*****My WOT4 MK2 Nitro RC Plane Assembly Log****
- Thread starter DJMK4
- Start date
Problem
Well looks like im going to have to order replacement parts from ripmax dont know if i mentioned this, but i had a problem with elevator alignment, there was a twist in the bar, which meant i had to remove the elevators, cut the hindges out, correct bar twist and re-install, problem is I couldnt remove the old hinges from the slots when they were glued in, i used debonder but the old hinges are still stuck in the slots meaning I cant install new ones. the slots are looking kinda shabby now because I have tried removing them, the tail plane slots are not damaged as such but the hindges are still stuck in the slots.
The elevator slots are slightly worse for wear.
Here is the pic
Suggested Solution
Two ways, first the easy one:
1. If you can't get the old hinges out just cut them off flush with the tailplane and the elevator. Then cut yourself some new slots - away from the old ones - and install new hinges. With a bit of care, once its all together no one but you will ever know! You can buy new mylar hinges (or mylar strip to cut them from) from any decent hobby shop and it only costs "buttons"! In the old days I didn't even buy the mylar (had no money when I was a student!) so I used to use the plastic stuff they made floppy discs from after roughing it up with a bit of wire wool!
When fitting the new hinges just make a neat slit in the tailplane (away from the first attempt slits) with a sharp knife, then drill a 1mm hole at the centre of the slit. Put a dressmakers pin in the centre of your hinge (at right angles to the plane of the hinge) then insert the hinge in the slit - right upto the pin. Next make a matching slit in the elevator - again drill a 1mm hole in the centre of the slit. Put say two hinges each side (left and right). Then assemble the elevator to the tailplane - being careful to check that the hinges are more or less half in the elevator and half in the tailplane (that's one of the reasons for the pin). Push the two parts together - so trapping the pins in the hinges. Now remove the pins - but don't close the gap they created (that's the second reason for the pin). Carefully bend back the elevator and put two or three drops (not more) of cyno onto the bit of hinge material you can see. This cyno will "wick" into the slit - using the 1mm hole you drilled - and will fix the hinges. Turn the tailplane and elevator over and do the same on the other side. Give the whole thing a couple of minutes to settle, then work the elevator up and down just incase any cyno got to where it shouldn't. Result - instant hinged elevator! Much better than using epoxy.
2. If the elevator is really, really chewed up - and it doesn't look it, but if it is, just use it as a "pattern" to make another new one. This second method needs a bit more work. Get some suitable thickness balsa from a model shop, draw round the existing elevator and cut out. The new elevator will be a little bit oversize - because of the drawing around - so just gently sand it until it exactly matches the old one. When you are at the model shop buying the balsa buy 1m of white Solarfilm off the roll at the same time. For instructions on how to apply the Solarfilm just go to Solarfilm's website - they have two excellent videos there that show you how to do it. Don't worry about having a special iron like in the video for this job, just borrow the household iron - but be careful to set the temperature right using the technique they show in the video.
I'd try method one first if I were you - then if that doesn't work - e.g. you cant find enough tailplane/elevator area for new slits - then use method two. Either of these will get you sorted at a fraction of the cost/time of trying to get spares! Aeromodellers tend to be very proud of their ability to repair stuff without using spares - its part of the fun. And its how you start to get more interested in building more complex models!
Good luck - any questions, just ask!
BEB
Well looks like im going to have to order replacement parts from ripmax dont know if i mentioned this, but i had a problem with elevator alignment, there was a twist in the bar, which meant i had to remove the elevators, cut the hindges out, correct bar twist and re-install, problem is I couldnt remove the old hinges from the slots when they were glued in, i used debonder but the old hinges are still stuck in the slots meaning I cant install new ones. the slots are looking kinda shabby now because I have tried removing them, the tail plane slots are not damaged as such but the hindges are still stuck in the slots.
The elevator slots are slightly worse for wear.
Here is the pic
Suggested Solution
Two ways, first the easy one:
1. If you can't get the old hinges out just cut them off flush with the tailplane and the elevator. Then cut yourself some new slots - away from the old ones - and install new hinges. With a bit of care, once its all together no one but you will ever know! You can buy new mylar hinges (or mylar strip to cut them from) from any decent hobby shop and it only costs "buttons"! In the old days I didn't even buy the mylar (had no money when I was a student!) so I used to use the plastic stuff they made floppy discs from after roughing it up with a bit of wire wool!
When fitting the new hinges just make a neat slit in the tailplane (away from the first attempt slits) with a sharp knife, then drill a 1mm hole at the centre of the slit. Put a dressmakers pin in the centre of your hinge (at right angles to the plane of the hinge) then insert the hinge in the slit - right upto the pin. Next make a matching slit in the elevator - again drill a 1mm hole in the centre of the slit. Put say two hinges each side (left and right). Then assemble the elevator to the tailplane - being careful to check that the hinges are more or less half in the elevator and half in the tailplane (that's one of the reasons for the pin). Push the two parts together - so trapping the pins in the hinges. Now remove the pins - but don't close the gap they created (that's the second reason for the pin). Carefully bend back the elevator and put two or three drops (not more) of cyno onto the bit of hinge material you can see. This cyno will "wick" into the slit - using the 1mm hole you drilled - and will fix the hinges. Turn the tailplane and elevator over and do the same on the other side. Give the whole thing a couple of minutes to settle, then work the elevator up and down just incase any cyno got to where it shouldn't. Result - instant hinged elevator! Much better than using epoxy.
2. If the elevator is really, really chewed up - and it doesn't look it, but if it is, just use it as a "pattern" to make another new one. This second method needs a bit more work. Get some suitable thickness balsa from a model shop, draw round the existing elevator and cut out. The new elevator will be a little bit oversize - because of the drawing around - so just gently sand it until it exactly matches the old one. When you are at the model shop buying the balsa buy 1m of white Solarfilm off the roll at the same time. For instructions on how to apply the Solarfilm just go to Solarfilm's website - they have two excellent videos there that show you how to do it. Don't worry about having a special iron like in the video for this job, just borrow the household iron - but be careful to set the temperature right using the technique they show in the video.
I'd try method one first if I were you - then if that doesn't work - e.g. you cant find enough tailplane/elevator area for new slits - then use method two. Either of these will get you sorted at a fraction of the cost/time of trying to get spares! Aeromodellers tend to be very proud of their ability to repair stuff without using spares - its part of the fun. And its how you start to get more interested in building more complex models!
Good luck - any questions, just ask!
BEB
Got two types of hinges, nylon cyano hinges and plastic hinges, so will see how I go.
Just done abit more on the fuel tank since I got back
I have 3 pipes on the tank
1) Carb line which obviously goes to carb
2) Vent link which is just a tube in the tank bending upwards, then a tube will lead to the exhaust
3) Fill tube, just a straight pipe in to the tank, ill have some rubber tubing on the outside of the tank attached to this line, then I got to think of a way to stop it, ill probably use a stopper or something but the tube is really small so not sure just a stopper will suffice, maybe a tap will be better with an input and an output. the output connected to the tube in to the tank, then I can attach my pump to the input when im filling, then when not in use I can close the tap.
Would this be the easiest/best option?
Filter wise I have 3 filters, one will go on the pump when im filling, the other will be from the tanks carb line inbetween the tank and the carb and one as a spare for my box.
PS Malt, it doesnt say to filter anywhere (the instructions are very basic! lol) I think people have their own opinions about filtering, some filter between the pump and the tank, some filter there and between the tank and the carb.
Just dont want anything getting in to the carb, if something makes it through the filter on the pump it could get into the carb and clog it up.
Just done abit more on the fuel tank since I got back
I have 3 pipes on the tank
1) Carb line which obviously goes to carb
2) Vent link which is just a tube in the tank bending upwards, then a tube will lead to the exhaust
3) Fill tube, just a straight pipe in to the tank, ill have some rubber tubing on the outside of the tank attached to this line, then I got to think of a way to stop it, ill probably use a stopper or something but the tube is really small so not sure just a stopper will suffice, maybe a tap will be better with an input and an output. the output connected to the tube in to the tank, then I can attach my pump to the input when im filling, then when not in use I can close the tap.
Would this be the easiest/best option?
Filter wise I have 3 filters, one will go on the pump when im filling, the other will be from the tanks carb line inbetween the tank and the carb and one as a spare for my box.
PS Malt, it doesnt say to filter anywhere (the instructions are very basic! lol) I think people have their own opinions about filtering, some filter between the pump and the tank, some filter there and between the tank and the carb.
Just dont want anything getting in to the carb, if something makes it through the filter on the pump it could get into the carb and clog it up.
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haha that fuel tank is dinky, whole engine is!
Its the more powerful 2 stroke
OK fuel tank completely set-up and tested for leaks by placing in a sink and blowing through all the tubes, looking for bubbles, abit like you would with a bike innatube. No leaking air
Got the tank positioned in the front of the plane alhough its not fitted properly yet, I have also fitted exhaust to engine and got all the fuel/vent/fill lines fed through, I need to trim down the tubes abit as they are abit long so to make them neater ill trim them abit, although this wont be done just yet.
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Ok to answer questions
1) I will use two filters
2) I will use foam dont worry
3) The carb line inside the tank is long enough to just sit above the base of the tank without actually touching the base, if you hold the tank upside down however the tube and clunk does not bend and go towards the top of the tank, this is impossible as not even gravity will make the tube bend back on itself, what I was told was, gravity will do its job and push the fuel to the back of the tank? the only way I could possibly get the tube inside the tank to move bend back on itself would be to make it shorter, which is not a good idea, it needs to be just above the base of the tank.
I have a glow plug, an OS number 8 glow plug which I purchased today, this will be fitted ASAP.
I havnt got a spinner no, was looking at either starting by hand or finding something else to use for the first start. Spent too much money atm so cant really get one for the time being. All the settings for the control throws are listen in the book, im going to be using reduced thows until I get used to it.
Pitch prop? and Exponential? can you explain abit more on these
Thanks
Also here is a short video of my throttle control rod iv just installed, all the rest of the servos have been centered but are not connected to the reciever in this video so it may not look like they were centered, but they are.
Throttle at idle means carb open 1mm to allow start/idle, then full throttle = carb fully open.
1) I will use two filters
2) I will use foam dont worry
3) The carb line inside the tank is long enough to just sit above the base of the tank without actually touching the base, if you hold the tank upside down however the tube and clunk does not bend and go towards the top of the tank, this is impossible as not even gravity will make the tube bend back on itself, what I was told was, gravity will do its job and push the fuel to the back of the tank? the only way I could possibly get the tube inside the tank to move bend back on itself would be to make it shorter, which is not a good idea, it needs to be just above the base of the tank.
I have a glow plug, an OS number 8 glow plug which I purchased today, this will be fitted ASAP.
I havnt got a spinner no, was looking at either starting by hand or finding something else to use for the first start. Spent too much money atm so cant really get one for the time being. All the settings for the control throws are listen in the book, im going to be using reduced thows until I get used to it.
Pitch prop? and Exponential? can you explain abit more on these
Thanks
Also here is a short video of my throttle control rod iv just installed, all the rest of the servos have been centered but are not connected to the reciever in this video so it may not look like they were centered, but they are.
Throttle at idle means carb open 1mm to allow start/idle, then full throttle = carb fully open.
Was a no go im afraid because of specs of rain and some wiring issues. fueled up the ended up having to re-positon my regulator, the glow plug starter crocodile clip and the earth cable are so short I may have to extend (solder) them,
Had trouble getting the cables to reach properly.
Other than that I tested the fueling by the fill tube and defueling by the carb line and all worked fine.
Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day, im going to try to sort out some wiring issues
Had trouble getting the cables to reach properly.
Other than that I tested the fueling by the fill tube and defueling by the carb line and all worked fine.
Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day, im going to try to sort out some wiring issues
Looks like its gonna be great fun Daz, always wanted one or a coptor but i would ditch it in the ground most prob
haha you alright fella
yeh it hopefully should be good. Aint seen you in ages! how you been?OK heres my problem. Iv managed to get the regulator earth cable through, that has enough length to allow the regulator to sit in the radio bay, but the red glow ignition wire (with croc clip) is way too short, so im going to extend it, either a soldering iron or a junction box, a junction box would be a lot easier for me
What type of wire should be ok for this?
What type of wire should be ok for this?
Only reason why I suggested a junction box is because I have no solering iron I dont want to spend more money 
im broke atm, holiday coming up soon....
Maybe a temporary solution = Junction box, permentent soltuon = Solder which I will do later on when im rich again, unless I can find someone with a soldering kit
I dont want to spend more money im broke atm, holiday coming up soon....Maybe a temporary solution = Junction box, permentent soltuon = Solder which I will do later on when im rich again, unless I can find someone with a soldering kit
Cool glad your doing well I seen some pics of you at a LAN that my old boss used to run/help setup.
I think im just going to go down the junction box route for now as its easy to do, when I get hold of a soldering iron ill do a junction box/solder combo
I seen some pics of you at a LAN that my old boss used to run/help setup. I think im just going to go down the junction box route for now as its easy to do, when I get hold of a soldering iron ill do a junction box/solder combo
Local swimming pools
Tell you what get a nice group of 20 something female swimmers, a POV camera/goggle setup and a submarine and you will be rocking
no one would catch you sexual harrasment/perving if your in gym 
May just do the glow stick then, so the lipo battery that came with my regulator, also made by align, instead of the setup being
lipo batt > regulator> reciever
can I just do
lipo batt > reciever
with no risk of damaging the reciever?
lipo batt > regulator> reciever
can I just do
lipo batt > reciever
with no risk of damaging the reciever?
Iv been advised against using the lipo's directly in the reciever, im going to stick with my regulator I think, I got no reason at the moment to change
Going to mount my swich so I can get easily switch off the radio gear and start the engine from outside the plane with the wings on.
Going to mount my swich so I can get easily switch off the radio gear and start the engine from outside the plane with the wings on.
Well here is the video
I got it going, didnt really take a lot, I closed the carb, thumb over carb cylinder, few turns to prime the engine, glow plug on, ingition button on, a few took about 6-8 flips and away it went.
I only run half a tank through it for the moment, I havnt played about with the needle yet but by the last quarter of the tank there was fuel spitting out the exhaust, I heard this is what is supposed to happen when its running ok
There is a lot of plane vibration when I am idling, if I take it up a tiny notch, it doesnt vibrate hardly but you can tell its enough power to start pulling away. Does anyone know how I can get rid of that vibration? as it feels like its going to damage any joins etc.
EDIT: Sorry for the video being the wrong way round, for some reason as soon as they are uploaded to youtube it rotates
I got it going, didnt really take a lot, I closed the carb, thumb over carb cylinder, few turns to prime the engine, glow plug on, ingition button on, a few took about 6-8 flips and away it went.
I only run half a tank through it for the moment, I havnt played about with the needle yet but by the last quarter of the tank there was fuel spitting out the exhaust, I heard this is what is supposed to happen when its running ok
There is a lot of plane vibration when I am idling, if I take it up a tiny notch, it doesnt vibrate hardly but you can tell its enough power to start pulling away. Does anyone know how I can get rid of that vibration? as it feels like its going to damage any joins etc.
EDIT: Sorry for the video being the wrong way round, for some reason as soon as they are uploaded to youtube it rotates
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Even though the vibration is at the back of the plane? Ill have to read up on balancing the prop