LG 42-inch OLED

14hr days on woled tech isn’t something I’d be up for. Certainly not something I’d recommend to others.

LCD’s have their use cases still and yours is likely a better fit there.
I'm guessing he already has the C2 from what he's said though, but i do agree maybe an LCD would be a better fit considering that amount of static work

This is the part that keeps me consistently flipflopping over whether I should or shouldnt. I want a device that is basically doing double duty... 8 hrs of work during the day and then 6 hrs or so of play at night. I worry about OLED in this case. I wish there was a pc centric review of Samsungs QN90B 42" mini LED, which by all reports is an extremely close competitor (superior in some ways, inferior in others). Alas there is not.... hint hint...
Assuming you already have the screen, then it probably depends on if you find the dimming from TPC annoying or not during use? Which is your preferred brightness level, the first brightness when it first comes on, or that brightness after it's dimmed? Is is the occasional changing that's the problem?
 
Hey all. Is anyone running this screen with the S2J LG sound bar? I've plugged it in using optical and unable to use the TV remote to control the volume on the soundbar. It does it with Bluetooth but I'd rather use optical.....
 
Question for 42C2 owners how are you finding dark scene viewing with TV series and HDR film playback?

Mines still pitch black and almost unwatchable with picture defaults even after 200hrs TV use, starting to think my panel might be bad.
 
If you're watching HDR content in the day or lit environment, you might want to use Cinema Home or Turn on Dynamic Tone Mapping. HDR is meant to be watched at night/in a light controlled environment and will appear either too dark or virtually unwatchable in the daytime, depending on the content.

If you're getting this at night, in a light controlled environment, then make sure you don't have eco and other power savings enabled.
 
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Question for 42C2 owners how are you finding dark scene viewing with TV series and HDR film playback?

Mines still pitch black and almost unwatchable with picture defaults even after 200hrs TV use, starting to think my panel might be bad.
a few things you can try that will hopefully help:

1. try a different preset mode, Cinema Home is probably a good bet
2. turn on dynamic tone mapping in the brightness menu, that will def help a bit
3. in general > AI menu turn on "AI brightness" as that can help sometimes although i'm not 100% sure if it's designed to work in HDR mode - on the CX I'm pretty sure that's only for DV mode, but then it should help in DV content at least
4. If you really want to, you could just increase the "black level" setting in the brightness menu a couple of notches, that should def help without causing much of an issue for anything :)
5. OLED near black can be a little tricky to get right, even during a professional hardware calibration it needs a manual shadow detail correction stage to get it right
6. Oh and definitely make sure that within the OLED care menu you have turned ECO mode off, that will only cap your peak brightness ;)
 
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a few things you can try that will hopefully help:

1. try a different preset mode, Cinema Home is probably a good bet
2. turn on dynamic tone mapping in the brightness menu, that will def help a bit
3. in general > AI menu turn on "AI brightness" as that can help sometimes although i'm not 100% sure if it's designed to work in HDR mode - on the CX I'm pretty sure that's only for DV mode, but then it should help in DV content at least
4. If you really want to, you could just increase the "black level" setting in the brightness menu a couple of notches, that should def help without causing much of an issue for anything :)
5. OLED near black can be a little tricky to get right, even during a professional hardware calibration it needs a manual shadow detail correction stage to get it right
6. Oh and definitely make sure that within the OLED care menu you have turned ECO mode off, that will only cap your peak brightness ;)

Thanks have tried them all, they certainly do help but I still find it tricky to see peoples faces during those dark scenes sometimes, Gamma 2.2 and black level 54 is better but I do then get a slight white glow at times, I found 51 to be the kind of sweet spot to avoid that white glow but shadow details are lesser, I guess you can't have more of either there.

Tone mapping switched on helps the most so I now leave it on for HDR but some scenes its still very hard and hard to make out what's going on.

I did also try Gamma 1.9 for HD TV series, that did help the most with brightening the overall picture up but I do wonder if I am making the picture more inaccurate so still testing that out, need to retry Cinema home also I found it was very similar looking to filmmaker. It does sound like
a tv calibration service would help.

Maybe I should avoid watching in pitch black horror and scifi movies and tv series:cry:
 
It really depends on your usage type and your reason for wanting to turn it off in the first place.

TPC is there to auto dim the screen when it detects there have been limited changes to the APL (Average Picture Level), i.e where there's been static content for a while. On the LG OLED TV's this is quite aggressive. For PC desktop use this can happen quite a lot, I'm currently using the 42C2 and after a couple of minutes it will dim the screen a fair bit. You need to remember though that it doesn't change the fact the image is still static with limited changes to the APL. All it's doing really is reducing the brightness of the OLED pixels in an effort to try and reduce the chance of burn in. The brighter the pixels are operating, the more likely burn in could occur. So the logic being is it will reduce the brightness a bit to try and help.

Really this TPC feature is there with TV usage in mind, after all this is a TV primarily. So it's there for occasions like if you were leaving the TV paused, or away from the screen or something. In that kind of usage, it might as well do that for you to try and help a bit, it's no real concern. The only issue with that for TV usage is that sometimes a scene that is meant to be fairly static, especially common on darker scenes, could trigger this TPC unnecessarily even though it's still a changing and dynamic scene. For tactual dynamic content with any moving image like a TV show, movie, game etc it is really unnecessary to do that and it's not really meant to do it either. It's kicking in when it probably really shouldn't. So for TV usage, that's when some people want to turn it off via the service menu to avoid that distraction.

That's a very good reason to do so, and the only "risk" in that is if you are in the habit of leaving the screen paused or static, it will no longer activate TPC and try and help you a bit. For the actual dynamic content it will have absolutely no risk, as it's just stopping something from activating that shouldn't be activating anyway. If you do disable it you might want to be a little extra careful to not leave it paused or on static screens, but as i said earlier it's still a static image either way - it's just a slightly darker static image with TPC enabled and therefore a bit more risky.

Although having said that you do have to go some to actually cause any real burn in issues on an OLED TV :)

For PC usage it's a little different and probably more annoying and likely to be experienced. TPC will activate when there's limited APL changes, dropping you from your normal brightness down to a lower level, again to try and help reduce the risk of burn in. But you could achieve the same thing in effect if you just operated the screen at a lower OLED light level (brightness) to start with. TPC will still kick in and dim you even further, but it's not really needed then.

For example (made up approx numbers) if you ran the screen at 100% OLED light level that was operating at 250 nits, when the screen detects static content and an unchanging APL, it might dim you to the equivalent of say 75% OLED light and 180 nits. You could have course instead just run the screen at 75% OLED light level all the time and disable TPC and that would be the equivalent of you always operating in the "safer" mode, if you see what i mean? :)

If you want to consider turning TPC off, the trick would be to find an OLED light level that is comfortable and appropriate for your static desktop use, and that has a lower chance of burn in. I expect for most people a setting around 50% OLED light giving you a 120 nits approx luminance would be appropriate and comfortable, but you would probably find that's considered a low OLED light level and therefore a safer, less likely to cause burn in, brightness level. Remember that TPC is a safety measure, it has no real link to the actual brightness setting, it just dims the screen when it thinks the content is static for things. If you're operating the screen at a lower OLED light level like that, it's of minimal risk to disable TPC. With TPC enabled i expect what most people end up doing for PC use is setting the screen brighter than they would normally want it, putting up with that for a few minutes, then letting TPC lower you to your comfortable level. That is of course pointless and "worse" from an image retention point of view than just leaving it at the lower level all the time :)

I don't see there being any real risk in turning TPC off for PC use as long as you're not going to be running at a really bright OLED light level all the time and then leaving the screen really static. There is far more benefit from a burn-in mitigation point of view in being careful with your content, moving things around, hiding task bars, setting screensavers etc than there is in letting a feature like TPC dim you a bit sometimes when it feels like it! And if you're using the screen primarily for its intended usage like gaming, movies, HDR and only a bit for office /static work, it's a really small concern anyway. If you're mainly using it for static/office work, you've probably brought the wrong screen/panel tech to start with!
Good write up!:) But..

You have proving my point what I said.. The C9/CX/C1/C2 users haven't had it long enough to know it doesn't cause long term damage to the OLED TV by turn off ASBL/TPC in the service menu, to backup your theories. The first issue though is ABL kicking in, not ASBL. The power supply on these TVs can't handle every pixel at full brightness at the same time so when a certain amount of the screen gets to be a certain overall brightness level, ABL kicks in and it can't because you disabled ASBL. Both ABL and ASBL are for panel protection for obvious reasons if the image retention protections (such as TPC) in a specific game have constantly dimmed the picture, then this is a clear sign that this game poses a high risk of burn-in. You're playing with fire, don't complain if you get burnt in a few years.

LG informed me that turning off ASBL/TPC in the service menu voids your 5 year warranty if you disabled it for me losing the warranty is the only reason to keep it on. Burn in can happen on modern oleds too if you can't replace the panel just because you disabled an option using the cheap technical remote compare to an Oled price!. You do it at your own risk! If LG discovers this change during panel swap you have a real problem. According to RTINGs you can sort of disable ABL by limiting the brightness settings but that is not compatible with HDR so yeah not applicable, I like how ASBL works and don't find it annoying at all.. I use my OLED for gaming 8hrs and watching Netflix/Disney+ within that time. my gaming light is 25 in a darkroom.

If you was going to write a guide or video on this topic for new users you could at lease wait 5 years or longer and prove it doesn't damage the Oled TV with gaming & streaming at 75% brightness levels to back-up your clam there is no real risk as you said? I am sure RTINGs & HDTVTest wouldn't recommended using a technical remote turning off features that prevent burn-in or damage to the TV do you think Overclockers would put this new thread of yours to a sticky on there forums if there is risk to Oleds without explaining the risks and owners warranty without Pros and Cons of disabling ASBL/TPC.
 
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I'm guessing he already has the C2 from what he's said though, but i do agree maybe an LCD would be a better fit considering that amount of static work


Assuming you already have the screen, then it probably depends on if you find the dimming from TPC annoying or not during use? Which is your preferred brightness level, the first brightness when it first comes on, or that brightness after it's dimmed? Is is the occasional changing that's the problem?

To be clear I dont have the C2, I am hemming and hawing about purchasing it to replace my 34" ultrawide. Its just that I am still quite hesitant using an OLED as a daily workhorse + evening leisure display. I certainly wouldn't be using it @100% brightness as I keep my 34" LG at 30 (~170 nits)... it would likely be set at 60 ish... at least during productivity hours.
 
Cheers Mike I’m glad it helped. I’m going to write a guide or make a short video at TFTCentral on this topic, what you need, what to do etc I think as I’m sure it will help others. I’ll include the positioning stuff above too :)
Thank you sir, and thats awesome to hear!
Looking forward to it and will point newcomer to that, and the text you provide!

This is gold worth for any OLED owner to know about - and Should know about :)
 
Good write up!:) But..

You have proving my point what I said.. The C9/CX/C1/C2 users haven't had it long enough to know it doesn't cause long term damage to the OLED TV by turn off ASBL/TPC in the service menu, to backup your theories. The first issue though is ABL kicking in, not ASBL. The power supply on these TVs can't handle every pixel at full brightness at the same time so when a certain amount of the screen gets to be a certain overall brightness level, ABL kicks in and it can't because you disabled ASBL. Both ABL and ASBL are for panel protection for obvious reasons if the image retention protections (such as TPC) in a specific game have constantly dimmed the picture, then this is a clear sign that this game poses a high risk of burn-in. You're playing with fire, don't complain if you get burnt in a few years.

LG informed me that turning off ASBL/TPC in the service menu voids your 5 year warranty if you disabled it for me losing the warranty is the only reason to keep it on. Burn in can happen on modern oleds too if you can't replace the panel just because you disabled an option using the cheap technical remote compare to an Oled price!. You do it at your own risk! If LG discovers this change during panel swap you have a real problem. According to RTINGs you can sort of disable ABL by limiting the brightness settings but that is not compatible with HDR so yeah not applicable, I like how ASBL works and don't find it annoying at all.. I use my OLED for gaming 8hrs and watching Netflix/Disney+ within that time. my gaming light is 25 in a darkroom.

If you was going to write a guide or video on this topic for new users you could at lease wait 5 years or longer and prove it doesn't damage the Oled TV with gaming & streaming at 75% brightness levels to back-up your clam there is no real risk as you said? I am sure RTINGs & HDTVTest wouldn't recommended using a technical remote turning off features that prevent burn-in or damage to the TV do you think Overclockers would put this new thread of yours to a sticky on there forums if there is risk to Oleds without explaining the risks and owners warranty without Pros and Cons of disabling ASBL/TPC.
You’re getting the technologies and terms confused, not helped by the fact they are often interchangeable when people talk about them.

You can’t disable ABL, that’s impossible, that’s linked to the power output of the OLED panel and it’s directly linked to the APL. It’s not possible for instance to get the 700 nits at full 100% white. It just can’t happen from a technical point of view. Nothing you can turn on or off in the service menu will change that.

What rtings will mean if they do ever talk about “disabling ABL” is that at a certain brightness level the ABL never needs to kick in as the overall brightness is low enough to be possible at 100% screen APL. but that’s not disabling anything they are just talking about what brightness is ok for full screen, and at what point it can’t keep that up for 100% APL :)

What you can turn off is the TPC feature which is an additional measure but specifically designed for when there’s static content on the screen because the tv thinks you’ve paused it or something. I’m not saying it’s risk free, it depends on your usage and you’d be wise to be even more careful around static content and PC use. But as I explained above, there are much more beneficial things you could do to avoid burn in for those situations than that feature anyway. For dynamic content it has no benefit at all in any meaningful way. If it’s not a problem during use then no need to turn it off. If it annoys you in darker scenes for instance then no harm turning it off.

And yes, I’m sure LG would say it voided your warranty if you asked them, of course it's not a standard access option, but that’s largely irrelevant unless you were specifically trying to make a claim for burn in. And I’m not convinced they even cover the TVs for burn in anyway (I’d have to check)

There is maybe a chance the engineer would check the service menu then if it was a burn in claim, but having had 3 engineer visits in the past I can tell you not once did they go anywhere near the service menu. And you could very easily go back in before they arrived and turn TPC back on, how would they know?! If you had any other warranty claim like a power problem, broken panel, knackered stand or whatever they’d go nowhere near the menu and it just wouldn’t be an issue.
 
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Oh and ps, what do you think the first thing is that Vincent at HDTV test does when he gets the new OLED screens? :) he’s the one who referred me to the service remote I have in fact.
 
Goes without saying that going into a service menu to adjust factory settings isn’t going to be something any manufacturer is going to be ok with. That’s a slippery slope no corp legal department is going to sign off on.

Professional calibrators will go into the SM often to set gains for calibrations as it can speed things up. I’m sure LG doesn’t support it but it happens all the time.

Anyway, many of us have TPC disabled since the C7 era without any issues but as always, each his own.
 
Goes without saying that going into a service menu to adjust factory settings isn’t going to be something any manufacturer is going to be ok with. That’s a slippery slope no corp legal department is going to sign off on.

Professional calibrators will go into the SM often to set gains for calibrations as it can speed things up. I’m sure LG doesn’t support it but it happens all the time.

Anyway, many of us have TPC disabled since the C7 era without any issues but as always, each his own.
Yeah they’re never going to say it’s ok of course. But i really doubt any engineer would ever check, and if they ever did they’d never know if you turned something like that back on or did a factory menu reset (which you can do too).
 
Oh and ps, what do you think the first thing is that Vincent at HDTV test does when he gets the new OLED screens? :) he’s the one who referred me to the service remote I have in fact.
Talk of Vincent, here is his new video. Both great screens, but glad I went with the Alienware :)

 
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If you was going to write a guide or video on this topic for new users you could at lease wait 5 years or longer and prove it doesn't damage the Oled TV with gaming & streaming at 75% brightness levels to back-up your clam there is no real risk as you said? I am sure RTINGs & HDTVTest wouldn't recommended using a technical remote turning off features that prevent burn-in or damage to the TV do you think Overclockers would put this new thread of yours to a sticky on there forums if there is risk to Oleds without explaining the risks and owners warranty without Pros and Cons of disabling ASBL/TPC.
i understand the video is exaggerating things but holy hell the white uniformity is awwwwwful on his sample....
 
To be clear I dont have the C2, I am hemming and hawing about purchasing it to replace my 34" ultrawide. Its just that I am still quite hesitant using an OLED as a daily workhorse + evening leisure display. I certainly wouldn't be using it @100% brightness as I keep my 34" LG at 30 (~170 nits)... it would likely be set at 60 ish... at least during productivity hours.
I don't think I could recommend an OLED for your type of uses to be honest, there's just too much office/static use and for a number of reasons it's not ideal for that (screen size, TPC dimming, text clarity).
 
I've given up on the idea of using one of these for work, in fact I've been following this thread for a while and I'm going to unfollow it now, I've decided they are over priced, over complicated and seem to have numerous issues based on feedback in this thread
 
I've given up on the idea of using one of these for work, in fact I've been following this thread for a while and I'm going to unfollow it now, I've decided they are over priced, over complicated and seem to have numerous issues based on feedback in this thread
Yep. Just get a TN panel and be done with it.
 
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