mk1_salami
mk1_salami
Really inspiring project Lopéz - I'll look forward to the next update 
My Rally Project
- Thread starter Lopéz
- Start date
Probably, most seats can be adapted for other cars. These ones have flat base so shouldn't be tricky to mount up to the mounts of another car, or a universal subframe.saitrix said:Starting to take shape, really does look good.Now this may seem a stupid question but would those seats fit other cars, your old ones that is.
Mike306dt said:
I don't know the half of it
Yeah, basically I just learn as I go, think things through before I do them. I consult people with more experience than me and read as much literature - forums, books, whatever - as I can on a topic and then make my own conclusions about the right path to take.
Experience is worth a lot - learning by your mistakes helps too!
I've already got a lot of the parts I need - seats, harnesses, roll cage, fire extinguishers. I do need to build or buy a sump guard and a tank guard at some point. I also have uprated suspension and brakes, as well as a choice of OMP or Magnex exhausts to bolt on at a later stage.wild58 said:
Oh, while I remember, here's a short video of it starting up earlier. Standard exhaust. Excuse the puffs of smoke but none of the oil breathers are connected at the moment and it hasn't been run in a month!
980kb Video with sound
I love the little pops and bangs that 205 GTI's make, even with a standard exhaust
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Figured i might as well ask here since you have one installed 
Engine bay braces; i dont see why they are needed/how much difference they will make, i guess it reduces chassis flex, therefore reducing mid corner grip, but increases steering response. But how noticable is this/are there any other reasons for using one?
Engine bay braces; i dont see why they are needed/how much difference they will make, i guess it reduces chassis flex, therefore reducing mid corner grip, but increases steering response. But how noticable is this/are there any other reasons for using one?
That's pretty much it.Berger said:Figured i might as well ask here since you have one installed
Engine bay braces; i dont see why they are needed/how much difference they will make, i guess it reduces chassis flex, therefore reducing mid corner grip, but increases steering response. But how noticable is this/are there any other reasons for using one?
They reduce flex between the inner wings/strut tops - something that flimsy 80's hatches are prone to. How noticable is the difference? Dunno, I'll tell you when I've driven it
Today's job, whilst dodging the showers, was to fit bonnet pins. These stop the bonnet flying up and whacking into the windscreen, plus they look cool.
I chose OMP ones - I normally go for the captive pin type but fancied giving these classic style ones a whirl:
They come with a lovely anodised alloy pin, but ignore that because OMP use anodising so thin you only have to swear at it and it wears through. So I'll probably sand the heads back to bare alloy or it'll look scruffy.
First off, decide where on the slam panel you want the pins. The closer to the corner the better, but remember you have to have space under where you are drilling for the pin to bolt! When a spot was picked, I made a cross of tape on each side to drill the pilot holes.
After drilling the pilot holes, I needed to enlarge them slightly with a file (ok, I cheated and pushed my drill sideways whilst in the hole, but this will eventually wreck your drill and will snap thinner drillbits. I use a cheap B&Q drill so I don't care.)
When the hole was large enough, I slotted in the pin, and placed the locknuts on either end of it. No need to worry about the height level just yet.
So now I needed a corresponding hole in the bonnet. Easiest way to do this is put a blob of grease or something on the top of the pins and then drop the bonnet. The grease will mark the bonnet and you know where to drill. Handy eh?
Part 2 shortly....
I chose OMP ones - I normally go for the captive pin type but fancied giving these classic style ones a whirl:
They come with a lovely anodised alloy pin, but ignore that because OMP use anodising so thin you only have to swear at it and it wears through. So I'll probably sand the heads back to bare alloy or it'll look scruffy.
First off, decide where on the slam panel you want the pins. The closer to the corner the better, but remember you have to have space under where you are drilling for the pin to bolt! When a spot was picked, I made a cross of tape on each side to drill the pilot holes.
After drilling the pilot holes, I needed to enlarge them slightly with a file (ok, I cheated and pushed my drill sideways whilst in the hole, but this will eventually wreck your drill and will snap thinner drillbits. I use a cheap B&Q drill so I don't care.)
When the hole was large enough, I slotted in the pin, and placed the locknuts on either end of it. No need to worry about the height level just yet.
So now I needed a corresponding hole in the bonnet. Easiest way to do this is put a blob of grease or something on the top of the pins and then drop the bonnet. The grease will mark the bonnet and you know where to drill. Handy eh?
Part 2 shortly....
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Now I had 2 black blobs under my bonnet. So, I firstly drilled through - the bonnet is double skinned here:
And then enlarged the holes until the pins fit through comfortably. This is a slow process, you have to keep stopping and checking so you don't make a massive gaping hole and wreck the bonnet.
Eventually, the pins poked through comfortably.
Now I adjusted the height and alignment of the pins using the 2 nuts above and below the slam panel until they sat at the correct height.
The rest was easy. Just placed the round panels over the pins and drilled 3 small holes for the self tapping screws. After that, I looped the slider ties round and slid the pins into place. Viola.
Wahey, it's almost starting to look purposeful now.
And then enlarged the holes until the pins fit through comfortably. This is a slow process, you have to keep stopping and checking so you don't make a massive gaping hole and wreck the bonnet.
Eventually, the pins poked through comfortably.
Now I adjusted the height and alignment of the pins using the 2 nuts above and below the slam panel until they sat at the correct height.
The rest was easy. Just placed the round panels over the pins and drilled 3 small holes for the self tapping screws. After that, I looped the slider ties round and slid the pins into place. Viola.
Wahey, it's almost starting to look purposeful now.
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Soldato
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 5,600
- Location
- Surrey
I presume that you now remoce the standard latch mechanism for the bonet as it's not needed?
Looking good Lopez, you're really cracking on with it, puts my motivation to shame, have you got the first event chosen?
HT
Looking good Lopez, you're really cracking on with it, puts my motivation to shame, have you got the first event chosen?
HT
Well I'd have loved to get the car out in early December, but it needs a small plate welding on the inner wing, and I won't have sump guards ready by then, so it won't be until next season starts in March now. 
Yep, the standard bonnet catch can now be removed. The pull breaks very easily on 205's and 309's anyway so I'm glad to be shot of it. You can retain it if you want to - just makes opening the bonnet very laborious!
Yep, the standard bonnet catch can now be removed. The pull breaks very easily on 205's and 309's anyway so I'm glad to be shot of it. You can retain it if you want to - just makes opening the bonnet very laborious!
Looking good. it's only 2 weeks since I trahsed the 309 and decided to go to navigating and I'm already looking at chevettes on ebay. It's addictive this rallying thing.
What are standard 205 bumpers like? As you'll have to loose the spots anyway for the 4 forward facing beam rule, is there anything to gain in a standard bumper? On the 309 it's harder to catch the standard one on verges.
. it's only 2 weeks since I trahsed the 309 and decided to go to navigating and I'm already looking at chevettes on ebay. It's addictive this rallying thing.What are standard 205 bumpers like? As you'll have to loose the spots anyway for the 4 forward facing beam rule, is there anything to gain in a standard bumper? On the 309 it's harder to catch the standard one on verges.
mk1_salami
mk1_salami
Lopez I'm looking to buy a 205 GTI very soon, but for road use - not rallying. I've got a feeling they might be unreliable, is this the case - compared to say .... the same age Golf GTI? Also what other things do you look for when buying one?