Mountain Biking

steve45 said:
Personally I'd be after either a replacement (a bit of a pain in the **** sending it back) or reasonable agreed refund of some money or store credit, for a brand new bike thats not acceptable, yeah you could argue that it'll end up a lot worse after a few rides, but you wouldnt accept a brand new car like that, or a brand new TV, why should that be any different.
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That was my line of thinking, it seems kind of silly to have to send it back and them then send a new one and all the extra hassle that comes with that (ensuring someone is home for the delivery etc) all over a couple of chips however like you've said you wouldn't except anything else new like this so why should this be different.

DereksDontRun said:
I was going to ask if it's carbon (as that could be damaged internally, so an instant return), but then I saw the welds, so know it's ally. Tbh, while it won't have damaged the frame/strength of the bike, I agree with Steve - you paid for something new, not something chipped... If it was marked as ex demo then I could understand, but it's not. At least you're not returning as you don't like the bike/size, you can easily show them the damage, so they should easily/quickly pay for its shipment back.

And, as soon as you get the bike, get some heli-tape and protect the paint/frame with that on the usual vulnerable spots, like the down-tube ;) Also makes it easier to clean...
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As above completely agree with what you've said, I'll get in contact with them and get it sorted. Hopefully Chain Reaction are good with this sort of thing. Thanks for the tip with heli-tape, will definitely get some ordered!

Thanks for the reassurance guys, will let you know the outcome.
 
Spuj said:
That was my line of thinking, it seems kind of silly to have to send it back and them then send a new one and all the extra hassle that comes with that (ensuring someone is home for the delivery etc) all over a couple of chips however like you've said you wouldn't except anything else new like this so why should this be different.



As above completely agree with what you've said, I'll get in contact with them and get it sorted. Hopefully Chain Reaction are good with this sort of thing. Thanks for the tip with heli-tape, will definitely get some ordered!

Thanks for the reassurance guys, will let you know the outcome.
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The paint on Vitus frames have been known to be a bit soft last year and looks like it's the same this year. Basically expect some more paint chips in areas you won't be able to protect with tape. Obliviously the top tube chip is noticeable, but some tough up paint and protection tape over the top should see to that.

Still doesn't change the fact that it shouldn't come with chips like that... CRC will hopefully sort you out.

See here for last years Escarpe 29 VRX: http://singletrackworld.com/2017/06/review-vitus-escarpe-29-vrx/

Paint-chips-easily.jpg
 
DereksDontRun said:
tbh, I just google... Your rims should have their model code on them, or just search the spec of your bike's model online, which will give their width. e.g. my e*thirteen TRS+ 27" have an internal width of 28mm according to e*thirteen.

a completely over the top article about tyre width to rim width compatibility:
https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/12/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/

Basically just look at the tables in the images - annoyingly the tables all have tyre width in mm and mtb tyres all seem to be sold in inches... So, my 28mm width can accept anything from 50mm width up (to beyond the top of the table, lol).

As you can see, each rim width can accept a massive range of tyres - but that doesn't mean you bike can... All frames (and forks) are designed around a rough tyre size, as the bigger the tyre the larger the outside/total diameter and the closer it will get to the frame all around the chainstays/bottom bracket and fork's crown. Newer bikes with newer geometry seem to accept a wider tyre, so if you have an older frame and the bike came with 2.2" tyres then you might be limited to something like 2.4" tyres. Tbh, you either need to google your bike's model and something like "max tyre width", or even email the company and ask.

Sadly, it's still not as easy as that, as 1 brand's 2.4" tyre will physically measure differently to another brand (or even model from the original brand) - plus the more pressure in them, the bigger they will inflate... So, if you manage to squeeze a 2.5" tyre from 1 company and there's v little clearance, then a 2.5" from another might not work.

I dug about and seem to remember spotting that my bike manufacturer claimed "true" 2.6 tyres should be ok, but if they happen to be over 66mm (2.6" * 25.4) when physically measured, it might start to rub, so I went for 2.5 and left it at that...

If you can't get info online, or from the manufacturer, then turn your bike upside down and spin the tyres looking for the closest gap - measure the gap and try to work out what size you can go up to, then take off a little for safety ;)
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Yeah I googled but it was a lot of conflicting info, a bit like your post I guess! Haha! Sounds like trial and error to a degree. I do appreciate your post however as it does clear up side of the stuff I've read.
 
I don't know what Giant used on their XTC frames, but I haven't got a single chip on that in the 8 or so years I have owned it. Its almost like an anodized finish.
 
Have any of you guys serviced your own Rockshox forks? Did you buy the expensive Rockshox oil or will the cheaper stuff such as TF2 do the job? £10 for 120ml seems a bit ott!

Also is the suspension grease also needed or will just the oil do the job? Again the RS stuff seems very expensive at £10 for a small tub. Any cheaper alternatives for the grease?

My brothers bike hasn't been touched all over winter and when you press down on the handlebars the shocks move in stages rather than fluently if that makes sense, so i'm thinking the oil has dried up on the foam rings. Plus apparently you are supposed to do a service after 50 hours, so i can do my new bike as well.

Thanks
 
I've done a DIY lower leg service on my Pike forks.

I purchased the kit from TF Tuned, it was pretty straightforward to remove the lowers, inspect/replace the foam rings, fill back up with oil and bolt it all back together.
 
Mark A said:
Have any of you guys serviced your own Rockshox forks? Did you buy the expensive Rockshox oil or will the cheaper stuff such as TF2 do the job? £10 for 120ml seems a bit ott!

Also is the suspension grease also needed or will just the oil do the job? Again the RS stuff seems very expensive at £10 for a small tub. Any cheaper alternatives for the grease?

My brothers bike hasn't been touched all over winter and when you press down on the handlebars the shocks move in stages rather than fluently if that makes sense, so i'm thinking the oil has dried up on the foam rings. Plus apparently you are supposed to do a service after 50 hours, so i can do my new bike as well.

Thanks
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To answer your first question, no you dont have to use the rockshox stuff, as long as the oil you use is the same spec/viscosity, personally i use Valvoline Synpower Fork Oil in the right viscosity for the fork. As for grease... I dunno I use it on all my seals, I've been using leftover tubes of that RSP ultra Slick grease that came with TFTuned refresh kits that i use for seals/O-Rings and such and left over lower leg lube on the foam rings, I tend to do 6 monthly services on my forks and have never had any issues not using the recommended rockshox/fox stuff, not sure where you'd stand warranty wise, probably not favorably though.
 
What tyres would you guys recommend for Glentress at the end of March?

I ride a Canyon Nerve 29er that came with a Continental Mountain King II 2.4" front and Conti X-King 2.4" rear, which I replaced with a Magic Mary/Hans Dampf combo after I got a rear puncture.

I love the grip from the MM/HD setup but I do find that the rolling resistance is higher than the old Coni pairing.

Is there anything in between?
 
steve45 said:
not sure where you'd stand warranty wise, probably not favorably though.
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Thats a good point, i never thought about that, i guess i'll just get the proper stuff as you only use a small amount anyway although I have read that the RS oil is the same as this stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torco-RF...var=581812467361&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Might get 250ml of that and a tub of genuine Sram butter grease.

Skillmister said:
Result, new forks under warranty :D
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Nice result!
 
Irish_Tom said:
What tyres would you guys recommend for Glentress at the end of March?

I ride a Canyon Nerve 29er that came with a Continental Mountain King II 2.4" front and Conti X-King 2.4" rear, which I replaced with a Magic Mary/Hans Dampf combo after I got a rear puncture.

I love the grip from the MM/HD setup but I do find that the rolling resistance is higher than the old Coni pairing.

Is there anything in between?
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Glentress is my local trail centre so I'm there quite a lot and I've been using MM/HD with absolutely no issues whatsoever in all weather. The rolling resistance is quite high but I can't say I've noticed it on the way down!
 
Superpatsy said:
Glentress is my local trail centre so I'm there quite a lot and I've been using MM/HD with absolutely no issues whatsoever in all weather. The rolling resistance is quite high but I can't say I've noticed it on the way down!
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Ok awesome, thank you — that’s the kind of insight I was looking for. :D
 
What grease is recommended for mountain bikes? Is it worth paying the extra for the super duper teflon ceramic grease or will my never ending tub of Lucas x-tra heavy duty wheel bearing grease be ok? I'm servicing my old hardtail as its had to be relegated to the shed now my expensive full sus bike is in the house. So just want to make sure the bearings are all packed with grease.

The finish line teflon stuff seems expensive at £20 a tub, but if its not just snake oil and actually makes a difference I don't mind paying it as a tub like that will last me years.
 
Mark A said:
What grease is recommended for mountain bikes? Is it worth paying the extra for the super duper teflon ceramic grease or will my never ending tub of Lucas x-tra heavy duty wheel bearing grease be ok? I'm servicing my old hardtail as its had to be relegated to the shed now my expensive full sus bike is in the house. So just want to make sure the bearings are all packed with grease.

The finish line teflon stuff seems expensive at £20 a tub, but if its not just snake oil and actually makes a difference I don't mind paying it as a tub like that will last me years.
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I use this Park tools stuff £5
it seems to work, and its lastest ages, some very thick grease might be a bit overkill - may be slow stuff down too much? dunno :p:confused:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/..._dc|pcrid|161845658788|pkw||pmt||prd|214931UK
 
Thanks, i might just get some of that as I guess you can't really go wrong with Parktools stuff.

Just finished doing a lower leg service on the rockshox reba forks on my hardtail and that was a lot harder than I was anticipating after looking at some videos on Youtube. Mainly due to the Rebas having hollow legs at the bottom, so it was a real pita trying to get the oil in there. Then the foam rings seemed to double in size after soaking with oil :eek:. Not sure if they went back in perfectly, might end up having to buy a new seal set.

Hopefully my brothers Recon forks are a little easier. Definitely need to get a stand at some point as that would have helped immensely.
 
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Needing some advice please, got a cube 27.5 x 2.25 wheels, it's a runabout that I commute with and take on the odd light trail.
I want to go tubeless in the summer, anyone know of a good road wearing but grippy in the wet set of tyres to buy that support tubeless, Maxxis or Schwalbe. Yes, I'm predicting a wet summer :p.

Cheers
 
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