Integra Project

At a guess, 216Si (iirc) with the purple bubble that he sprayed white himself?

Ding ding ding :) Yeah I think he's 216si on RT. Good friend of mine.

As for what's going on, well i'm not too sure yet TBH. I *think* that the place that bored the block to 81.25 have hashed it up, it's still burning oil and compression is at about 150psi :( Also, it's leaking oil quite badly.

I said earlier in the thread I wanted to get some forged high comp pistons and cams to suit, so I think that's what'll be going back in. 81.5mm though, getting right on the limit of what the block can take. First it's of to a reputable machine shop to make sure it can go to 81.5 safely. If the block is scrap i'll probably try and source a b20z.
 
Copied and pasted from another forum:

Last year I rebuilt the engine on my 96 spec JDM ITR, Everything was renewed on it with OEM parts, bearings, pistons, rings, oil and water pump, new gaskets everywhere the full works.

Now, over the last 5 or so moths the car has began to smoke again quite heavily, it's also leaking quite a bit of oil. For example if I had been driving normally for a while and then accelerated hard a stream of blue smoke would come out of the exhaust. Similarly, If I revved the engine hard, backed off the throttle and let the car coast down, then re-apply the throttle large amounts of blue smoke would again come out of the exhaust.

Oil was leaking from what appeared to be the head gasket behind the exhaust manifold and the sump gasket.

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Now today I pulled the engine out with the intention of having to replace the pistons and rings again with 81.5mm items, It already had 81.25 OEM pistons and rings last rebuild. However, when I pulled the motor out I noticed that there was quite a bit of oil in the inlet ports on the head: There was a little in the inlet manifold, but more on the ports of the head and small drops on the valve guides:

Head:
IMG_5084Large-vi.jpg

Inlet manifold:
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The breather valve was replaced with a new item when I rebuilt the engine, but I can't help but think that the issues i'm having may be due to too much pressure in the crank case.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what my problem is? I had assumed that it was a piston ring issue but now i'm not too sure. (I'd assumed the placed that bored and honed the block had messed up and that it was because of this, they aren't the best of places but not many places can do that sort of thing round here)

So, any advice or suggestions? I can supply whatever info is needed from the build as I have it all documented...... apart from the bore and hone which I didn't do.
 
One is "Autocare 10/40" the other is Fuchs Silkolene Pro S 5/40 with genuine Honda filter.

Cola used as oil additive ;)
 
Why on earth do people think they need to run new engines in for 1000 miles gently? Its a sure fire way to have an oil burning slow engine.

The rings are bedded in after the first 50 miles, plenty of hard acceleration and engine braking under 4000rpm, and then your good to thrash the **** out of it!
 
I appreciate your opinion Simon, but what's your reasoning behind that?

"For example if I had been driving normally for a while and then accelerated hard a stream of blue smoke would come out of the exhaust. Similarly, If I revved the engine hard, backed off the throttle and let the car coast down, then re-apply the throttle large amounts of blue smoke would again come out of the exhaust."

Sounds similar to what my Rover did, cause of that was the the cylinder head

Its vaccumm related and either oil is getting past the rings or valve stems on your engine.

Not all the oil is burning hence why some of it is leaking out past the manifold
 
It doesn't smoke at all first thing on a morning, not even a tiny little puff. That's what's making me think it's not the valve stem seals.
 
Idle vacuum is only about 20 InHg of Vac, overun at high rpm is around 30 with thinner oil than start up.

My Teg gave whisps of blue on overun, I saw it on some track vids.
 
Well i've ordered a few things for the engine that wont be here for another week or so, in the mean time I thought I'd have a go at something i've been wanting to do for a while; baffle the sump.

Mugen sell a baffled sump which is essentially a modified stock sump, it comes with a hefty pricetag too. No thank you.

A few companies in America sell weld in baffles for about $30, this is much better value but by the time you pay shipping and potentially get stung for import duty I thought i'd just have a pop at making my own.

Standard sump:

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I made some rough templates from thick paper:

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I then marked up some 1.2mm steel sheet lying around. I couldn't find a proper pen to do it which was a pain :(

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After attacking it with nothing more than an angle grinder and bench grinder I was left with these:

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I then tacked them into the sump so I could test fit it to the block to make sure it cleared the oil pickup:

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It fitted perfectly first time. I was more shocked than anything else :eek: So It was then welded up properly:

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So there we have it, my finished baffled sump. I'm really pleased with the outcome of this really, i've never made anything like it before. Yes, the hole for the oil pickup is out of round, but then I was making the hole with an angle grinder!

Props again to Mr 216si as some of you know him, he did all the welding tonight 'cos it's something I basically can't do. :D

I'm just waiting on my new lost motion assemblies, valve stem oil seals, head gasket and throttle body gasket which should be with me next Monday so I can get it back together.

I'm really, really trying to resist the urge to stick some cams in at the moment :rolleyes:
 
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