Inline temperature sensors

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I’m preparing to build my first custom loop and need some pointers on monitoring.

I’m hoping to find an in-line sensor that doesn’t need me to look at the sensor to keep an eye on the temps.

What options are there that connect back to the motherboard to report data? I’m using an MSI Tomahawk X570 which i don’t think has a temperature header.
 
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Nothing, is the short answer.

You’ll need a separate controller and suite to monitor water temp. There’s a host of options, Corsair, NZXT, AwquaComputer etc.

Do a bit of reading into fan controllers and their software suites, and we’ll happily answer more questions as they arise.
 
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Nothing, is the short answer.

You’ll need a separate controller and suite to monitor water temp. There’s a host of options, Corsair, NZXT, AwquaComputer etc.

Do a bit of reading into fan controllers and their software suites, and we’ll happily answer more questions as they arise.
I guess the first question is are there any to avoid?
 
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I guess the first question is are there any to avoid?

EKWB have released one that's rather rough around the edges. A lot of people like the Corsair iCUE.

I'd recommend AquaComputer, either their QUADRO or OCTO. The Aquero is likely too much for your needs, and I'd actually argue the OCTO is more feature rich and capable.

Do you plan to manage fan curves based on watwe temperature? How many fans? PWM? Pump?

Tell me about your build.
 
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Case is a Phanteks Enthoo Pro SE
Motherboard is an MSI Tomahawk X570
Water cooling parts ordered
are:
£391.66 x 1 - EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Power D-RGB P360 High Performance Watercooling Kit
£11.66 x 1 - EK Water Blocks EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Black
£4.16 x 2 - EK Water Blocks EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Black
£6.66 x 1 - EK Water Blocks EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Black
£3.29 x 1 - Bitspower Touchaqua G1/4" Low-Profile Stop Fitting - Black (2 PCS )

I’m only doing a CPU loop to start.
 
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Big fan of the new velocity blocks. I take it you've checked you have the headers and compatibility for the RGB?

Why do you want a water temp sensor?

If it's just a CPU loop, and you're handling it all from the mobo, I wouldn't bother initially tbh. Save your cash and control with CPU temp. Get into dedicated fan control when you expand the loop.

The only issue will be fans ramping when they don't need to, but you can help mitigate this with a very shallow curve until you get into high temps.
 
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And why do you want a water temp sensor?

Big fan of the new velocity blocks. I take it you've checked you have the headers and compatibility for the RGB?

If it's just a CPU loop, and you're handling it all from the mobo, I wouldn't bother initially tbh. Save your cash and control with CPU temp.

The only issue will be fans ramping when they don't need to, but you can help mitigate this with a very shallow curve until you get into high temps.

why? I guess the same could be said for water cooling!!
With regards to the headers, I kinda assumed! I’ve got ARGB headers on the board and the description of the kit says it’s compatible with Mystic light. Worst case I have so much kit that can drive ARGB stuff that I can make it work!
After all, this is my Christmas light setup...
 
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why? I guess the same could be said for water cooling!!

I was trying to establish if you're planning on monitoring water temps for curves, for a custom software sensor, or just for fun.

With regards to the headers, I kinda assumed! I’ve got ARGB headers on the board and the description of the kit says it’s compatible with Mystic light. Worst case I have so much kit that can drive ARGB stuff that I can make it work!

I'm sure you know this already, but:
Most systems operate on 5v 3 pin for digital/addressable, and 12v 4 pin for more traditional RGB. I'd double check the type, the number of headers available, and if/how the RGB components can be daisy chained.

Current RGB implementation in the industry is a mess of several standards, ecosystems, compatibilities and proprietary components / controllers. It's terrible tbh.

A short answer to your question would be to get an AquaComputer QUADRO/OCTO, water temp sensor, and consider their range of Fabwerk/RGBpx products to see what's suitable. Their customer support is excellent, and their software the best in the industry (imo of course).

The OCTO has two RGBpx outputs, which I believe control up to 60 LEDs each, and have several adapters available etc.
 
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Ah, gotcha. for me it was wanting to know that it was working so having both a hardware gauge/display I can look at and a software I can use to control/do stuff with based on the same data is what I wanted.

Knowing that different manufacturers change colours on wiring, use different plugs etc doesn’t surprise me. The same goes with the pixel manufacturers for my other light! Choose a vendor and stick with it to be sure it will all work.

Having looked at the Octo that does seem like it will do what I want and also let me add flow and other bits too.

With regards to temp monitoring, is it better to do that pre or post rad?
 
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Ah, gotcha. for me it was wanting to know that it was working so having both a hardware gauge/display I can look at and a software I can use to control/do stuff with based on the same data is what I wanted.

Knowing that different manufacturers change colours on wiring, use different plugs etc doesn’t surprise me. The same goes with the pixel manufacturers for my other light! Choose a vendor and stick with it to be sure it will all work.

Having looked at the Octo that does seem like it will do what I want and also let me add flow and other bits too.

With regards to temp monitoring, is it better to do that pre or post rad?

I tend to have my water thermistor on the reservoir output; I also monitor intake air, and exhaust.

Position of your water temperature sensors make next to no difference, you'll get a few degrees variance at the very most. You can get deeper into it by doing things like pre and post rad/component, but there's no real benefit, more just tinkering fun.

AquaComputer make an excellent range of products, and as you rightly say you can add additional sensors to your liking. Be very careful about selecting the correct models, I'd advise you email them, they're excellent.

They do also have some excellent display solutions within their VISION range. The D5 NEXT pump is particularly lovely, with built in temp sensor and fan control. If you didn't already have a pump & Res combo it would make an excellent all in one solution for you, and a stepping stone into AquaSuite.

You can create custom software sensors to calculate things like Delta T over ambient etc as well power down the machine if there's no flow, overtemp etc You can also do things like turn PWM fans completely off, and configure a boost to account for inrush current when switching them on. Handy for larger loops when say a single 360 rad and fans can do the heavy lifting until the system is loaded.

For knowing it's working, pump speed and component temp will do that far better than a water temp sensor. That being said, its imo by far the best reference for setting fan curves, and is a good indicator for when you aren't dissipating heat in the loop effectively.

The only thing I will say is that AquaComputer is a rabbit hole of obsessiveness and expense that really isn't necessary, at all. Something like a Commander Pro and iCUE will do 99% of what most people want. But it's not a serious solution with huge expandability, it's a decent enough fan controller with proprietary RGB, nothing more.

I'm planning an upgrade to incorporate dual pumps, flow sensing, SSD & VRM cooling etc. For me my computer is my hobby, so that's how I justify it to myself (and the wife :D). And I buy everything I can second hand; God bless the MM.
 
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I see what you mean about the Aquacomputer stuff. I started off looking at the octo, then saw the 6 Pro and wow do things escalate!
The sensible part of me is thinking about getting the fittings for the loop installed when I do it and waiting for the right price on a controller.

Now I just need to figure out what fittings I need!
 
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I see what you mean about the Aquacomputer stuff. I started off looking at the octo, then saw the 6 Pro and wow do things escalate!
The sensible part of me is thinking about getting the fittings for the loop installed when I do it and waiting for the right price on a controller.

Now I just need to figure out what fittings I need!

Doesn't that kit come with fittings? Then temp sensor wise just an inline or stopplug G1/4.
 
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In a previous build I am see Aquacomputer kit and very good it is too.
However not having either the time or more importantly the space on my case to fit the amount of hardware needed I changed tack and went with Corsair CP and haven’t regretted it once
 
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Thanks for the advice. I've done my usual thing and bought something without planning out the end goal!
Now I'm trying to work out what to do with an Aquaero when my new case (PC-O11) doesn't have a 5.25" bay.
 
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Thanks for the advice. I've done my usual thing and bought something without planning out the end goal!
Now I'm trying to work out what to do with an Aquaero when my new case (PC-O11) doesn't have a 5.25" bay.


Hence my recommendation of the OCTO. Tbh I'd send it back, the OCTO is in many ways a more capable device.

You can take off the display of the aquero and turn it into the internal LT version, bit of a waste of money but it'll work.

Other option is to make a custom mount for it somewhere on the front of the case, or mount it internally somewhere you can see the display.
 
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In a previous build I am see Aquacomputer kit and very good it is too.
However not having either the time or more importantly the space on my case to fit the amount of hardware needed I changed tack and went with Corsair CP and haven’t regretted it once

The OCTO is about the same size, and arguably more powerful. Good alternative to the CP.
 
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zhQfWfx.jpg

I tried this one, it`s really nice and simple shows u water temp, and flow rate, only proble was it was noisy and I got rid of it, perhaps I should have tried swapping the insides or remounting them but I didnt have an 11m internal hex key to do so.
 
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You can take off the display of the aquero and turn it into the internal LT version, bit of a waste of money but it'll work.

That's what I did with my AQ6 when I went from a Corsair (loads of 5.25 bays) to my Phanteks (no bays). I mounted the "Lite" version on a tray in the back of the PC.
 
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zhQfWfx.jpg

I tried this one, it`s really nice and simple shows u water temp, and flow rate, only proble was it was noisy and I got rid of it, perhaps I should have tried swapping the insides or remounting them but I didnt have an 11m internal hex key to do so.

I just ordered one of these, how loud are we talking?
 
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