Come on L1J how's the Golf going? I'm flying along here
Slowly but surely!
Some of us are busy ripping things off and havent got time to post on the internet
Nice progress, keep it up
My Rally Project
- Thread starter Lopéz
- Start date
Some of us are busy ripping things off and havent got time to post on the internet
Nice progress, keep it up
Not really OT but didnt think it deserved a new thread.
Came to fit my steel caged 620ti box today which i converted to fit a 200.
The old box came off fine with a bit of a wiggle after i undid all the bolts and removed all the driveshafts and front subframe.
I cant refit the new box though, it wont go on flush.
I have the gearbox offered up to the plate and then can get some bolts through, have about 5 in total partially through the box but they have all gone reasonably tight now and i dont want to tighten them up more incase i crack another gearbox case!
I would have thought that once the shaft was through the middle of the clutch it would just need a bit of wiggling around and then it would pop onto the one dowel (at the back by the starter motor) and then a case of just bolt it to the face.
Its sitting approximatly half an inch off flush all the way around the face of the gearbox/plate and it wont move at all, any attempts to wiggle the box cause the whole engine to move!
Any help much apprechiated as this was the only weekend ill have for a while to work on the car and as i had the box off by lunchtime and then spent most of the afternoon just trying to fit the new one im a bit miffed!
Cheers.
Came to fit my steel caged 620ti box today which i converted to fit a 200.
The old box came off fine with a bit of a wiggle after i undid all the bolts and removed all the driveshafts and front subframe.
I cant refit the new box though, it wont go on flush.
I have the gearbox offered up to the plate and then can get some bolts through, have about 5 in total partially through the box but they have all gone reasonably tight now and i dont want to tighten them up more incase i crack another gearbox case!
I would have thought that once the shaft was through the middle of the clutch it would just need a bit of wiggling around and then it would pop onto the one dowel (at the back by the starter motor) and then a case of just bolt it to the face.
Its sitting approximatly half an inch off flush all the way around the face of the gearbox/plate and it wont move at all, any attempts to wiggle the box cause the whole engine to move!
Any help much apprechiated as this was the only weekend ill have for a while to work on the car and as i had the box off by lunchtime and then spent most of the afternoon just trying to fit the new one im a bit miffed!
Cheers.
Hmmm... just a thought, but on the 205 between the engine and gearbox mating faces there are dowel like metal sleeves (they look like the copper olives you use on copper plumbing pipes) Sometimes when you remove the gearbox they stay on the engine, sometimes they come off with the box. Anything like that to cause a blockage on the Rover?
This afternoon I have mostly been wiring!
The wiring loom for the lights on the 205 is terrible. Full of pathetically weak earths, the thinnest wire known to man, dodgy connectors, the lot.
So I'm junking it all, relaying everything and putting in fresh wire.
Before I did that I fitted the new bonnet pins:
Can't really adjust them up properly until I refit the bonnet which won't be for a while!
This was the situation at 2:30:
Lots of fresh wire laid in place to get the lengths etc right.
After a lot of cutting and heatshrink and cable tying....
Still looks a mess but it makes sense at least. This is the wiring for the headlamps and Cibie spotlights. I still have to make the loom for the indicators, side repeaters, sidelights and lower driving lights!
This afternoon I have mostly been wiring!
The wiring loom for the lights on the 205 is terrible. Full of pathetically weak earths, the thinnest wire known to man, dodgy connectors, the lot.
So I'm junking it all, relaying everything and putting in fresh wire.
Before I did that I fitted the new bonnet pins:
Can't really adjust them up properly until I refit the bonnet which won't be for a while!
This was the situation at 2:30:
Lots of fresh wire laid in place to get the lengths etc right.
After a lot of cutting and heatshrink and cable tying....
Still looks a mess but it makes sense at least. This is the wiring for the headlamps and Cibie spotlights. I still have to make the loom for the indicators, side repeaters, sidelights and lower driving lights!
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Braver man than me doing your own wiring!
My gearbox is miles off sitting on the dowels, about a half inch before the faces go flush and the dowels stick out by about a quarter inch. Going to have to remove and try and refit it myself in the week, but its going to be cold and dark and crappy
My gearbox is miles off sitting on the dowels, about a half inch before the faces go flush and the dowels stick out by about a quarter inch. Going to have to remove and try and refit it myself in the week, but its going to be cold and dark and crappy
Soldato
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Good progress. 
You are right when you say the lighting loom on 205's are useless...
I noticed my headlights are brighter and whiter after taking a (fused) feed directly from the battery. Even the rear lights are only getting 10v or so, so this is next on the to fix list..
You are right when you say the lighting loom on 205's are useless...I noticed my headlights are brighter and whiter after taking a (fused) feed directly from the battery.
Even the rear lights are only getting 10v or so, so this is next on the to fix list..Once you take the wiring back to basics by working methodically, it's quite simple. I'll still be using the original switched feeds from the loom for main and dip because go right the way back to the stalk.
They will be linked to relays (6 in all - Dip - Beam - Cibie Oscar - 1 for each side of the car, making 6 in all. Meaning that if one goes I shouldn't lose the pair (which is what happens if you relay a pair of spots together)
The relays will take their power from an alternate source, namely my live point on the bulkhead (my battery is in the boot)
They will earth to a nice chunky earthing point on the slam panel (1 each side actually) because the standard earth points are grim - if you have ever seen them on a 205 you will understand what I mean.
I'm only replacing the lower driving light/sidelight/indicator loom because all the connectors are worn and/or broken - made sense to do it all together.
Tonight - mount the relays, and start connecting things up. Then it's time to reconnect the battery and make sure it all actually works
They will be linked to relays (6 in all - Dip - Beam - Cibie Oscar - 1 for each side of the car, making 6 in all. Meaning that if one goes I shouldn't lose the pair (which is what happens if you relay a pair of spots together)
The relays will take their power from an alternate source, namely my live point on the bulkhead (my battery is in the boot)
They will earth to a nice chunky earthing point on the slam panel (1 each side actually) because the standard earth points are grim - if you have ever seen them on a 205 you will understand what I mean.
I'm only replacing the lower driving light/sidelight/indicator loom because all the connectors are worn and/or broken - made sense to do it all together.
Tonight - mount the relays, and start connecting things up. Then it's time to reconnect the battery and make sure it all actually works
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Is the clutch actually on the splines or sat on the end of the shaft?My gearbox is miles off sitting on the dowels, about a half inch before the faces go flush and the dowels stick out by about a quarter inch. Going to have to remove and try and refit it myself in the week, but its going to be cold and dark and crappy
I had the splines going against the splines, not sure why i couldnt turn the crank over on Sunday.
Borrowed a crane and some strip lights then worked all night in the road with strip lights and my work vans, backed the box off, faffed about for 2 hours trying to fit the box, turned the crank over, had another go at fitting it and it went back on first time not a problem.
Just have to get the rest of the front end rebuilt and then refit a CV boot as i pulled it off the driveshaft accidentally. Couple of hours work left now, probably get most done tomorrow as long as its not wet.
Okay, bit more potching done.
While I'm waiting for some fuel hose and new relays to turn up I have got stuck in to the interior.
This is the dashboard centre panel - that space taken up by a clock and ashtray is space I need!
So out they go to be replaced by a carbon plate
This gives me loads of room to mount the battery cut off switch, other switches, dual cigar lighter etc.
A bit of a mess inside though!
Cramped working conditions do not help, but we'll get there!
Engine hoist on order and should be here this week, few bits and bobs to do in the engine bay before I slot the engine and box back in though.
Right - back to work
While I'm waiting for some fuel hose and new relays to turn up I have got stuck in to the interior.
This is the dashboard centre panel - that space taken up by a clock and ashtray is space I need!
So out they go to be replaced by a carbon plate
This gives me loads of room to mount the battery cut off switch, other switches, dual cigar lighter etc.
A bit of a mess inside though!
Cramped working conditions do not help, but we'll get there!
Engine hoist on order and should be here this week, few bits and bobs to do in the engine bay before I slot the engine and box back in though.
Right - back to work
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Hydraulic handbrake test fit tonight revealed that the stock handbrake cables are too raised and close together for the hydro bracket to slot between them.
Some serious grinder abuse (and 2 discs) needed to trim this hefty mother down. Still nice and solid but now it fits to the floorpan. (Yes, I will clean up the edges before I install the bracket!)
These are the handbrake cables that caused the problem
Setup will look something like this:
But I have a problem. The hydro operates by the handbrake lever pushing the plunger on the master cylinder. But there isn't much leverage from the stock lever and I don't think the master cylinder will be acted on enough to be effective.
See what I mean? There is very little back and forth movement due to the shallow angle of the stock handbrake lever. Can anyone think of a simple way to increase the levers action on the cylinder? I don't really want to have to buy/make a seperate vertical lever just for the hydro....
Some serious grinder abuse (and 2 discs) needed to trim this hefty mother down. Still nice and solid but now it fits to the floorpan. (Yes, I will clean up the edges before I install the bracket!)
These are the handbrake cables that caused the problem
Setup will look something like this:
But I have a problem. The hydro operates by the handbrake lever pushing the plunger on the master cylinder. But there isn't much leverage from the stock lever and I don't think the master cylinder will be acted on enough to be effective.
See what I mean? There is very little back and forth movement due to the shallow angle of the stock handbrake lever. Can anyone think of a simple way to increase the levers action on the cylinder? I don't really want to have to buy/make a seperate vertical lever just for the hydro....
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You'll have to weld a long tab on the top of the handbrake. It's going to depend how far the cylinder has to go in to operate the brake and how far up you can pull the handbrake before the cables stop it. The best thing to do is look on the foot brake to see how much movement you need, then theortically you can effectively half it because you're only operating the back brakes, not all 4 wheels.
Mock it up in cardboard first but I think you'll have to mount the cylinder up quite high. Tack it together first and check it works before final welding, then it'll be easier to pull apart and redesign.
Mock it up in cardboard first but I think you'll have to mount the cylinder up quite high. Tack it together first and check it works before final welding, then it'll be easier to pull apart and redesign.
Soldato
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Surely anything that gives it a longer action will sacrifice your leverage on it.
I'd have a second hand brake, reet near the wheel, like the WRC cars.
I'd have a second hand brake, reet near the wheel, like the WRC cars.
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also be aware that the std lever and its mounting point may well fall apart as there not designed for the abuse youll give them using a set up like that, and also youll have problems when it comes to mot time for the car as i helive if your on a hydralic handbrake you need a twin line system to pass......
Soldato
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On the top shot there's the end of a screw threaded rod sticking out beneath the handbrake. You could mount the cylinder further back and use the existing rod(s) at the bottom of the brake to activate a rocker mounted on a pivot to push the pluinger back. Kind of like a Z pivot like L1J mentioned (don't know how he drew his mechanism)
Associate
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One really big question here.... are you going to rally this car??? if so do you know what class its going to run.... and do you have a copy of the regs / blue book to work to? as a few minor changes from original spec can make a huge difference to the class
Yep the standard mount is known for being weak and will be stitch welded to beef it up
Nope you don't, cable handbrake is being retained too.
Yes I am, yes I have the Blue Book, I've done this many times over with my own cars, friends cars, etc.
