Mountain Biking

if you're trying to find good/known routes then try https://www.gpsies.com/ - bit of a clunky interface, but can show some good options to add to a regular route. Or, just load up strava and explore where the segments are, check that on a map and if it's not on a road, then sorted ;)

I plan any new route with http://www.viewranger.com/en-GB as you can easily create a route on the website (use OpenCyclemap map for contours) and show a profile of the height for decent descends and how to avoid the bad climbs. Once saved on the website then sync on your phone and the route is now accessible there. No need to pay or anything.

also, just check what events that are being run locally... Dunno where you are, as Crown Point comes up with a load of places, but if you're north Manc then I did this last summer http://rescuerides.org.uk/index.php and a nice route starting from Marsden, and raising money for the local mountain rescue is surely good, but the climb from Meltham to back to the A635 is awful and sooo bad on a mtb with nobbly tyres. I've done the route again with a m8, but skipped that climb and went around Deer Hill Res. instead and was SOOO much better. I can only guess the road climb is included in the mtb ride to allow them to count riders in/out of the checkpoint (at the end of the climb).

If you're a little further East then a similar charity ride starting by Holmfirth http://www.bikechallenge.co.uk/. Not tried it (and only just found that website), so will probably give it a go over summer.

Even Evans Cycles do some local mtb routes https://www.evanscycles.com/evans-cycles-rochdale-mtb-saturday-3rd-february-2018-EV319933 - just trace that route out in ViewRanger for your own copy of it ;)

basically, just look at what other ppl recommend of the area and stitch it into a ride with mates ;)
 
Andelusion said:
All the trails are still there and perfectly rideable, a short detour around the landslip has been created so it's literally no issue. I was there a few weeks ago.
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m8, read the previous posts about the place. I was there last weekend, and it's getting trashed by motox bikes (was about 15 of them roaring about while I was there cycling). The place is just getting run down due to lack of funds and the lack of facilities can only put people off. My post about the land slide was (in my opinion) the last nail in its coffin and I don't think I've noticed any upkeep to the place since then - as the link I posted says, council funding to the place was stopped Dec 2015. It is a fun place (if intimidating for those not used to the rocks), but it needs the motoX bikes kicked off and some of the trails do need a little tlc, and that's before anyone suggests something silly like a flushing toilet and a tap (water to drink and wash down bikes) might be a good idea for a "modern" trail center...
 
DereksDontRun said:
Did you chance it? I think I spotted on Facebook that they closed yesterday by 10am and again today (and tomorrow). I hope you didn't get there only to find it closed.
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We didnt go in the end, i was talking to the chaps there on friday night and they were iffy about it being open. Glad we didnt as we would have got there for about 8am and been out before even finding out the cafe was shut, which would have been a killer to get back to that. We ended up staying in Yorkshire and did a route a mate knew around Hebden Bridge with a section called Blue Pig which was interesting for a first timer, plus all the snow on the moors made it tough going. Thoroughly enjoyed it though and will be out and about again this coming weekend. The roaring fire, fish butty and pint of IPA was very welcome at the end of it.
 
Thanks @DereksDontRun some great info there. The charity events seem like a great idea, i'll definitely have a look into that.

I went for a quick blast today and i'm over the moon with my YT Jeffsy. The weight difference between this and my old hardtail is barely noticeable really and I didn't have any problem climbing with the non locking rear suspension. It felt so much better with 150mm travel vs 100mm on my hardtail, it just smoothed every little bump out. Also the seat height is perfect with the dropper post, so thats a relief.

The Sram brakes don't seem quite as good as the Shimano brakes I have on my hardtail, but it could be because they need bedding in more. I can always swap them over I guess as I also prefer Shimanos ease of bleeding and I already have the bleed kit.

kefkef said:
We didnt go in the end, i was talking to the chaps there on friday night and they were iffy about it being open. Glad we didnt as we would have got there for about 8am and been out before even finding out the cafe was shut, which would have been a killer to get back to that. We ended up staying in Yorkshire and did a route a mate knew around Hebden Bridge with a section called Blue Pig which was interesting for a first timer, plus all the snow on the moors made it tough going. Thoroughly enjoyed it though and will be out and about again this coming weekend. The roaring fire, fish butty and pint of IPA was very welcome at the end of it.
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A guy i watch on Youtube called Harry main went there on Sunday I think and he ended up giving up and going home as the weather and conditions were so bad.

 
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What's the go to proper mud tyre for this time of year? South downs way area so bit of lovely chalk and rocks thrown in for good measure on my Scott scale hardtail. 650B
 
I've never really bothered with full muds, more often than not the Magic Mary has been aggressive enough to suffice when it gets sloppy.

However if you are definitely wanting a mud/spike/cut spike, then I'd be looking at dirty dan/shorty/wetscream/mud King.
There are very few bad tyres from the major manufacturers these days.
 
steve45 said:
I've never really bothered with full muds, more often than not the Magic Mary has been aggressive enough to suffice when it gets sloppy.

However if you are definitely wanting a mud/spike/cut spike, then I'd be looking at dirty dan/shorty/wetscream/mud King.
There are very few bad tyres from the major manufacturers these days.
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Sorry probably had my CX head on, just something better than my rocket ron when it gets sludgy to actually be able to get the power down rather than spinning away and not going anywhere.
 
I've gone Mavic Claw 2.5 wide tyres for this winter and they seem to be pretty good. They're obviously slower/more resistance than a harder/slimmer summer tyre, but atm they seem pretty good. AFAIK they're meant to be a front tyre, but the extra grip on the rear doesn't seem to be hurting atm, but they might wear a bit quicker than normal...

Mark - good to hear you're liking your Jeffsy - I've been thoroughly enjoying mine too, but agree the SRAM brakes aren't the best... My RSC versions seem to keep adjusting the contact point closer and closer to the bars, so I almost have to take the wheel off and carefully pump the pads closer with 1 or 2 squeezes of the lever before each ride, just to get the contact back to mid-way through the lever's action. I thought the C of the RSC was meant to be contact point adjustment, but this is crazy... (and I have the contact point wound fully out on the lever's dial). I'm planning to re-bleed them soon, in the hope that will help.
 
It's ridiculously muddy out at the moment, cycling to work this morning and I was getting completely bogged in. How do I find out of my rims can take wider tyres? I'm already 2.3* on the front though...
 
Hey everyone just after a bit of advice. I ordered a new bike from Chain Reaction last Monday and it finally arrived today (Vitus Sommet 2018) however upon getting it out of the box I found these two small bits on the frame.

VQ3Lss5.jpg

EBn55M4.jpg

I can run my nail into both bits of damaged, especially the second which is a proper chip.

I was wondering what you guys would do? If it was just the damage at the front I would probably just leave it and touch it up however with the second one on the frame I’m a bit annoyed, especially after the money I’ve paid.

What would you guys do? Im thinking I will email Chain Reaction with pictures and see what they say but not sure where I’ll get with them?
 
Personally I'd be after either a replacement (a bit of a pain in the **** sending it back) or reasonable agreed refund of some money or store credit, for a brand new bike thats not acceptable, yeah you could argue that it'll end up a lot worse after a few rides, but you wouldnt accept a brand new car like that, or a brand new TV, why should that be any different.
 
I was going to ask if it's carbon (as that could be damaged internally, so an instant return), but then I saw the welds, so know it's ally. Tbh, while it won't have damaged the frame/strength of the bike, I agree with Steve - you paid for something new, not something chipped... If it was marked as ex demo then I could understand, but it's not. At least you're not returning as you don't like the bike/size, you can easily show them the damage, so they should easily/quickly pay for its shipment back.

And, as soon as you get the bike, get some heli-tape and protect the paint/frame with that on the usual vulnerable spots, like the down-tube ;) Also makes it easier to clean...
 
bloodiedathame said:
It's ridiculously muddy out at the moment, cycling to work this morning and I was getting completely bogged in. How do I find out of my rims can take wider tyres? I'm already 2.3* on the front though...
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tbh, I just google... Your rims should have their model code on them, or just search the spec of your bike's model online, which will give their width. e.g. my e*thirteen TRS+ 27" have an internal width of 28mm according to e*thirteen.

a completely over the top article about tyre width to rim width compatibility:
https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/12/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/

Basically just look at the tables in the images - annoyingly the tables all have tyre width in mm and mtb tyres all seem to be sold in inches... So, my 28mm width can accept anything from 50mm width up (to beyond the top of the table, lol).

As you can see, each rim width can accept a massive range of tyres - but that doesn't mean you bike can... All frames (and forks) are designed around a rough tyre size, as the bigger the tyre the larger the outside/total diameter and the closer it will get to the frame all around the chainstays/bottom bracket and fork's crown. Newer bikes with newer geometry seem to accept a wider tyre, so if you have an older frame and the bike came with 2.2" tyres then you might be limited to something like 2.4" tyres. Tbh, you either need to google your bike's model and something like "max tyre width", or even email the company and ask.

Sadly, it's still not as easy as that, as 1 brand's 2.4" tyre will physically measure differently to another brand (or even model from the original brand) - plus the more pressure in them, the bigger they will inflate... So, if you manage to squeeze a 2.5" tyre from 1 company and there's v little clearance, then a 2.5" from another might not work.

I dug about and seem to remember spotting that my bike manufacturer claimed "true" 2.6 tyres should be ok, but if they happen to be over 66mm (2.6" * 25.4) when physically measured, it might start to rub, so I went for 2.5 and left it at that...

If you can't get info online, or from the manufacturer, then turn your bike upside down and spin the tyres looking for the closest gap - measure the gap and try to work out what size you can go up to, then take off a little for safety ;)
 
steve45 said:
Personally I'd be after either a replacement (a bit of a pain in the **** sending it back) or reasonable agreed refund of some money or store credit, for a brand new bike thats not acceptable, yeah you could argue that it'll end up a lot worse after a few rides, but you wouldnt accept a brand new car like that, or a brand new TV, why should that be any different.
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That was my line of thinking, it seems kind of silly to have to send it back and them then send a new one and all the extra hassle that comes with that (ensuring someone is home for the delivery etc) all over a couple of chips however like you've said you wouldn't except anything else new like this so why should this be different.

DereksDontRun said:
I was going to ask if it's carbon (as that could be damaged internally, so an instant return), but then I saw the welds, so know it's ally. Tbh, while it won't have damaged the frame/strength of the bike, I agree with Steve - you paid for something new, not something chipped... If it was marked as ex demo then I could understand, but it's not. At least you're not returning as you don't like the bike/size, you can easily show them the damage, so they should easily/quickly pay for its shipment back.

And, as soon as you get the bike, get some heli-tape and protect the paint/frame with that on the usual vulnerable spots, like the down-tube ;) Also makes it easier to clean...
Click to expand...

As above completely agree with what you've said, I'll get in contact with them and get it sorted. Hopefully Chain Reaction are good with this sort of thing. Thanks for the tip with heli-tape, will definitely get some ordered!

Thanks for the reassurance guys, will let you know the outcome.
 
Spuj said:
That was my line of thinking, it seems kind of silly to have to send it back and them then send a new one and all the extra hassle that comes with that (ensuring someone is home for the delivery etc) all over a couple of chips however like you've said you wouldn't except anything else new like this so why should this be different.



As above completely agree with what you've said, I'll get in contact with them and get it sorted. Hopefully Chain Reaction are good with this sort of thing. Thanks for the tip with heli-tape, will definitely get some ordered!

Thanks for the reassurance guys, will let you know the outcome.
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The paint on Vitus frames have been known to be a bit soft last year and looks like it's the same this year. Basically expect some more paint chips in areas you won't be able to protect with tape. Obliviously the top tube chip is noticeable, but some tough up paint and protection tape over the top should see to that.

Still doesn't change the fact that it shouldn't come with chips like that... CRC will hopefully sort you out.

See here for last years Escarpe 29 VRX: http://singletrackworld.com/2017/06/review-vitus-escarpe-29-vrx/

Paint-chips-easily.jpg
 
DereksDontRun said:
tbh, I just google... Your rims should have their model code on them, or just search the spec of your bike's model online, which will give their width. e.g. my e*thirteen TRS+ 27" have an internal width of 28mm according to e*thirteen.

a completely over the top article about tyre width to rim width compatibility:
https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/12/tech-story-match-bicycle-tire-width-rim-width-best-results/

Basically just look at the tables in the images - annoyingly the tables all have tyre width in mm and mtb tyres all seem to be sold in inches... So, my 28mm width can accept anything from 50mm width up (to beyond the top of the table, lol).

As you can see, each rim width can accept a massive range of tyres - but that doesn't mean you bike can... All frames (and forks) are designed around a rough tyre size, as the bigger the tyre the larger the outside/total diameter and the closer it will get to the frame all around the chainstays/bottom bracket and fork's crown. Newer bikes with newer geometry seem to accept a wider tyre, so if you have an older frame and the bike came with 2.2" tyres then you might be limited to something like 2.4" tyres. Tbh, you either need to google your bike's model and something like "max tyre width", or even email the company and ask.

Sadly, it's still not as easy as that, as 1 brand's 2.4" tyre will physically measure differently to another brand (or even model from the original brand) - plus the more pressure in them, the bigger they will inflate... So, if you manage to squeeze a 2.5" tyre from 1 company and there's v little clearance, then a 2.5" from another might not work.

I dug about and seem to remember spotting that my bike manufacturer claimed "true" 2.6 tyres should be ok, but if they happen to be over 66mm (2.6" * 25.4) when physically measured, it might start to rub, so I went for 2.5 and left it at that...

If you can't get info online, or from the manufacturer, then turn your bike upside down and spin the tyres looking for the closest gap - measure the gap and try to work out what size you can go up to, then take off a little for safety ;)
Click to expand...

Yeah I googled but it was a lot of conflicting info, a bit like your post I guess! Haha! Sounds like trial and error to a degree. I do appreciate your post however as it does clear up side of the stuff I've read.
 
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