Loop finished, only one leak so far, no disaster...

Agreed, I'm definitely leaving it alone now. Avoided what could have potentially been a very expensive disaster. Pleased with temps, like how quiet my rig has become.

Once all this snow clears I'm gonna order some red LED's. Until then, time to cable tie the PSU back in once I know loop is leak free.
 
I pulled the heat spreader off a GTX280 once when taking the air cooler off. Slapped some MX4 between it and the core and put it back on secured in place with a couple of dobs of silicone rubber at the corners. If anything I reckon you would get even better temps with a proper TIM under the spreader.
 
There was a point today after doing it I was on the ocuk website looking at a pre water block fitted 690. Glad i gave the fix a go. To use the rig you would never know it had happened.

Games are showing very close temps, albeit higher than i would like. I reckon i could do with another 120
 
20130123174634.jpg


Well, Phobya LED's came today for the waterblock so that's it, finished. Pretty pleased with final result considering I've never watercooled before. My only regret is the blue colour scheme board. Wish I'd have gone for a ROG board or something at the time, but they were way out of budget. Oh well.

Oh and for the lad who wanted to know where the SLI bridges were from....

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-184-OK
 
Looks really good - well done - I quite like the blue accents in a red build, adds some contrast - have the temps in the cards settled down or is there still a discrepancy?
 
Temps are a funny animal at the moment, and I'm not sure if to action it or not. When I have Sleeping Dogs on, the top card hits 63 ish, and the bottom one 57. They tend to stay around that and don't really move.

If I put Heaven on though, the top card shoots up to 75, and the bottom one stays in the mid 60's.

Because I have absolutely no experience in this field as to what to expect, I don't know if that's normal or not.

- I don't know if the thermal cap on the top card came loose too when I took the original heat sink off.
- I don't know if in screwing those phobya bridges tight it pulls the block away from the card, which is in a fixed position fastened to the case.
- It might be because I'd had the rig on all day and the water is just warm.
- It might be that it's normal temps because I'm 'under radded' which people keep telling me. Apparently, I needed absolute minimum a 360 and a 240.

This is where input from other lads more experienced than me in this game will help a lot tbh.
 
There used to be a page somewhere i used to use years ago that allowed ya to stick each component in at what speed you were running it and it would give you the amount of heat it puts out in watts, then you would just check how much heat your rad could remove with your flow rate and fan speeds at an acceptable lvl, maybe it was a thermochill page or something, i cant remember was such a long time ago, i wonder if its still kicking around out there.
 
I think I'm gonna try and get rid of the 140 on the back, and run some hose into an RX360 sitting outside of the case on the desk. I've sent a message to the lads in the shop. I hope they reply this morning with the basket list because I've got tomorrow off and can easily go pick them up. 70-80 on a custom loop are silly temps and tbh, no different to when I was on air.

Hope I can out this to bed soon.
 
It does sound like something is wrong, I had a lightning at 1350/1950 1.362v that struggled to hit 50c under water.
 
pgi947 said:
It does sound like something is wrong, I had a lightning at 1350/1950 1.362v that struggled to hit 50c under water.
Click to expand...

I got in touch with XSPC, the lad there reckons I need two seperate loops, running two D5's. One 360 for the CPU, and then another 360 and a 140 for the two cards.

I went for a 2nd opinion
 
Having huge problems with this still, and had to resort to getting touch with the tech support people. Temps on the cards go up to 90 in sleeping dogs, its ridiculous. It can't be bad blocks on both cards. There can't be so much air in it to cause that much of a problem. I'm lost.
 
Agree something is deffo wrong there. I'm lost too. What pump do you have? Sounds more like the fluid isn't moving round enough or it's getting too hot too quick. What's the total rad size for the loop?
 
Well there's two things here

I just stripped the top card down, the one that is getting the hottest, and one of the stand offs closest to the gpu just fell off. The thread was completely shot, and half of it was still in the block. I remember when I first installed the blocks, that it was a real you know what of a job, and perhaps one of the holes wasn't machined right. I don't know. Anyhow, I've contact EK for an RMA. I reckon the block was faulty, and wasn't making contact on the GPU

The other thing is the pump. When I increase it to no.5, there is no difference in sound at all. It doesn't get any louder at all. It's almost like the screw at the back isn't attached to anything, and not doing anything.

So first job, is to RMA the block. I can't send it back to the re seller because it was a backstreet small guy and he only had two in stock. The bottom card's fine, doesn't get hot really, just the top card.

After that, I'm gonna drain the loop, get rid of all the air locks in the rad from continually re connecting and disconnecting from gpus to fault find.

Then after that, if that doesn't work, will have to RMA the pump too.

Jeez. What a nightmare.
 
if its a d5 vario then the numbers on mine are worthless. I have to keep turning the knob and feel each time there's a little bit of resistance - thats moving up to the next speed level. (mmeasurable by fan controller)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom