My silly old overpriced Nissan thread. S15 content here.
- Thread starter Clarkey
- Start date
Then it seems reasonable, providing the condition is as good as the photos suggest. For me, I would be more interested to see bucket seat, coilovers and arms. The engine is ready to go to gt2871r/3071r with just a tune though, which is handy I suppose. I guess a mint S14 is a rarity though so you take what you can get.
Yellow one is not the same that I was thinking. Agreed on PS13, love them and would have one any day. Problem is they are old and finding a clean example is near impossible even in Japan. Those that exist command a high price. This looks perfect to me though, a true JDM classic.
To me, 14s are to Silvias what R33 are to Skylines, bland looking is the kindest thing I could say. Best thing is to donate all their engines to NA 15s
Not sure on the injectors, I know my friends auto s15 (they have 370s) runs to 330hp, could have changed them out I suppose but I don't think so. One thing I do know is the box crapped itself really quick
To me, 14s are to Silvias what R33 are to Skylines, bland looking is the kindest thing I could say. Best thing is to donate all their engines to NA 15s
Not sure on the injectors, I know my friends auto s15 (they have 370s) runs to 330hp, could have changed them out I suppose but I don't think so. One thing I do know is the box crapped itself really quick
Progress report.
Got MOT today, no advisories which was nice. Can now register it at my leisure.
Bought some BC racing BR coilovers, so next week the car will be lowered. Thank the lord, the car was the highest thing in a car park full of old man Volvos today, not good!
Bought a zenki s14 wiring loom with the hope of doing some trickery and getting the new engine going. The guy pulled out of the sale after it was supposedly signed and sealed, not happy, they are not easy to find.
This puts me in a bit of a dillema. Should I continue searching for one and face the hassle of having to chop up two looms to make a working one, or do I pay Garage D over £300 for a factory Spec-R ecu and loom? The latter option is by far the easiest, simply plug and play. It would also mean I could sell the Spec-S motor set complete, which would cover the cost.
Got MOT today, no advisories which was nice. Can now register it at my leisure.
Bought some BC racing BR coilovers, so next week the car will be lowered. Thank the lord, the car was the highest thing in a car park full of old man Volvos today, not good!
Bought a zenki s14 wiring loom with the hope of doing some trickery and getting the new engine going. The guy pulled out of the sale after it was supposedly signed and sealed, not happy, they are not easy to find.
This puts me in a bit of a dillema. Should I continue searching for one and face the hassle of having to chop up two looms to make a working one, or do I pay Garage D over £300 for a factory Spec-R ecu and loom? The latter option is by far the easiest, simply plug and play. It would also mean I could sell the Spec-S motor set complete, which would cover the cost.
Spent some more time going over wiring diagrams and sketchy information on differences between models. Decided it was a head-**** and just get an original R loom as per your advice. By some minor miracle I bagged one for a cheaper price than GarageD wanted so basically my wiring worries are over. All I need now is the front part of the exhaust and an intercooler then the engine stuff is ready to go.
Scholl concepts polish turned up today so I can hopefully do the paint correction with good results.
Coilovers should be here tomorrow so I'll get it lowered and some more pics up. Swapped the 235/45 front tyres to 225/45 the other day too so that should improve the look.
Scholl concepts polish turned up today so I can hopefully do the paint correction with good results.
Coilovers should be here tomorrow so I'll get it lowered and some more pics up. Swapped the 235/45 front tyres to 225/45 the other day too so that should improve the look.
Pretty BC racing parts arrived and then this happened 
There are issues, but it looks so good. In fact, I'm torn if I should bother fitting the skirts now, kind of looks good with naked sills.
Fronts need spacing because they are rubbing the springs, and they look weak. Rears are pretty strong fitment wise, I had to dial the camber to max just to get it anywhere near close to fitting. It's sitting arse down anyway so I will raise the rear a bit and get the arches rolled and pulled a bit so I can have sensible geo. Will change from 255/40 to 245/40 too, that will give some more room.
There are issues, but it looks so good. In fact, I'm torn if I should bother fitting the skirts now, kind of looks good with naked sills.
Fronts need spacing because they are rubbing the springs, and they look weak. Rears are pretty strong fitment wise, I had to dial the camber to max just to get it anywhere near close to fitting. It's sitting arse down anyway so I will raise the rear a bit and get the arches rolled and pulled a bit so I can have sensible geo. Will change from 255/40 to 245/40 too, that will give some more room.
So, since last time I raised up the rear 30mm.
Much more sensible. There are issues with there being almost no droop travel available in the rear shocks though. I basically need to install helper springs, luckily I have some spare off the BMW.
Got the spec-r ecu and loom, 440 injectors, 69f01 MAF. Kind of got let down on the coilpacks, borrowed s14 igniter.
Got 2.75" elbow, 3" downpipe & 'cat'. Got autobahn88 FMIC kit.
Pulled this heap out of it.
Pedal powered it a bit
Put this one back in.
So now all I need to do is...
Install the AC and PAS pumps
Connect lower loom (big PITA)
Take out old loom and ECU and replace.
Install new injectors
Join the s14 igniter into s15 loom
Plug it all in
Install belts, AC tensioner, fan and set all up
Install FMIC and radiator
Install cat-back section
Fill with oils/coolant
Pray
Turn the key.
Much more sensible. There are issues with there being almost no droop travel available in the rear shocks though. I basically need to install helper springs, luckily I have some spare off the BMW.
Got the spec-r ecu and loom, 440 injectors, 69f01 MAF. Kind of got let down on the coilpacks, borrowed s14 igniter.
Got 2.75" elbow, 3" downpipe & 'cat'. Got autobahn88 FMIC kit.
Pulled this heap out of it.
Pedal powered it a bit
Put this one back in.
So now all I need to do is...
Install the AC and PAS pumps
Connect lower loom (big PITA)
Take out old loom and ECU and replace.
Install new injectors
Join the s14 igniter into s15 loom
Plug it all in
Install belts, AC tensioner, fan and set all up
Install FMIC and radiator
Install cat-back section
Fill with oils/coolant
Pray
Turn the key.
Was really a schoolboy error forgetting to transfer the AC bracket to the new engine while it was out. Spent nearly 3 hours cursing at it this afternoon trying to get that thing back in. Definitely should have just pulled the engine back out to fit it when I realised the mistake and it was still attached to the hoist, live and learn hey. No fun doing up bolts using 2 extensions and 2 UJs, but the pumps are back on, some other shiny bits moved from the old engine, airbox removed.
The sump pan needs replacing, it got damaged heavily while manhandling the engine around, got a new one so next time will replace that, reconnect the lower loom, pull the new loom through and pull the fuel rail.
The sump pan needs replacing, it got damaged heavily while manhandling the engine around, got a new one so next time will replace that, reconnect the lower loom, pull the new loom through and pull the fuel rail.
5th hour of trying to get the engine loom out now, really the worst job ever, changing the engine was 100 times easier.
Currently trying to remove the worlds most inaccessible bolt so I can get the blower unit free and expose the hole in the bulkhead. Not happening though, trying to remove the airbag so I can get it from the top but that's not happening either. Followed the FSM procedure but it ain't shifting at all. Might have to take the dash top out and that is a big nightmare of a job.
Today = bad day.
Currently trying to remove the worlds most inaccessible bolt so I can get the blower unit free and expose the hole in the bulkhead. Not happening though, trying to remove the airbag so I can get it from the top but that's not happening either. Followed the FSM procedure but it ain't shifting at all. Might have to take the dash top out and that is a big nightmare of a job.
Today = bad day.
Got that sorted and in. Naturally thought here are a number of snags as with everything on this wretched car. The loom, MAF plug is missing, *****ed off about this tbh, I paid good money for it and already had to repair the injector wires that had been cut. The ABS plugs don't fit the SpecS ABS ECU, guess I will source a SpecR ABS computer and hope that it works out.
Pass airbag now doesn't sit flush with the dash any more, unhappy about this will have to spend more time fiddling with it.
Pass airbag now doesn't sit flush with the dash any more, unhappy about this will have to spend more time fiddling with it.
Got some more stuff connected today, thought I'd hook up some electricity and see what the deal is.
I plugged the laptop in and connected right up to the ECU, everything appears good. Everything that is connected is showing a good reading, active tests are working.
It cranks on the key so that's positive.
ABS light is on, there's no ABS computer connected so fair enough.
Check engine light is also on, but I've reset the DTCs and am getting Code 55: No faults, so IDK why the check light is on. Maybe it is because of the ABS, or maybe because I have no coils, injectors, MAF or AAC connected. I'll resolve these problems then try again.
Tomorrow I think I'll get the new sump on and get it back on the ground and some oil in it.
I plugged the laptop in and connected right up to the ECU, everything appears good. Everything that is connected is showing a good reading, active tests are working.
It cranks on the key so that's positive.
ABS light is on, there's no ABS computer connected so fair enough.
Check engine light is also on, but I've reset the DTCs and am getting Code 55: No faults, so IDK why the check light is on. Maybe it is because of the ABS, or maybe because I have no coils, injectors, MAF or AAC connected. I'll resolve these problems then try again.
Tomorrow I think I'll get the new sump on and get it back on the ground and some oil in it.
ABS problem is solved, in the end I just took the plugs off the Spec S loom and plugged it into the existing computer and that seems to be working, ABS malfunction light comes on and off as it should.
Turns out the plug difference is not to do with Spec S and R difference, rather a model year thing. Mine is a late model with 85F20 unit, the loom is from an early model with 91F00 unit. At some point the ABS units changed over from 85F00/91F00 to 85F20/91F20. The 85 ones Spec S and 91 Spec R, plugs are the same for both 00's and both 20's.
I looked up the check engine light behaviour in the manual and it is normal for it to stay lit until the engine is started so I'll assume there is no problem there.
Took the sump off the other day to swap it for one in much better condition. The oil pickup looks a little dubious so I am going to replace it with a new one, this has set back the oil filling situation. Has given me a little time to sort out the oil pressure switch though, the S15 switch connector doesn't fit onto the S14 switch so I guess I'll just swap the switches over.
I'm going to need a boost gauge for it, saw this one and it looks really handy with the oil temp on there too. Depo any good or a load of tat?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360649231917?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Turns out the plug difference is not to do with Spec S and R difference, rather a model year thing. Mine is a late model with 85F20 unit, the loom is from an early model with 91F00 unit. At some point the ABS units changed over from 85F00/91F00 to 85F20/91F20. The 85 ones Spec S and 91 Spec R, plugs are the same for both 00's and both 20's.
I looked up the check engine light behaviour in the manual and it is normal for it to stay lit until the engine is started so I'll assume there is no problem there.
Took the sump off the other day to swap it for one in much better condition. The oil pickup looks a little dubious so I am going to replace it with a new one, this has set back the oil filling situation. Has given me a little time to sort out the oil pressure switch though, the S15 switch connector doesn't fit onto the S14 switch so I guess I'll just swap the switches over.
I'm going to need a boost gauge for it, saw this one and it looks really handy with the oil temp on there too. Depo any good or a load of tat?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360649231917?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://nissandatascan.com/
Got it donkeys ago for the 300, happily it is compatible with Silvias too.
Got it donkeys ago for the 300, happily it is compatible with Silvias too.