Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

SteveOBHave said:
*snip*
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Cheers Steve, I've done the ESC cablibration from the KK2.0, but I'm still only running the default firmware for now. Should be better when I get the simonk one on there. I'll check my tune, I've been fine tuning and it's definitely better than it was when I first flew.

I'm definitely prepared to crash, not yet got spare motors and such though but might get some with the next pay check. LED Strips are on the todo list, I've got them just not wired them in yet.

Col_M said:
I thought "that's flipping confident for a first flight" until I realised you didn't mean to do it, fair play though, you didn't crash it :cool:
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Not my first flight, probably the 5th or 6th flight in total, but probably the second one that I've actually given it the beans!

I'm pretty comfortable with the flight orientation from flying the Hubsan, I'm just not quite relaxed enough when flying this yet as the auto level isn't as reliable and it's so much faster. I do love the Warthox videos though :D Definitely aim to be trying some flips and rolls in the coming week or 2 if I get a lot of flights in.

Imagine you're asking Rilot for the stats there, but for comparison - mine is 1200kV motors, 8045 prop and it weighs just under 900g. I do need to try and work out the thrust of it. Guess I could just put it on some scales, swap all the props and go full power and see what pressure it puts down?
 
Stats on my F550

10" Graupner 10x5 props
5Ah 4S Turnigy Nano-tech 4S
DJI 2212 920kV motors (will be replacing these with some heavy lifters at some point)
DJI Opto 30A ESCs
2.4kg AUW
Approx 10 minute flight time
 
PinkFloyd said:
Cheers Steve, I've done the ESC cablibration from the KK2.0, but I'm still only running the default firmware for now. Should be better when I get the simonk one on there. I'll check my tune, I've been fine tuning and it's definitely better than it was when I first flew.

I'm definitely prepared to crash, not yet got spare motors and such though but might get some with the next pay check. LED Strips are on the todo list, I've got them just not wired them in yet.


Not my first flight, probably the 5th or 6th flight in total, but probably the second one that I've actually given it the beans!

I'm pretty comfortable with the flight orientation from flying the Hubsan, I'm just not quite relaxed enough when flying this yet as the auto level isn't as reliable and it's so much faster. I do love the Warthox videos though :D Definitely aim to be trying some flips and rolls in the coming week or 2 if I get a lot of flights in.

Imagine you're asking Rilot for the stats there, but for comparison - mine is 1200kV motors, 8045 prop and it weighs just under 900g. I do need to try and work out the thrust of it. Guess I could just put it on some scales, swap all the props and go full power and see what pressure it puts down?
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Yeah that's the same essentially as one of mine - you'll be getting roughly 3-4kgs of thrust out of it which is why it's so quick. Next trick is to start dialing up your stick scaling but when you do make sure you also program in some expo so that it's still flyable around the middle of your stick travel. I find somewhere between 60-70% works really well. I'm on 105% stick scaling but my arms are really close coupled - start at around 80-85% scaling and start with high flips or rolls making sure you have your quad climbing when you roll it over - Throttle up, when you're travelling up reduce throttle, give it full beans left or right and then release the stick and it should catch itself with the dampening then throttle back up again. If you can find somewhere with really long grass then that's a MASSIVE bonus :p
 
With 3S and 10" props I was needing 80%+ on the throttle to maintain a hover. With 4S I only need 50% throttle.

I ran 2 x 2500mah 3S in parallel as a test and my flight time was around 7 minutes. With a single 5000mah 4S (which weighs about the same as the 2 x 3S LiPos) I get 10 minutes. This says to me that the motors are operating at higher efficiency at 50% than they do at 80%.
 
Lots of people on lots of forums told me not to use 4S with 10" props on the DJI 2212 motors because they would draw more current and burn out.
I decided to do some actual testing and found that due to the higher voltage I was actually drawing 10% LESS current at hover than with 4S and 8" props.
 
You might actually find even better response from 9x4.7 props on 4S with those motors. Just reading the spec sheet and it suggests 8 inch at 14V which is probably where other peoples comments come from. Over propping can have a different effect to just drawing more current, it can also reduce the motors ability to respond to throttle variations. A 9 inch prop might be a good compromise to the lifting capability and flight times. Are the motors and ESCs very warm at the end of a long flight?
 

Really not liking the KK2.0, stability is severely missing in Self-Level Mode no matter how much I try and trim it out. Just becomes really unresponsive and I end up overcompensating and getting into trouble, I am much more stable in Self Level Off...

Damage is not too bad really, the carbon fibre rod is almost a clean break right where it is clamped into the main frame so I will just square off the end and shorten all the rods to the same size which will also make it easier to transport around, the motor seems to be fine but the mount is quite bent which is a bit surprising as they seemed to be quite strong, I thought they were actually steel not aluminium, but should bend back fine with a bit of heat :cool:
 
It sounds like you need to reduce the stability damping and also make sure your level is done properly. If it's unresponsive it's normally because you have it set to too much damping. It's like having your PID tuned too low. You should tune your autolevel pretty much the same way you tune your 'acro' mode.

Watch this:
 
I've followed lots of guides on how to do it already, I'm starting to wear the little buttons out from doing the P and I, nothing makes any difference- I've not even seen any of the oscillations that high P or I are supposed to give either which makes me think that it might just be a bad board, I've reset the board and done the calibration/tests all over again, everything shows as OK, level ground, CofG is almost perfect so it's not like it is heavily weighed down at one corner or anything.

Last hope is the Atmel USB programmer thing which should arrive tomorrow from eBay so I can re-flash it to latest Firmware and hope that sort my problems out, really starting to think it's just a duff board as it is definitely more stable with the Self Level Off :p
 
SteveOBHave said:
You might actually find even better response from 9x4.7 props on 4S with those motors. Just reading the spec sheet and it suggests 8 inch at 14V which is probably where other peoples comments come from. Over propping can have a different effect to just drawing more current, it can also reduce the motors ability to respond to throttle variations. A 9 inch prop might be a good compromise to the lifting capability and flight times. Are the motors and ESCs very warm at the end of a long flight?
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They are warm. Not hot.
I'm playing with some Graupner 9x5s at the moment. They seem good so far.
 
doofer said:
Last hope is the Atmel USB programmer thing which should arrive tomorrow from eBay so I can re-flash it to latest Firmware and hope that sort my problems out, really starting to think it's just a duff board as it is definitely more stable with the Self Level Off :p
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SteveOBHave said:
Oh? You're not running 1.5 or higher? That's your problem then. 1.2 firmware autolevel is poo
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Yeh 1.2 is terrible for autolevel. I sometimes use it but it doesn't really make much of a difference.
I need to update mine, if the flashing chip you've bought works properly can you let me know which one you bought off of the bay? Hobbyking still haven't got it back in stock plus I'd be having to wait weeks for it anyway!

Good to hear it didn't get completely ruined by that crash :)
 
PinkFloyd said:
Yeh 1.2 is terrible for autolevel. I sometimes use it but it doesn't really make much of a difference.
I need to update mine, if the flashing chip you've bought works properly can you let me know which one you bought off of the bay? Hobbyking still haven't got it back in stock plus I'd be having to wait weeks for it anyway!

Good to hear it didn't get completely ruined by that crash :)
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Yes it is/was 1.2 :o

I got one of these:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=111113089242&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
And one of these:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=111150797902&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160

They were the cheapest UK stock I could find where I could get the 10-6-pin adapter at the same place at the same time.
 
I highly recommend 1.6++, Just put it on my play about Tricopter, the new SL and Acro modes are fantastic, plus all the extra features on top of 1.6

Got it on my FPV Tri too, but waiting on the new APC MR props :)
 
Cheers Doofer! Let me know how the flashing process goes. Need to do that with mine, although I've now managed to get my PI dialed in. 40 p-gain and about 38 i-gain. Got both limits set to 100 at the moment as I think that is default, not really looked into what they do. Can fly it pretty damn well without the self level like this now, with practise I won't really want the self levelling until I start with the video.
 
PinkFloyd said:
Cheers Doofer! Let me know how the flashing process goes.
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Well, that was simple enough, hardest part was figuring out which version of java I had to download :P

vmia.jpg


xflh.jpg


I hope this sorts out my stability problems but first I need to knock up a jig so I can shorten all the arms to the exact same size and finish making a fancy camera mount out of a Pepsi can.

I'm also thinking of ordering and modifying a 450 Dead Cat body to fit my shortened arms to but not sure how the wider apart front arms will affect the X Configuration? Will the standard X-Mode work OK or not? Don't want to order one if the KK2.0 won't run it.
 
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