Mountain Biking

Sounds like fork flex to me, what forks you running and what kind if dropouts/axel does it run?
Might reduce it with tightening things up more (careful you dont over torque)

Only ever experienced this sort of issue when i was running Q/R 9mm.
 
steve45 said:
Sounds like fork flex to me, what forks you running and what kind if dropouts/axel does it run?
Might reduce it with tightening things up more (careful you dont over torque)

Only ever experienced this sort of issue when i was running Q/R 9mm.
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It's QR unfortunately, still running a pair of older Rebas. Was hoping to avoid having to change both forks and hub .. bugger.
 
Cuchulain said:
Can anyone shed any light on to why my front brake disk constantly ends up rubbing when banking round corners? I've tried a few different disks now and they all do the same. Is it something I need to put up with until the pads wear down a bit?
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Crap wheels.
 
Now I'm in the right thread (cheers neil!) ;)

Roadie here looking for some MTB advice!

I've got a couple of friends with fullsus, one has ridden DH loads and the other just got back into riding trails. He got a hardtail and after 2 weekends switched it to a fullsus (https://www.whyte.bike/t130s). I'm fairly sure I'm going to need a fullsus to ride with either/both of them. My current bike (Specialized Diverge) won't be man enough for what they're riding!

I can't justify ~£1500+ on a new bike, but could I realistically get a good S/H frame, including forks in good condition for £400-£600. Then buy parts and build it up myself, effectively spreading the cost (to justify it and also hide it from the other half!)?

Or is it similar to road bikes and just not a cost effective option? I'd have most of the tools required, so just parts.
 
If you're going to build the whole thing with 2nd hand parts, then it'll be cost-effective.
If you plan on buying a 2nd hand frame and new parts to go on it, you'll likely be better off buying a complete new bike.
 
2nd hand full suspension from Pinkbike classified is everything you're ever going to need.

The site is teeming with 1yr old bikes 40% 50% 60% off the new price, often there's brand new bikes on there shops want to shift quietly at ludicrous prices.
 
merlin said:
2nd hand full suspension from Pinkbike classified is everything you're ever going to need.

The site is teeming with 1yr old bikes 40% 50% 60% off the new price, often there's brand new bikes on there shops want to shift quietly at ludicrous prices.
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A friend did this and got a last year bike from a shop in Wales at a pretty good discount!
 
merlin said:
2nd hand full suspension from Pinkbike classified is everything you're ever going to need.

The site is teeming with 1yr old bikes 40% 50% 60% off the new price, often there's brand new bikes on there shops want to shift quietly at ludicrous prices.
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Good thought, I'd looked briefly at fb buy & sells but I'm very dubious. Would trust something more from PB!

Really need to go see my LBS and ask them to keep an eye out on any trade ins.

I'm edging towards 27.5" rather than 29" as I'm not fussed on speed, more interested in the technical/rough side of things!

Got a realroad bike for speed ;)
 
I'm 5ft 8 so I went 27.5" - just seemed like I was the boss on the 27.5", felt in control, whereas on the 29er it seemed the bike was taking ME for a ride.
 
merlin said:
I'm 5ft 8 so I went 27.5" - just seemed like I was the boss on the 27.5", felt in control, whereas on the 29er it seemed the bike was taking ME for a ride.
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Interesting. I'm the same height and riding a Scott Scale 960. I rode said friend's 27.5" Cube and felt very bunched up and on top of the front wheel by comparison (and he's a few inches taller). 29er feels quite stretched out and leant forward.
 
Lethal` said:
Interesting. I'm the same height and riding a Scott Scale 960. I rode said friend's 27.5" Cube and felt very bunched up and on top of the front wheel by comparison (and he's a few inches taller). 29er feels quite stretched out and leant forward.
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Well allow me to say my chosen 27.5" was (is) a Mondraker - which is pretty much as long and stretched out as you'll ever find, forward geometry frame.

The longer bikes tend to be more stable at high speed, downside in the case of my bike is there's a little "wandering" when climbing (which personally doesn't bother me at all) from the virtually non existent stem.
 
I've just built (hopefully finish this weekend...) my son's 29" hardtail.

It's got:

- 29" Chinese carbon frame
- Rockshox RCT3 Pike forks
- MT35 Shimano wheels
- 2 x 10 XT groupset
- XT brakes
- Carbon seat post
- Carbon stem & bars
- etc etc.

Came in at 1500 euros
 
randomshenans said:
I've just built (hopefully finish this weekend...) my son's 29" hardtail.

It's got:

- 29" Chinese carbon frame
- Rockshox RCT3 Pike forks
- MT35 Shimano wheels
- 2 x 10 XT groupset
- XT brakes
- Carbon seat post
- Carbon stem & bars
- etc etc.

Came in at 1500 euros
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I hope you at least put some Canyon stickers on! :confused:
 
Lethal` said:
Interesting. I'm the same height and riding a Scott Scale 960. I rode said friend's 27.5" Cube and felt very bunched up and on top of the front wheel by comparison (and he's a few inches taller). 29er feels quite stretched out and leant forward.
Click to expand...

id say thats more to do with frame size and geo than wheel size.
 
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