Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

Kanifee · 16 Mar 2015 at 12:26

You will need them once you go to acro mode. In angle its not a issue as you rarely crash.

Depends. 5030s will be longer flight times less lift. 5040 are more aggressive with more lift Less flight time. All depends on what you are comfortable with, the 5040 will require more delicate touch on the throttle.

DJMK4 · 16 Mar 2015 at 12:28

Just going to order 16 replacement diatone 5030 props for now, so 4 sets for £5.99

Will go for the Gemfans after

Going to find some standoffs to use as legs also, was going to get Lumenier QAV250 Replacement Landing Feet / Gear Set but may just get some 25mm m3 nylon standoffs, be lighter and cheaper and just stick some paint on them

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__29545__5_6mm_x_25mm_M3_Nylon_Tapped_Spacer_10pc.html

Bones · 16 Mar 2015 at 13:48

quad03 by Boneyard14, on Flickr

quad01 by Boneyard14, on Flickr

quad04 by Boneyard14, on Flickr

Kanifee · 16 Mar 2015 at 16:52

^^ nice shots.

It's cold and damp outside so I set about my motors with my tool kit. Undone the grub screws and stripped them down to inspect the bearings, all seem fine so tapped the shaft into the bell housing a little and that has got rid of the vertical play in 2 of the 3 offending motors, I only have one to replace bearings in now. I will pick up a full set of spares though for the lot of them as I can see them taking some punishment in the future.

May have some spare cash this month so might invest in a full spare motor and esc for the flying back pack, always handy to have so you can stay in the air given most circumstances.

Tackle_Berry · 16 Mar 2015 at 18:18

Got my nucleus board delivered last week, just had some time today to put it together. Really happy with it, shaved off even more grams plus much tidier. Built in LED's and filtered video are a nice touch too.

My Minimosd that I planned on installing turned out to be faulty so I got a new one on order that I will flash with KV Team v2.2 that will give video overlay with RSSI, battery info etc.

Still need to tidy up antennas.

DJMK4 · 16 Mar 2015 at 18:33

Looking good, like that frame/board

Kanifee · 16 Mar 2015 at 18:55

Nice, is that the one from the rcgroups thread? if so I did like the look of that, made me consider a zmr frame. nice auw too.

DJMK4 · 16 Mar 2015 at 19:04

Need some replacement LEDs for my Diatone, the ones that solder on to the bottom of the model are not that great in terms of soldering to the board.

Managed to get some the white front ones on, and was going to use some RED as the rear, so it's pretty much the same car lights (White front/Red rear)

but need to now wire the rear ones to the battery connection without using the diatones copper power board pads as its not working. . Where are people wiring their LEDs in to? Can you just solder them on to the battery connector if the boards led copper pads don't work?

Tackle_Berry · 16 Mar 2015 at 19:10

Kanifee said:
Nice, is that the one from the rcgroups thread? if so I did like the look of that, made me consider a zmr frame. nice auw too.

That's the one from user Wadzofquadz. The thing that sold it to me the most was you can just drop in a minimOSD and solder it straight to the board no messy wires etc. Using this board along with CPPM, soldering the motors straight to the ESC's and then powering the flight controller of one ESC makes it really clean and light.

Genoma · 16 Mar 2015 at 21:49

Looking good Ash. I would consider securing the mobius and base somehow. Speaking from experience, a crash will send the battery hurtling forward, will dislodge the mobius and or the mobius base.

I spent an hour trying to find mine in the grass after a crash when it wasn't fastened down (I used additional zipties).

DJMK4 · 16 Mar 2015 at 21:54

Need some pre wired LEDs. Anyone have a spare red led strip they are willing to solder wires on for me? Ill chuck you a few quid

So I can then solder on to my battery connection terminals

I give up with soldering

If not Ill just fly the model with the working white ones I have on the front and nothing on the rear

These are what the model came with but since my rear power board led pads are knackered. Having trouble soldering wires on to the and getting led flicker.

Had led flicker on the led power terminals which is what caused me to try wires

gandhi · 16 Mar 2015 at 22:08

Trust me your address, I have some very good LED's I can pop in the post for you. They're even self adhesive

Red or Blue or Both?

In other news, had the day off today hoping to get some decent flying in but weather not playing ball. Intermittent rain was not fun.

So anyway, pranged the hexa in spectacular fashion. The video doesn't do it justice, it cartwheeled about 20' down the field. Mental note to self - set up the mode switch the same for each model, not reversed. Otherwise you might accidentally select "manual" instead of level. I'm going to put a delay on that switch now on the Taranis too.

Link to the Xaircraft blackbox utility so you can see my post flight telemetry

DJMK4 · 16 Mar 2015 at 22:13

Sending you trust now

gandhi · 16 Mar 2015 at 22:17

Genoma said:
Looking good Ash. I would consider securing the mobius and base somehow. Speaking from experience, a crash will send the battery hurtling forward, will dislodge the mobius and or the mobius base.

I spent an hour trying to find mine in the grass after a crash when it wasn't fastened down (I used additional zipties).

Yep, I have lost one like that as well as a substantial amount of bobbins! They just seem to evaporate in a crash!

Tackle_Berry · 16 Mar 2015 at 22:22

Thanks, I will attach it with a cable tie or something. I have crashed a lot and not been an issue probably just lucky I have had one or two shock balls still attached. That or I'm not flying fast enough lol.

Genoma · 17 Mar 2015 at 00:15

gandhi said:
Yep, I have lost one like that as well as a substantial amount of bobbins! They just seem to evaporate in a crash!

fishing line is a good way to secure bobbins, I've used a nylon bolt and nut through each one which stops them popping out too.

Rilot · 17 Mar 2015 at 09:56

I love that board with all the connections built in. Makes me want to rip my Diatone apart and rebuild it. What is the rest of the frame?

I see you're running 5x4 props. I have the same motors and ESC but when I pop them in to ecalc it reckons that the airflow over the props will stall making hover impossible. When I switch the calculations to 5x3 it's fine. I've not tried actually flying with 5x4s though.

gandhi · 17 Mar 2015 at 11:51

ecalc is broken for some props. Does it with 6x4.5 and 5x4.5 too.

Genoma · 17 Mar 2015 at 19:28

Just ran a garden test with the new 4s batteries. Nothing blew up which is a bonus, can't really tell but it feels fast with 6x3s and the SunnySky's!

Hopefully my Afro 12 ESCs will hold up!

Tackle_Berry · 17 Mar 2015 at 20:49

Rilot said:
I love that board with all the connections built in. Makes me want to rip my Diatone apart and rebuild it. What is the rest of the frame?

I see you're running 5x4 props. I have the same motors and ESC but when I pop them in to ecalc it reckons that the airflow over the props will stall making hover impossible. When I switch the calculations to 5x3 it's fine. I've not tried actually flying with 5x4s though.

It's a ZMR250 frame I get mine from makeitbuildit for around £25. There is a 1000+ page thread on rc groups about the frame and modifications etc. The board I posted in the Nucleus board sold by a member there. I pre-ordered mine months ago and they sold out within a day but he did supply a couple of US based shops with stock.

As for 5x4 props they're probably the most popular when used with 12 amp esc's along with DYS 1806 motors and alike. I have never had any issues and they run so much better. I would ignore any calculations and just try some.