealed the edge with white, then painted the walls green. Did two coats and looks damn good.
Due to the height and stairs, I had to use a roller with a long pole. To put the tape on, I used some ladders, and very dangerously spread myself across the ladders, wall and bannisters at full stretch to just about get the tape on. Fortunately I didn't fall off.
Watch the video you are missing the point entirely and coming with your own adviceThe bit I don't get is if you painted the whole ceiling and then put masking tape on, why you then needed to apply more white paint rather than at this stage start with the wall paint?
For those using frog tape make sure you read the instructions..you're meant to damp rag the tape to seal the orange version.
lol dude your advice needs a total health warning. Skirting before doing the walls? Rightyo. On your own with that one palI've always found the orange and green to be too harsh to stick to emulsion without somewhere pulling some off. I find it better to paint the skirting boards and door frames prior to doing the walls. If you start with getting the woodwork right you can progress to the ceiling whilst the wood has longer to dry then after a week or two of the ceiling having been done then mask up the ceiling and woodwork with the yellow frog tape since it's the most delicate.
lol dude your advice needs a total health warning. Skirting before doing the walls? Rightyo. On your own with that one pal
lol dude your advice needs a total health warning. Skirting before doing the walls? Rightyo. On your own with that one pal
The bit I don't get is if you painted the whole ceiling and then put masking tape on, why you then needed to apply more white paint rather than at this stage start with the wall paint?
I think you've missed the entire point of this thread