** NEW ANTEC AIO COOLERS **
- Thread starter rjk
- Start date
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you can change the fans, I'm tempted to get the 1200 and use the SP120s I intended to use on a AIO when i get one
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I did think putting blue led fans as standard was an odd move. Although I haven't seen the actual fans, quite often it is possible to cut the wiring to the LEDs which would save buying different fans.
Soldato
Right, got all my new bits now (5820k, SOC Champion, H1200, Enthoo Primo case), so i'll be putting that together later or over the weekend 
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I'll have a go with the default fans and then see - I have a couple of SP120 high performance fans as intakes in my curent case that I could use but they're non-pwm models that are too loud at full power (have them on a manual fan controller at the mo). Also have a set of silent eagles about somewhere, but I don't know if they'd be any better than the others.
Actually, I need to decide how to connect up all the fans in general (still reading up on the fan controller in the Primo). Was thinking about connecting the PWM hub to the mobo CPU header and the H1200 fans to the CPU_OPT header, but I believe that the OPT header isn't actually PWM, if that will really make a difference.
.I'll have a go with the default fans and then see - I have a couple of SP120 high performance fans as intakes in my curent case that I could use but they're non-pwm models that are too loud at full power (have them on a manual fan controller at the mo). Also have a set of silent eagles about somewhere, but I don't know if they'd be any better than the others.
Actually, I need to decide how to connect up all the fans in general (still reading up on the fan controller in the Primo). Was thinking about connecting the PWM hub to the mobo CPU header and the H1200 fans to the CPU_OPT header, but I believe that the OPT header isn't actually PWM, if that will really make a difference.
Soldato
How did your install go Numpsy?
Caporegime
Shot of mine installed.
Been using it for a week or so now. Really enjoying the silence as my fans dont spin up as high now as they did when using the air cooler.
Been using it for a week or so now. Really enjoying the silence as my fans dont spin up as high now as they did when using the air cooler.
Just mounted a H600. I'm not one to cuss a lot but this cooler made me cuss for over an hour. No other cooler, liquid or air, has caused me the problems this one did.
The glaring issue is that the screws which go through the back (and backplate) are so ridiculously short, that you cannot mount the pump block onto them even loosely before placing the front screws and tightening. Because of this, you kind of need 3 hands, or TIM application will be a mess, and good luck even getting it fitted. It's like pin the tail on the donkey at times. You will do it, if you persevere, it's just not a pleasant experience.
If long enough back screws were provided (as other brands do), the pump block could be mounted loosely onto the back screws which holds it in place well enough for you to comfortably press and keep the back screws in position with one hand, and insert the front screws and tighten with your other hand. I cannot comprehend how whoever was responsible for the mounting system did not realize that. You don't want people hating the cooler before they've even fired the system up. I'll soften up a bit if it runs well when I fire it up. But I wanted to write this message while the iron is hot so you can see how it made me feel. Unadulterated feedback.
Serious - change those back screws fast, Antec.
Another thing I noted was that the H600 will unfortunately not be compatible on the rear of many cases that say they can take a 120mm rad on the rear. This is because the ends of the radiator are not rounded off on the edges like other coolers, but square. And the rivets in the upper rear corner of many cases will block the cooler from aligning with the screw-holes. This was the case with the H600 and the Corsair Carbide Spec 01. Good thing it fitted on the top. If you are building in cases that have a rear mount for a 140mm, you should be fine. And obviously there will also be some cases out there that don't have that pesky rivet (or made sure to trim it as much as possible on the inside). Otherwise be prepared to remove the rivet if you want the cooler on the rear.
And finally, the spring mechanism on the long front screws... they never feel taught at any moment. They leave you wondering if it's taught enough, or not. Just no way to tell. You keep turning the screws and eventually just get tired of it and stop. Even with a spring mechanism, the builder should be able to "feel" when it's the right time to stop.
On the bright side, the quality of the fins etc is super. I've seen other coolers with bent fins all over the place.
Will add a bit more to this post tomorrow when I get it running.
EDIT:
Liking this cooler a lot more now. It just looks good, sounds good and works good.
@ stock clocks Vcore 1.23-1.24, stock fan, Arctic MX4 paste - i7-6700K
Cinebench - 45C
Realbench 2.43 - 49C
So this thing is very impressive cooling-wise. Temperature-wise has substantially more overclocking headroom than I expected. The pump running at over 3,000 RPM must help, I imagine (and it's not noisy). The stock fan has a noise to it, but not unpleasant and nowhere near the jet-engine noise of some other AIO stock fans on load. Great value for money. All in all, this makes up for the shoddy mounting system, which I hope they can improve upon, as I would want to use this cooler in future builds.
The glaring issue is that the screws which go through the back (and backplate) are so ridiculously short, that you cannot mount the pump block onto them even loosely before placing the front screws and tightening. Because of this, you kind of need 3 hands, or TIM application will be a mess, and good luck even getting it fitted. It's like pin the tail on the donkey at times. You will do it, if you persevere, it's just not a pleasant experience.
If long enough back screws were provided (as other brands do), the pump block could be mounted loosely onto the back screws which holds it in place well enough for you to comfortably press and keep the back screws in position with one hand, and insert the front screws and tighten with your other hand. I cannot comprehend how whoever was responsible for the mounting system did not realize that. You don't want people hating the cooler before they've even fired the system up. I'll soften up a bit if it runs well when I fire it up. But I wanted to write this message while the iron is hot so you can see how it made me feel. Unadulterated feedback.
Serious - change those back screws fast, Antec.
Another thing I noted was that the H600 will unfortunately not be compatible on the rear of many cases that say they can take a 120mm rad on the rear. This is because the ends of the radiator are not rounded off on the edges like other coolers, but square. And the rivets in the upper rear corner of many cases will block the cooler from aligning with the screw-holes. This was the case with the H600 and the Corsair Carbide Spec 01. Good thing it fitted on the top. If you are building in cases that have a rear mount for a 140mm, you should be fine. And obviously there will also be some cases out there that don't have that pesky rivet (or made sure to trim it as much as possible on the inside). Otherwise be prepared to remove the rivet if you want the cooler on the rear.
And finally, the spring mechanism on the long front screws... they never feel taught at any moment. They leave you wondering if it's taught enough, or not. Just no way to tell. You keep turning the screws and eventually just get tired of it and stop. Even with a spring mechanism, the builder should be able to "feel" when it's the right time to stop.
On the bright side, the quality of the fins etc is super. I've seen other coolers with bent fins all over the place.
Will add a bit more to this post tomorrow when I get it running.
EDIT:
Liking this cooler a lot more now. It just looks good, sounds good and works good.
@ stock clocks Vcore 1.23-1.24, stock fan, Arctic MX4 paste - i7-6700K
Cinebench - 45C
Realbench 2.43 - 49C
So this thing is very impressive cooling-wise. Temperature-wise has substantially more overclocking headroom than I expected. The pump running at over 3,000 RPM must help, I imagine (and it's not noisy). The stock fan has a noise to it, but not unpleasant and nowhere near the jet-engine noise of some other AIO stock fans on load. Great value for money. All in all, this makes up for the shoddy mounting system, which I hope they can improve upon, as I would want to use this cooler in future builds.
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Well pleased with my 1200 - been running for about a month now so all bedded in, 4.5 ghz clock speed on an i7-4770k and with the Asus auto fan profiles, temperature never hits over 40c and noise is pretty good.
Time to put the Raijintek well behind me
Time to put the Raijintek well behind me
Soldato
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Well pleased with my 1200 - been running for about a month now so all bedded in, 4.5 ghz clock speed on an i7-4770k and with the Asus auto fan profiles, temperature never hits over 40c and noise is pretty good.
Time to put the Raijintek well behind me
when you say never hits over 40c do you mean at idle or under load.....if under load can you let me know what thermal compound you use....thanks.
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Seriously tempted to swap out my trusty 212 for a 1200 pro
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temped to replace my air cooler with the 1200 pro as well.
does anyone know if I mount the rad to the front of my case should the tubing be coming from the bottom of the rad or the top?
haven't got 1 yet just a general question in case it doesn't say in the manual
The general advice has always been tubing at bottom but no problem if it has to be at the top. The pump runs fast with this one, so should be even less of a problem. Lots of people have it that way.
Am using Thermal Grizzly. Admittedly I have the fan tuning profile set quite aggressively at the 40c point, but still...
ty, just one less question to worry about when i do get one lol.
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With my 600's I found that they were noisier with the tubes at the top or side. Bottom is quieter.