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for updated Season 2 Week 8 Leaderboard
for updated Season 2 Week 8 Leaderboard
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Need for Speed Time Trial Championship ** Season 2 ** (Multiplatform)
- Thread starter NIKAZ
- Start date
No Works available on this car, but you can upgrade as much as you want.
This track is very demanding, the slightest mistake sends you way off course. Some corners require aggression, late braking, hard turn-ins whilst others require patience, slow-in, waiting for the exit prior to applying full throttle. Coupled with this car throttle control is key.
People new to the track should be hitting high 1:20's low 1:30's so you're doing very well. I'd say a good target to aim for is 1:26 or there a bout's.
Max your downforce, lower your tyre pressures to F 28 R 29. Also check my post a little earlier for a couple more settings.
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- 9 Jan 2007
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- 173
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- over here.
my first go.
playing with the tuning and having trouble, cant seem to get the sweetspot, either reluctance to turn in / understeer or snap oversteer.
i think it's my throttle control that's causing the problems but i'm having fun trying things out...
playing with the tuning and having trouble, cant seem to get the sweetspot, either reluctance to turn in / understeer or snap oversteer.
i think it's my throttle control that's causing the problems but i'm having fun trying things out...
My settings
Haven't played about with tyre pressures much so this may change. Set them lower if you think it will help you.
Main thing here is the toe & ride height values, as I've explained in previous posts
In an ideal scenario where the track is smooth & flat with identical corners, the fastest settings would be set to stiff. Of course, no track is like this as it would be dead boring to drive so a compromise is required. These settings control the weight shift/movement of the car in all directions.
Sway (Anti Roll) bars control the weight shift from inside to outside as you take a turn. Too stiff & the inside tyres lose contact with the road. Not necessarily a bad thing, e.g. riding curbs. As a general rule the Rear should be softer than the front
Damper settings control the weight shift from front to back under acceleration & back to front under braking.
Slow Bump/Slow Rebound are DRIVER INPUT sensitive. Meaning when YOU turn the wheel you effect the behaviour of the car.
Fast Bump/Fast Rebound are how the car reacts to track conditions regardless of driver input. e.g. riding curbs & bumps.
LSD settings control the power/torque given to the driven wheels.
The settings above are set up as 'fastest' but require a lot of throttle control & a twitchy car.
If you find these too twitchy change Acceleration Lock to Low & De-acceleration Lock to High. The opposite.
The reason I've pushed 6th gear all the way out is I only want to use 5 gears. Auto users may need to bring 6th back if the game auto changes to 6th.
Remember a twitchy (hard to control) car is generally the fastest but a pain to be consistently smooth & live with.
I suppose a way of tuning a car is set everything stiff, low ride height, fastest diff settings etc as this is supposed to be the fastest possible. Then tune softer settings until you've reached a drive you're comfortable with.
Haven't played about with tyre pressures much so this may change. Set them lower if you think it will help you.
Main thing here is the toe & ride height values, as I've explained in previous posts
In an ideal scenario where the track is smooth & flat with identical corners, the fastest settings would be set to stiff. Of course, no track is like this as it would be dead boring to drive so a compromise is required. These settings control the weight shift/movement of the car in all directions.
Sway (Anti Roll) bars control the weight shift from inside to outside as you take a turn. Too stiff & the inside tyres lose contact with the road. Not necessarily a bad thing, e.g. riding curbs. As a general rule the Rear should be softer than the front
Damper settings control the weight shift from front to back under acceleration & back to front under braking.
Slow Bump/Slow Rebound are DRIVER INPUT sensitive. Meaning when YOU turn the wheel you effect the behaviour of the car.
Fast Bump/Fast Rebound are how the car reacts to track conditions regardless of driver input. e.g. riding curbs & bumps.
LSD settings control the power/torque given to the driven wheels.
The settings above are set up as 'fastest' but require a lot of throttle control & a twitchy car.
If you find these too twitchy change Acceleration Lock to Low & De-acceleration Lock to High. The opposite.
The reason I've pushed 6th gear all the way out is I only want to use 5 gears. Auto users may need to bring 6th back if the game auto changes to 6th.
Remember a twitchy (hard to control) car is generally the fastest but a pain to be consistently smooth & live with.
I suppose a way of tuning a car is set everything stiff, low ride height, fastest diff settings etc as this is supposed to be the fastest possible. Then tune softer settings until you've reached a drive you're comfortable with.
Thank you for taking the time to instruct on those 9 bends nikaz, much appreciated & very helpful indeed. I'll try your settings too. I'll lower my tyre pressures as I had increased them.
I think I have 18" rims which I presume are better for grip than 15" but is there any tradeoff?
I think I have 18" rims which I presume are better for grip than 15" but is there any tradeoff?
Easier way of taking pics utajoker.
When you complete your final lap wait for the game to update your profile points etc (you can skip obviously). Select Leaderboard (right shouder button x360 pad) from the options available. This shows your best legal lap time for the session you just completed while playing a replay in the background. The Leaderboard overlay toggles between driver name & car about every 10 secs. So instead of 1 sec & one opportunity to take your pic, you've 10 secs & infinite opportunity. Try and get a clear shot of the car as best you can.
inam may be able too help further as he used to have this issue.
Saying all that don't worry about it too much. It's so much easier for us PC users to take snapshots
Now here is someone who thinks about the small things. Good stuff Merlin.
Wheel or tyre diameter has an effect yes. Now we can't change the absolute diameter of the tyre, that's fixed. However, we can change the rim diameter. Smaller diameter rims mean larger side walls on the tyre. Larger side walls have more give/cushioning, a slightly softer suspension if you will. Narrow walls have a lot less give in them producing a harder ride but more responsiveness.
So a bumpy/rough track could benefit from smaller rim sizes, adversely smooth/less undulating tracks benefit from larger rim sizes.
F1 cars have very little suspension movement (stiff) but have considerably large side wall tyres to absorb bumps.
Low profile tyres look better though don't they.
You may gain a tenth or two (it's hard to tell really) by considering the above.
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Go to http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=15811766&postcount=903
for updated Season 2 Week 8 Leaderboard
for updated Season 2 Week 8 Leaderboard
Last edited:
Not a lot to add on to what Nikaz has already told you. The only thing i would suggest that take 2 or 3 pictures and then upload the best here.
Full session In-Car view vid. 1:22.340
I've recorded the vid using In-Car view to give you an idea of the amount of steering input required to keep this car in check. You should still be able to see/get an idea of my braking points.
Video quality will improve once processing is complete.
I've recorded the vid using In-Car view to give you an idea of the amount of steering input required to keep this car in check. You should still be able to see/get an idea of my braking points.
Video quality will improve once processing is complete.
