My Rally Project

Lopéz said:
Well, I did break the black one but that was more a "salvage" operation than breaking a good one for spares (which is what seems to be happening more and more :() I never give up on cars until they are thoroughly dead :D
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no offence mate

but i think everybody on ocuk is aware of that

in fact, id go so far as to say your famous for it ;)
 
Just ordered some Bilt-Hamber Hydrate 80 to treat my rusty patches in the engine bay. I'll wire wheel them back to metal, give them a coat of DeOx Gel, then coat in Hydrate 80 primer. After the local repairs are done the whole engine bay can have a coat of high build 2 pack primer followed by a topcoat of Diamond White.

Anyone sprayed 2 pack at home? I'm going to give my electric HVLP gun a whirl, not tried it out yet. It's a proper Apollo Spraymate, not a cheapo fence spraying thing :p
 
I must say, the front end of that 205 is very rust-free, you don't want to know about what was behind the bumper of my Topaz:eek:
 
Lopéz said:
Anyone sprayed 2 pack at home? I'm going to give my electric HVLP gun a whirl, not tried it out yet. It's a proper Apollo Spraymate, not a cheapo fence spraying thing :p
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2pack? Hmmm, Sounds nasty stuff that.

This paint contains isocyanates. If that word looks familiar, think of cyanide. When this paint is being sprayed, the spray can be considered as dangerous as sprayed cyanide gas. In the worst case, death can result from inhalation of 2 Pack paint fumes. In the best case, the immune system is seriously impaired resulting in increased susceptibility to minor diseases and a great magnification of the symptoms.

This paint is not suitable for use by the home painter. Professionals must wear full-body protection with air-fed masks kept at higher than atmospheric pressure to prevent isocyanates from entering the mask. Spraying is done in a filtered spray booth equipped with heating equipment to bake the finish and reduce the drying time.
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Apparently you can get non-isocyanite versions of 2 pack though (Autopaint do it, apparently, not sure about others).
 
Thanks volospian - yeah I've read similar things about 2k paint. In fact I've read everything from "OMG don't even open the tin because it will KILL YOU" to "2k is in reality no more hazardous than any other form of paint"

I did a load of reading up on it and unfortunately pretty much everything written about it is debating the safety issues rather than tips on how to actually spray with it.

I know all about safety precautions to be taken with it, what I need really is feedback on the actual use of the stuff - ie spray settings, how best to mix it, etc.
 
Yeah, I'd imagine if decent precautions are taken it would be ok. I also sort of assumed that you would be sensible enough to look into what it needs to make home spraying of any paint safe. I just posted that more as a general warning to anybody else reading. I didn't want people heading off into their garages with a bucket of 2 pack and a fence sprayer "cos I read it on a forum" :D

I've got one of these that I still haven't used yet. Don't know what paint I'll be using, celly probably. I won't be doing a full respray so I'll need something that will blend into whatever is already on there and people say 2 pack doesn't finish like cellulose.

Alternatively I may just strip it all out and send it to the pro's for a full respray while I rebuild the engine, I just don't know if I can afford that :(
 
Woa I can't believe I've never read this thread.

This has been a journey of a project :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Got a decent amount done tonight.

Made a start on the drivers side front panel corrosion with a wire wheel and then a good coating of Bilt-Hamber Deox Gel.

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Then I removed the radiator, alternator, inlet manifold, AFM, throttle body, all the engine wiring loom and some hoses so the engine is *almost* ready to come off it's mountings

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Next step? Err, dunno :D Probably pop off the gear linkage, then undo the exhaust manifold, rad hoses behind the engine and loosen off the mounts. Oh and take out the driveshafts. Then the engine will be ready to pull I think.
 
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Lopéz said:
Next step? Err, dunno :D Probably pop off the gear linkage, then undo the exhaust manifold, rad hoses behind the engine and loosen off the mounts. Oh and take out the driveshafts. Then the engine will be ready to pull I think.
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Are you going to be putting the same lump back in or are you going to put in a Mi16 or something like that in there? (I haven't gone thru the whole thread yet) :o
 
MikeHunt79 said:
Are you going to be putting the same lump back in or are you going to put in a Mi16 or something like that in there? (I haven't gone thru the whole thread yet) :o
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Nah, I want to keep it 8v.

1.9 going in to replace the 1.6. Ideally I'd keep a 1.6 in there but I don't have one lying about.

Tonight I took off a few more pipes, cracked off the gearbox bellhousing bolts and loosened the engine mounts. Driveshafts next but I need a big socket for the hub first.
 
30mm socket ordered (mine has gone walkies in the move)

Hydrate 80 rust converter/barrier arrived!

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This will be used to treat the rust blobs and seams on the inner wings before priming

And lovely carbon goodness, mmmmmm

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For switch mounting and little bits like that :)
 
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Lopéz said:
Nah, I want to keep it 8v.

1.9 going in to replace the 1.6. Ideally I'd keep a 1.6 in there but I don't have one lying about.
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Probably for the best - Mi16 conversions can be quite a lot of hassle, and it's a tight squeeze. Someone up the road from me has done it, and he's had no end of troubles. :eek: Keep it up. :)
 
Biggest problem with the Mi is that most of the donor engines knocking around for sale are reaching the end of their useful life, and rebuild parts are not as cheap as the 8v. Even then, grubby "just yanked out of the scrapyard" ones seem to still be fetching £400+ which I can't justify on a fun car.
 
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