Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car

Putting all the things aside which you have done to the car Gibbo...after the £6995 you paid for it if you had just kept it as standard do you think the car would have owed you much?


Well it was not standard when I got it. Though I do not think anything would have failed on the car if it had remained standard. The only cost would have being the inspection 2 service in theory and fuel, insurance.

In 3yr only MOT work it needed doing was front brake lines which was £150.
 
Not bad for an M3 under £7k!

No it was a very good buy, the guy selling was absolutely loaded and had a few Aston's and just taken delivery of a Dodge Viper so even at the time he let this go quite cheap. Had an offer come through a facebook group this morning, offering 16k cash for it, so if I decide to advertise its going up at 20k, they are fetching good money.

Oh though the car did develop a boot floor crack, nothing major, just hairline so could have being left if was just to be a road car, so that was an additional running cost.

Though I am making some modifications to the car next week.

- Removing the faster steering rack (purple rack) and putting the stock rack back in. Reason is the purple rack though faster and better on centre feel plays havoc with DSC even with the coding modifications I made it just spoils the drive when driving with DSC on in the wet for that added safety net. So stock rack back in next week with fluid change.

- Am also going to fit 255/40/18 MPSS tyres, am going up in wall size from a 265/35/18 to improve ride quality and traction, if anything handling should further improve with a little extra tyre wall and of course the MPSS is a superior tyre compared to the Advan V105.

- Shall also get the running in diff oil dropped and the correct BMW spec oil put in. :)


Then I can enjoy the car to its maximum potential on both road and track, of course if track times are the goal then another set of wheels with ideally 265/35/18 cup 2's or slicks would be ideal but I just want something to have fun with on road and track, so the MPSS 255/40/18 is a better option I feel. :)
 
Hi there


Going against the grain here, but today I decided to remove the purple tag steering rack. Yes it improved on centre feel and yes it makes the car turn quicker, but I've had it on the car for a year and have to say its not for me, obviously not a major issue as its survived on the car for a year. :D

The other major issue is that on older MK20 DSC you can only code the module so much and even with re-coding with DSC enabled if driving hard in the wet it interferes on the front axles too much. The reason for this is because for the amount of steering angle the car now turns a lot more, so the DSC thinks it is detecting slip angle and kicks in on front axles, hugely annoying when you want to push the car in wet conditions and have safety element of DSC. Of course on an MK60 car this is not an issue as it can be fully coded to support the quicker rack.

So took the rack out, gave the car a thorough inspection, happy to report no oil leaks, no signs of wear and everything is generally very clean on the under side of the car. :)


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The garage who work on the car say that for a 2002 car with over 100k on the clock it is absolutely remarkable how clean it is on the underside and that the condition is absolutely top notch.


Also re-checked alignment and dialled in a more friendly fast road alignment which will work fine on track too, remember I can dial in -3.00 front camber and neutral toe which takes two minutes per side to do at track. :)

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Now diff is run in, alignment is done and the car is now on 255/40/18 MPSS all round, let me just say the road handling and fun factory is through the roof, the car is like a well mannered race car on the road. With the 3.91 differential even with the car in full weight trim, my god does it fly, the acceleration is brutal and it will wheelspin all the way through second gear if the tyres are not warm. Its great fun and the SMG seems to work a lot better with the 3.91, feels a lot more torque!

The only downside is auto mode will not upchange now if your at WOT whilst in auto mode. I am looking into this and potential of re-coding the SMG ECU CSL firmware, but not a major issue as if I am driving the car hard I am always in manual mode anyway, auto works fine when in traffic, city or just cruising. :)
 
Hi there


So a little feedback on the car, could not resist going for a drive this afternoon and pushing the car, hard, very hard even though it still had steering rack and tools in the boot.

In short oh my god I am blown away with how damn good it is, it drives superior to what my CSL ever did on the road, even more so it rides better to, I think I might have found the holy grail of what settings to use on the KW Clubsport coilovers for the road. I was suffering with some understeer but I can say with the new alignment, new front tyres and KW settings I have discovered from trial and error. The grip at either end of the car is unreal, the grip levels are nearly on parr with the Mustang and like the Mustang the front-end is now a lot more confident inspiring to turn in. I'd say on a fast sweeping flowing road the Mustang would probably still corner quicker, but move away from grip and over to handling the way the car can be chucked and the way the car breaks away is so progressive its like slow motion. Also because I modified my MK20 DSC to dial out intervention now with the stock steering rack back in place one can actually boot the car in 3rd gear on a roundabout exit and keep the throttle modulation and it will actually drift with DSC on, its quite remarkable like drifting for dummies, not tried it in the wet though yet, haha.

In short the car is hugely inspiring from both ends, its was always good, but now I think I have found the holy grail, its a great mix of lots of grip (not too much), superb handling, incredible acceleration, not sure how accurate phone apps but I tried a 0-60 run with partial throttle in 1st and then WOT in 2nd with a little spin which registered a 4.3s, the 3.91 and rebuild LSD really makes acceleration from low RPMs incredible and traction seems much better, guess a fully rebuilt fresh diff makes a big difference from one with 100k on it. Accelerating hard through the gears is breathtakingly quick with the shorter diff and it works so well with SMG, I've never experienced clunk or jerk free SMG but now I have it and its so smooth.


My KW Settings

Front
Rebound (top): 9 clicks (KW stock ring wet setting)
Compression/Bump (bottom): 1 1/2 turns out from hard

Rear
Rebound (top): 12 clicks (KW stock ring wet setting)
Compression/bump: 1 1/4 (5 sweeps) out from hard


This seem to really help turn in at lower speeds, with the biggest improvement coming from softening the bump in the front, I kept the rear 0.25 (1 sweep) stiffer at rear than front as per KW instruction, plus normally a firmer rear helps to dial out understeer. This also stopped skipping tendency over poor roads when heavy braking. Its obvious to me that KW's factory settings for basic road are for smooth roads that are flat, on a UK road you need to go softer for sure.

For track work I shall try these settings too though I found KW ring dry settings seems to work quite well on track or even 1 click firmer.

Then of course I trial fitted a pair of 255/40/18 MPSS on the front axle, changing from the Advan V105 265/35/18. Yes the MPSS do catch a little on the arch liner, but its minor so I can bear with it, these for sure have a lot more subjective feel to them compared to the Advans, a big confidence boost and the taller wall does not look out of place and of course the ride quality with new KW settings and these tyres is surprisingly good, in fact shockingly good, everything just seems to work so well. Also even though they are 255, they seem just as wide as the 265 Advans!

With the new alignment settings (image below), has made the car super confident inspiring on the road, car is hugely stable in all scenarios and grippy, a little less camber all round (can still get upto -3 front by undoing 3 top mount bolts and sliding the strut inwards, takes two minutes per side, and for road just slide outward all the way to be back at alignment settings below. :)

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Surprised with how grippy the rear feels, once I have the new MPSS on the rear car will ride even better.


Got a half rear cage being fabricated as we speak which is scheduled to be welded in first week of November, its bright yellow, harness bar etc. which finally completes what was originally a track car that turned into a mental fun road car that just happens to lap faster than M3 cup cars, or so an owner of M3 cup car told me (he has driven mine) and simply said my car felt better in every way. M3 cup cars are built to spec to make racing fair, of course my car is running superior kit, has more power and a lot of other tweaks detailed in this thread and even better my car is still a sheer joy on the road, works absolutely fine as a daily.



I've also always driven the car in comfort mode as I found sport mode well to jumpy and over-sensitive, which is a complaint by many. As such I decided to have a go at writing my own sport throttle map using Martyn's great tool from ECUworx that makes alterating your factory map so easy and it only cost £20, a must have for any E46 owner!!


Here are the stock comfort and sport throttle maps:

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You can see the difference between stock comfort and sport throttle maps is huge, which explains why the sport mode feels over sensitive in my opinion. So I decided to write a sport throttle profile which was well very close to linear, as in if I command 30% I get 30%, I only increased it beyond linear ever so slightly once passed 40% throttle travel, here is my sport throttle map if others wish to try it:

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I am now driving the car in sport mode again, just my own variation of sport mode! :)


For those interested here are the settings I also run for my tune file:

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Once the cage is in next month am gonna be on the look out for some track days at Donnington or Oulton Park, need to get back into enjoying the car on track instead of just enjoying her on the road. But its taken a few years but all the things I dreamed of doing to the car are now done, its not the cleanest M3 externally but none of the track prepared ones are, but mechanically its all pretty much brand new and performance wise well 385BHP, 1375kg, CSL DME/SMG, 3.91 diff, RWD and well its a sheer joy. Though don't be surprised if I still have the car in a years time or so to see it change colour to something rather bright to make it look full on race car too. ;)


From the amount of stuff I've driven, no other car except for Houseys old GT3 ever felt like a race car on the road, even my CSL was a bit tame compared to this, but don't interpret that wrong, if anything this car is more raw but actually rides better on the road than the CSL did, simply because the KW's once you find the ideal settings are better damped, I'd only advice for a strict only road going M3, get the KW V3 as they use progressive springs up front compared to Clubsports firmer linear offerings. Housey's GT3 was raw and a scalpel but for me was not a joy to drive on the road, but a lot of that was down to his aggressive track alignment and my M3 was less fun on road with a similar alignment. Now this M3 is raw, race car, but by some kind of magic still refined and confident inspiring, how I don't know but I am not complaining. The car is a true jackel and hide, two personalities, it can race and it can cruise or be a shopping kart. Just wish I had done my recent NC500 trip with it in this configuration as it would have being awesome. :D
 
Hi there

Not a great video as I mean to slow down to around 1500rpm, but with the 3.91 diff, CSL ECU and CSL remap the car picks up so well from the lowest of RPM and then just pulls hard right too 8000rpm:



Its so quick that 3rd gear is just incredible it will get up and accelerate hard from 20mph to around 90mph, amazing single gear acceleration. 2nd gear is absolutely brutal! :D
 
What's 1st like? Is it too short now?


1st was always to short, so is no different than before, 1st is only useful on a full weight stock M3, on my car because its light, more power I find to use first I need a hot day and warm tyres, then I can more or less use it, 2nd is fine. :)

I have another run 20-80mph using 2nd will get it posted up.

However my current rears are shot and are 265/35/18 and they are being replaced with MPSS in 255/40/18 so stickier tyre with a taller wall, that change might just about make 1st a possibility again, but in fairness it is rare I boot any car in 1st, if a Civic wants to beat me of the line that is fine, give them some false hope, engage 2nd and come screaming past. :D
 
That 30-80 isn't hugely different to standard is it? At least doesn't seem like it from watching the video alone! Will have to confirm when I get back the car back a bit later :p


Its one gear. :p

Ever fancy race, I will show you how big the difference is. ;)

Using 2nd-3rd gear:


3rd only is around 6s 30-80mph
2nd-3rd is 5s 30-80mph

Stock M3 is 6-7s 30-80mph going through 2nd-3rd, slower still if using only 3rd gear as the stock car takes a bit to get going.


Give you an idea from the video you sent me of yours, your 50-80 acceleration is 3.5-3.7s and mine is under 3s. That is just a small snippet of acceleration but in short I am over half second quicker on a small window, if we were to do a 30-130mph run side by side I'd be hitting 130mph 2-3s before you and be a few bus lengths ahead. Or your 40-80 is 4.75s and my 40-80 is 3.6s, over a second quicker is is a vast amount. :D
 
Give us another passenger ride at the next meet to confirm? :p

I'm sure it's quick and would leave me behind, given the weight savings and everything else.

But I don't think the video just shows it fully well! My 30-80 is around 5.3s from 2nd to 3rd, could be quicker if shifting at the correct indicator though.


There ya go, am over a second quicker on same stint which on the road translates to quite a gap, when watching videos it well looks like just a second and is nothing. :)

One of my mates has an SMG E46 M3 with Evolve remap and Venturi thing, his is a coupe like mine with CSL suspension and wheels, other than that its full weight stock car. Lets just say we played a few times, his comment was my M3 makes him feel like he is driving a 330ci, on the road the difference is quite dramatic. :)

We need to arrange a day at an airfield where we can do top speed runs, on roll acceleration and drag racing, that would be awesome as I'd love to keep my foot in mine until its off the clock at around 180mph. :D
 
If you think you can get the numbers to make it viable, have a word with Colin at Javelin and tell him I sent you. He's run top speed shootout type events at Woodbridge before.


Well awesome, thanks m8, any ideas on costing, how is the track surface, is it smooth or does it look like the run way got bombed as avoiding pot holes at 150+ can be troublesome.

But I am well up for that, the Mustang is useless past 150mph, but the M3 is just stupid it never stops pulling and now with the diff I think it will just max out the gearing which is around 186mph top speed. :)
 
What's 1st like? Is it too short now?


Had new tyres fitted this afternoon 255/40/18 MPSS and though they are still greasy (release agent) it does seem I can now go full power in 1st gear and put it down, needless to say wow!

Might need to be taking this car racing instead of Mustang, haha. :D
 
Hi there


Just being FB messaged by the cage fabricators with some photos of the rear cage:

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Just looks like some dirty scaffolding there, its now off for some powder coating in a rather bright colour. :D

Finally the harnesses shall be moved to the correct angle and the cage can be bolted or welded into position, I am opting for welding, they can bolt it in too if they like but they recommend welding which is what I am having done as and I shall then cut my custom carpet to accommodate appropriately so it still looks neat and tidy in the car. :)
 
Hi there

Had the cage bolted/welded into the car today, it looks absolutely stunning and awesome work by SW Motorsports and great value for money at £550, very happy I am! :D

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Very happy with it, don't know if car handles better but even in these freezing wet conditions the grip the car has is nothing short of amazing, can drive the thing so damn quick even in the wet, handles amazing. Best handling car I have ever owned flat out and I've had a lot of nice stuff including 911's and an M3 CSL. This betters them all!

Couple of better photos SW took:

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Shall get the car re-corner weighted and underseal re-painted where the cage was bolted/welded down to be on safe side. :)
 
Absolutely, would be a travesty if this went down due to rot :(

Exactly!
Most people who see it underneath comment what a clean rot/corrosion free car it is and I wish to keep it that way. :)

Now looking of things to do, but I think I've done everything I could do to this car now and I cannot think of anything car just has that perfect balance of power/handling now, says something when I can floor it in this cold freezing weather and it just puts the power down, very impressive!
 
That looks the **** Gibbo. Awesome.


Cheers, for an old M3 it does get a surprisingly amount of attention, particular the colour, to me the colour does not do much for me but people always ask if its a special order or custom colour, but to my knowledge Topaz Blue was just a regular option colour, maybe just a bit on rare side?
 
Which suspension are you running on this Gibbo? And what sort of lap time round Donington?

KW Clubsports.

Last time I went out I was doing quite conservative 1:21's and the driving instructor I took out said my driving was too careful and too smooth but very good, but as such the car would be a further 2-3s quicker in his hands it was on Michelin cups then.

Since then it has a touch more power, a touch less weight, is now more rigid (cage) and the 3.91 motorsport differential. I would hope to be doing around 1:20-1:21 conservatively now on MPSS tyres, hence not much quicker as no longer running a semi slick as moved it to a car that can be enjoyed on the road in all weathers as well, I did NC500 in this car which is test amount to actually how much comfort is still retained.

But I'd suspect back on semi slicks in the hands of someone who can drive and is not fearing throwing it at scenery the car will do a lap of Donnington National in around 1:16 with a very good / pro driver. Its a very quick car as I can do comfortable 1:22's without sweating or pushing, essentially a Sunday cruise around there in the dry. :D

I've being around Donnington in Rays supercharged E46 and he can drive, he was doing around 1:14 at the time but he is fearless and is happy to drive down through craners at 120-130mph with the car sliding, back then it was still road legal car as well, my driving style remains within the realms of traction and not beyond. Rays car is now a full on race car with 650BHP, no idea if its finished but I know his aim was 1:10-1:12 Donnington lap times.
 
That's a good time. I'm doing 1m24's in my DC5 and I think I could lop a second or two off that with more confidence and stickier tyres.

I found going to Cup tyres were yielding a good 2-3s per lap, the guys going on slicks were finding another 1-2s again.

Michelin cup/cup2, R888, Dunlop, Bridgestone RA11, Pzero Trofeo are the stickiest semi-R tyre if lap times are your goal but they are all super expensive.

Cheaper stuff like Nankang NS-R, AD08R, 595 RSR are faster in the dry than a road tyre at track but really lacking in the wet, particular on road.

MPSS for me offers me very good road manners and should be great on track too, hope to try them out at somepoint, oh and they last forever in comparison to other tyres.

I've always wanted to get the car to a point where I can just do 1:20 laps without really trying on a semi-R, then if I let someone I trust and know is good could get a further 3-4s improvement. :)
 
I'm on Federal RS-R's at the moment, they're cheap at £75 a corner but also only have 5mm of tread IIRC. The RS-R's feel a little wallowy so I'd ideally like something with a stiffer sidewall. Once I get my sump baffled, I was looking at Nankang A1-R, they're £100 per corner, something I can stomach if the performance is good. I'm not hugely into lap times as I think pushing for them can result in an off, but it's nice to go faster and know where your progress is compared to others.

Exactly why I switched to road tyres, simply have better manners and the MPSS are pretty handy on track, I'd rate them as good as the 595-RSR for dry track days and vastly better in the wet.

My M3 had 595 RS-R when I got it, was OK in the dry, but in the wet it was a death trap, but not fully the tyres fault as the initial handling setup was well crap, as I got the car it was doing 1:28 lap times, slower than a stock M3 as it had no balance.

Here is a lap, this car is similar specification to my own, gives you an idea of what the car is capable of when driven to the limit and beyond:


Kumho V700 in the K90 compound was tyres which are pretty hard and his best lap was 1:17.5, on cups or slicks he would be quicker, but not allowed. ;)
 
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