Mountain Biking


boost/crankset question - my bike has a boost rear wheel and is running a double ring at the front. if i convert to a single ring at the front using my existing crankset will this work or do i need to buy a new single ring boost crankset?
all these standards are so confusing
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Yes it will work but depending on your chainline you may get problems with wear on your components and possible chain slips. On non-boost builds the chainline should be 49mm (I say should, this is I believe what SRAM recommend but whether it puts your chain in line with what you perceive will be the middle of the most commonly used cogs on your rear cassette is another matter). With a boost rear wheel your chainline moves out to about 52mm. Now with a double crankset the chainline is usually measured from the middle of the two rings so the inner ring may be a bit less than the ideal standard chainline and the outer a bit more, you may find moving to the outer ring achieves a suitable chainline for a boost rear wheel without tinkering. Really though, your choices are either to just do it and see how it works or try to measure what your chainline actually is and see if you can adjust it.

Oh the joys of "standards" in MTB.
 
What's everyone's preferred tyre combination? I'm running a Magic Mary on the front and a Nobby Nic on the rear but could really be doing with a wee bit more grip on the back. Few times I've been going round fast/tight bends the back end has been sliding out from underneath me.
 
Superpatsy said:
What's everyone's preferred tyre combination? I'm running a Magic Mary on the front and a Nobby Nic on the rear but could really be doing with a wee bit more grip on the back. Few times I've been going round fast/tight bends the back end has been sliding out from underneath me.
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Depends on what I'm riding, I have the option of running
MM/MM for loamy, muddy or situations where grip is key.
MM/HD for all round normal riding.
HD/RR for hardpack fast summer riding.

Needing a new Mary and a new Hanz-dampf, they are looking a bit ragged at the moment.
 
Superpatsy said:
What's everyone's preferred tyre combination? I'm running a Magic Mary on the front and a Nobby Nic on the rear but could really be doing with a wee bit more grip on the back. Few times I've been going round fast/tight bends the back end has been sliding out from underneath me.
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Ive just swapped out my rear to a Maxxis DHR, My front is looking a bit ropey too so will definitely need to change that soon. Also its killing my OCD having a Schwalbe Nobby Nic on the front and Maxxis on the rear :(
 
Superpatsy said:
What's everyone's preferred tyre combination? I'm running a Magic Mary on the front and a Nobby Nic on the rear but could really be doing with a wee bit more grip on the back. Few times I've been going round fast/tight bends the back end has been sliding out from underneath me.
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Ardent/Minion SS ordered for the HT and DHRII/Minion SS on the full sus.

All Terran around here is loose and dry, so the SS works fine. Currently running HR2/Ardent on the HT only changed because the Ardent is currently ripping itself apart.
 
I use MM/HD back end very rarely loses grip

MM/MM would be too draggy for all round riding

would be nice to roll faster on trails but I need me the grip for the fun stuff and CBA to change tires about

NN rear wasnt grippy enough (or strong enough)
 
Superpatsy said:
What's everyone's preferred tyre combination? I'm running a Magic Mary on the front and a Nobby Nic on the rear but could really be doing with a wee bit more grip on the back. Few times I've been going round fast/tight bends the back end has been sliding out from underneath me.
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Tried less pressure in the rear and/or slower rebound? I run a Specialized Purgatory Grid in the rear but it also slides around at will :D I like it to be honest, not fast but fun.
 
Have just purchased a pair of slx m7000 brakes at a reasonable price from what I considered a reputable retailer. Was expecting the familiar blue packaging but the pair arrived in a generic brown box with no Shimano branding aside from a sticker with the model names on. The brakes look good from what I can see and all the additional parts appear to be present.

Having now seen sets on ebay for about the same price should I be concerned ability the legitimacy of these? Have others received Shimano components in non-branded packaging?
 
Andelusion said:
Tried less pressure in the rear and/or slower rebound? I run a Specialized Purgatory Grid in the rear but it also slides around at will :D I like it to be honest, not fast but fun.
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Tried a variety of different pressures but can't seem to find a happy-medium. It's mostly on hardpack or gravel berms that the backside slips away, although I've not tried this tyre combo in wetter weather yet.
 
cheesyface said:
Have just purchased a pair of slx m7000 brakes at a reasonable price from what I considered a reputable retailer. Was expecting the familiar blue packaging but the pair arrived in a generic brown box with no Shimano branding aside from a sticker with the model names on. The brakes look good from what I can see and all the additional parts appear to be present.

Having now seen sets on ebay for about the same price should I be concerned ability the legitimacy of these? Have others received Shimano components in non-branded packaging?
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I've had shimano parts on jiffy bags from CRC. Depending on how cheap, I wouldn't worry.
 
Thanks folks. Thought this afternoon it might be something like that but good to hear others have had similer. Will trust the wizard again...

And looking forward to being able to brake again without sounding like a badly maintained lorry
 
For not a lot more you could have gone for the M8000 XT's!

Local tail running beautifully after this warm weather! Damn rain tonight tho :(
 
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