New A1 has arrived

b0rn2sk8 said:
I wouldn't worry about a filament drier or a dehumidifier, its much less of an issue with PLA.

If it becomes an issue deal with it then, otherwise just crack on.

Bambu probably has the best prices if you are ordering 8 rolls of standard PLA (basic and matt). EDIT: If buying from a UK source (e.g. not Aliexpress)
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@b0rn2sk8 - going to give some PETG high speed a go. Should I consider a dryer now? Question really for all?

My 2 printers and AMS lites are in my converted attic. RH is on average 50%, goes up overnight int he cold but I have a room dehumidifier I run during the day and a heater as I work in here often
 
When you say converted attic, do you mean a proper loft conversion with a warm roof or a regular attic which is still vented to the outside?

Your results may vary with PETG, my view is try it and if it becomes a problem buy a drier. No point in buying one if it’s not an issue. That said the Bambu PETG specifically says to dry it before use. - proper politicians answer that was.
 
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Ordered the A1 on Monday. Bambu's site said shipment would be around 20th Jan but just got message from DPD saying they are delivering it today. Had to reschedule for tomorrow.

Should be a nice upgrade over my now ancient Athorbot Brother
 
Finished the AMS enclosure last night and just left it on my desk with the desiccant installed to test it. A slight drop in humidity in the chamber :D

Now installed it to the AMS this morning. Only trouble I had was the tightening bolt of the AMS mount getting in the way so I had to print a replacement that was more flush.

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How are you monitoring how much is left on the spools? I went for the enclosure with windows, so you can at least see inside
 
Did you print the clips in PETG? The model with the windows that I'm printing needed PETG for the plate with all the clips and I started that as my first PETG print last night, but it was my first print that didn't stick to the bed and curled upwards - first layer so no biggie. But after looking into it the bed temp was 65, I upp'd it to 80 and it was printed fine today - still going but the base layer stuck down fine.

The rest of the print is PLA.
 
Ace Modder said:
Did you print the clips in PETG? The model with the windows that I'm printing needed PETG for the plate with all the clips and I started that as my first PETG print last night, but it was my first print that didn't stick to the bed and curled upwards - first layer so no biggie. But after looking into it the bed temp was 65, I upp'd it to 80 and it was printed fine today - still going but the base layer stuck down fine.

The rest of the print is PLA.
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Yep all the clips were printed in PETG and the rest in PLA. Lookup the recommended nozzle and bed temps for your filament and you might need to adjust it in your slicer. I do that in Orca Slicer and haven't had any bed issues yet.
 
So instead of choosing what the AMS is set to I have a separate profile for the SUNLU PETG I'm using which has different recommended temps. Don't ask me about all the other settings in those profiles as I have no clue :D

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Well the 2nd print went perfect. Just gave the plate a good clean and increased bed temp from 65 > 80.

Did the trick, I used Bambulab PETG.

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Were the problematic parts at the back?

Consider printing with a brim(*) when you have parts which are relatively tall compared to their footprint on the bed. It aids adhesion.

*I think it’s called brim in the slicer.
 
it was the long thin bar here, it all curled up on the 2nd layer.

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This is what happened

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Ah yeh that’s straight forward bed adhesion rather than becoming detached within the print which the brim usually solves.

You don’t normally need to go so high on the bed temp unless where you are printing is particularly cold.

If you haven’t already, make sure the bed is super clean, wash it with hot soapy water and a clean plastic brush (not one used for the dishes that may have grease on it) and try not to touch it.

A little isopropyl alcohol can also be used on PEI beds.
 
b0rn2sk8 said:
Ah yeh that’s straight forward bed adhesion rather than becoming detached within the print which the brim usually solves.

You don’t normally need to go so high on the bed temp unless where you are printing is particularly cold.

If you haven’t already, make sure the bed is super clean, wash it with hot soapy water and a clean plastic brush (not one used for the dishes that may have grease on it) and try not to touch it.

A little isopropyl alcohol can also be used on PEI beds.
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Yeah, I did all that after the bed adhesion failed last night, it was around midnight last night and my printer is in my glass conservatory, it was around 12 degrees at that time in the room when I started the print - just before going to bed - but glad i waited to ensure the first few layers were ok - which they were not. Otherwise i would have woken up to a mess today haha.

After a fresh clean and raising the bed temp to 80 and running the print this morning it was all fine. The one thing that I am unsure is the PETG filament is translucent, but the prints are not very translucent, any suggestions to help that, I know it will never be fully transparent but (maybe wrongly) I hoped for better than this. For what I printed in PETG it didn't matter only used the translucent as that the only PETG reel I have so far, but more just curious about it.

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Painful experience yesterday. I was trying out a 0.2mm nozzle with 0.06mm layer height just to see how it would cope with a miniature figure which worked fine but the print left a thin layer pretty much welded to the build plate :eek:

Didn't want to scrape the plate with metal so tried freezing it first which didn't help at all so had to resort to spraying it with isopropyl and chipping away at it with a plastic scraper for about 30 minutes. Not going to try that again for a while :D
 
b0rn2sk8 said:
Glue stick solves that, it’s not for sticking things down, it’s to make sure you can get them off the plate at the end.
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Yeah I've read about that. Just wasn't expecting it as everything else has come off easily. Just the fact that I was printing at such a small layer height and they were for supports too combined to cause it.
 
BeelzebubUK said:
Painful experience yesterday. I was trying out a 0.2mm nozzle with 0.06mm layer height just to see how it would cope with a miniature figure which worked fine but the print left a thin layer pretty much welded to the build plate :eek:

Didn't want to scrape the plate with metal so tried freezing it first which didn't help at all so had to resort to spraying it with isopropyl and chipping away at it with a plastic scraper for about 30 minutes. Not going to try that again for a while :D
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You should set the first layer to be thicker. This is what I did to combat your problem.

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