NR200 Owner's Thread

If this case is a huge success, CM should consider releasing an AIO (240mm?) with short tubes. Tube length a big part of the problem in most of these cases; it's designed to accommodate big ATX cases.
 
Managed to get a second 120mm fan up top by ditching the PSU cage and bodging a custom mount. The GPU is now running much quieter, and the case no longer feels hot to the touch, so I guess there was a bit of an air recirculation problem before.

Will take a look at modding the cage and making new mounting holes for it at some point, as it is useful.
 
Anyone know if slim fans can be mounted as exhaust on the top panel? I know the QD fan cages are designed with normal 120mm fans in mind, only because I have a SFX-L PSU and have read the issues with the top front fan clearance.

There was a post on Reddit by someone who has done this. But the standard pegs don't work for slim fans. And the screws weren't gripping the grommets tightly enough to ensure the fans wouldn't simply fall down. Their solution was to remove the top panel mesh, and seat the fans between the plastic frame and the mesh, screwing them in to the rubber grommets.

Have a search on r/SFFPC.
 
pc_part_picker have a new NR200 build made by Yoshikan5037
He uses the Noctua NH-C14S cooler.

FYI, that site falls foul of the swear filter because it's a search engine for competitor's prices. Best not to mention it here; OCUK don't really appreciate it.
 
So what am I missing? I tried routing the motherboard cable from the psu but its simply way too long, not it's all bunched up just above/slightly touching the GPU backplate, which is making meworry a bit since that back plate gets burning hot.
How do you all do it so cleanly? The 3.5" is going as soon as amazon delivers my nvme drive, should I try then to place the excess cable where the hdd is resting?
Specs:
  • Ryzen 3600
  • Noctua NH-U12s
  • Shappire Nitro+ 5700xt
  • Corsair sf 750
  • 16gb ram
  • 2x arctic p12 bottom fans as intake
  • 2x arctic p12 top as exhaust
  • 1x arctic p12 on cpu cooler as intake
200p.png

Route as much as possible round the back. Use screws to secure the rear panel. For any excess cable, try and stash it below the PSU and behind the GPU. There should be a decent amount of space there, out of sight.

It's always going to be harder with black cables and a white case though.
 
I think it's about this one:
https://imgur.com/a/q8JV2Vy

Not sure I would bend that tube like that btw

That looks dicey :eek:

If you already own a Freezer II, I guess it's worth a go. It'll probably be fine. But buying one specifically for this case just seems daft. An extra £20-£30 will buy a similarly performing AIO that actually fits. Or you can spend the same money and see CPU temps rise by a few degrees. To me, either of those options seems preferable to putting the fittings under strain.
 
You sure the C14S and U9S perform the same?

C14S has more heat pipes (7 vs 5), a larger frontal area (196cm² vs 87.4cm²) and much larger fans (140mm vs 92mm) pushing more air (max 140.2m³/h vs 78.9m³/h). The only area where the U9S is better is in thickness (48mm vs 70mm). I'd expect the C14S to be the better of the two, especially in noise normalised testing (where 140mm fans are really going to shine).

It's funny. I know the general consensus from the Ncase is that the C14S is better, but brings compatibility issues. But I'm struggling to find much good data putting the two coolers head-to-head. Best I could find was this.
 
@McPhee
@Slogan
@Bindlestiff

Answer from noctua regarding NH-U9S Vs NH-C14S

Greetings from Noctua!
Thank you very much for contacting us.

While the NH-C14S does have more heat pipes and 140mm fans, C-Type coolers due to their design aren't as efficient as U- or D-Type coolers when it comes to the heat transfer efficiency of heat pipes. The heat pipes of the NH-C14S have a few sharp bends as well as long heat pipes, this reduces the thermal transfer between the cold plate which contacts the CPU and the heat-dissipating cooling fins.

For this very reason, we'd recommend going for the NH-U9S instead as it's (depending on the CPU) slightly better than the NH-C14S in performance.

The NH-U9S is around the corner and will hit the market in 1-2 months.

Interesting.

Would still like to see a head-to-head of these coolers in this type of case. I think the results could be interesting. With the window panel, U9S is going to walk it. But with the vented panel? C14S will have an intake fan blowing directly on to it, while the U9S will be dealing with GPU exhaust air.

Not a test I'll be doing though as I've got no intention of using the vented panel :p
 
Any thoughts on this for Maxed out Fan setup with vented side panel?

Bottom: 2x Arctic P12 INTAKE
Top: 2x Arctic P12 EXTRACT
Rear: 1x Arctic F9 EXTRACT
Side: 2x Arctic P12 on 240mm AIO INTAKE (Fans in push config)

Maybe overkill, but I have the fans AND ambient in the room gets up to 33 degrees.

The 92mm probably won't do much; I wedged a 120mm in there and it barely moved the needle. The rear panel is quite blocked with that vertical GPU mount. Wil be interesting to see if your experience is the same.
 
Indeed there is a fair amount of blockage there. I figured that having the the AIO fans in push, anything I can do to extract the hot air and keep it moving through the case would be a good thing.

When you say it barely moved the needle, is that CPU, GPU and VRM?

I didn't do any proper benchmarking, but I did take a quick look at temps with and without the fan. It wasn't having any dramatic effect; CPU was in the high 60's and case temp around 50 at load either way. If I did a proper test maybe I'd have found a few degrees of difference.

I'm not that fussed when it comes to temps. I'll run HWMonitor in the background, play some games, take a look at max values. If I'm happy with those and the system was sufficiently quiet, then job done.
 
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This case I'm still mainly tempted for vented side panel with AIO. That will allow great cooling, but I will be missing out of TG panel with RGB.
The Lian-Li TU150 I'd most likely also go for the vented panel version and not the TG panel version. That will be good with air cooling and GPU heat can come out at the side.
Then the Lian-Li O11D "mini" will be best for cooling and RGB, but as we said, it will be bigger by quite a bit probably.

Choices! At least the hardware that will go in it isn't here yet, so no need to rush it, as much as I want to buy it already ;)

I may get the Lian-Li O11D mini to put my current hardware in (as it will fit ATX) and get the Cooler Master N200(P) for the new build.

So you're weighing up this case with the vented panel vs TU150 with the vented panel vs an 011 Mini?

NR200 is ~75% of the size of the TU150, has more cooling options, more fan mounts, and way more ventilation. Okay, it lacks support for big air coolers like the D15 and DRP4. But it still supports some pretty meaty air cooling options; U12A, Fuma 2, Mugen 5, etc. With the added ventilation and extra fan mounts, these coolers in this case might even outperform their larger counterparts in the TU150.

As for the O11 Mini, it's in a completely different size class. It's roughly the same size (litres) as a Define C, but with a larger footprint due to the format.
 
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Any custom loops in these yet?

Seems to be a few popping up on r/SFFPC. Quite a few WIP pics too.

Looking forward to seeing what some people manage to cram in there. Hard-line loop with top and bottom radiators (custom bracket for the top) and TG side? Seems inevitable, eventually.
 
So a few things:

1. AIO. As you've already identified, the Freezer II is a tight fit. It seems to work, but a cooler with swivel fittings is going to be easier to install. Also worth bearing in mind that when you look at reviews, they tend to be using hot, high-end chips. With a mid-range CPU like the 3700X, the difference between two coolers is going to be smaller than with a 3900X or 10900K. So I guess you've got to consider whether you think the Freezer is worth the potential extra hassle.

2. The drives. Your board has 2x M.2 slots and the price difference between SATA 2.5", SATA M.2, and NVME is pretty small now. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a SATA 2.5" drive if starting from scratch now; it just adds unnecessary cable clutter.

3. A new GPU generation is potentially weeks away. Do you need this PC now? The bang-for-buck equation could be about to shift quite dramatically.

Seems good to go though really. Enjoy building your first PC!
 
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This is news to me, but I guess logical. Mounting the radiator of an AIO at the bottom of this case (or any other case) is a bad idea, at least according to Gamers Nexus, who specifically reference the NR200;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk

May explain why the AIO mounted in my Dan A4 cools so poorly, and one core runs 15c hotter than the others, even at idle.

Just finished watching that. Long video, so brief summary:

The problem stems from the pump/block being the highest point in the loop. Any air in the loop rises and congregates in the pump/block. This would be a problem whether using a regular AIO, modular AIO, or a full custom loop; air will always rise to the highest point, which you don't want to be your pump or block(s).

If you're using a regular AIO and mounting the radiator at the bottom (per NR200P with glass side), the pump/block will be the highest point in the loop. Air will congregate in the pump/block, which could have anything from a marginal performance effect (if there's little air in the loop) to a significant one (where there's a lot of air in the loop and the pump is running dry). This can also put a lot of strain on the pump, as many designs aren't intended to run dry (Asetek being a named exception). Even where the AIO has little air, it will run louder. And over time, fluid will evaporate from the loop, causing the above problems to get progressively worse.

One possible solution would be to use a modular AIO and add a 92mm rad on the rear panel. As long as the tubes exit from the bottom of the radiator, the top of that rad will be the top of the loop.

Not hugely relevant to NR200, but if you're mounting a regular AIO radiator at the front of the case, make sure the tubes exit from the bottom. This is less a performance issue, and more a noise one. Also make sure the other end of the radiator is the highest point in the loop (this is where you want air to gather).
 
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Was just about to post that video in here. There's no way of getting a radiator at the top of this case is there?

Not with the stock config. It might be possible with some extensive modding.

TBH I think there's a bit of shock factor going on with this video. If things were as bad as their demo unit suggests, CPU temperatures would be awful and the chip would be throttling like crazy. Yet this isn't replicated in benchmarks. I suspect the truth of it is their demo loop had a lot more air in it than in a sealed AIO.

One simple resolution would be to use an AIO model where the pump is on the radiator. That way the pump will be fine and at worst you will see a ver, very slow rise in temperatures over years, as the coolant evaporates.
 
The video is tricky though, as that makes using an AIO in the NR200 bad no matter how you position it. Even on the side mount it wouldn't be great, though better than having radiator at the bottom.

Side mount should be fine. The edge of the radiator will be higher than the pump/block. Might just have a slightly reduced cooling capacity from the rad, as the top tube inside the radiator will be less full than in other orientations.
 
My Ncase has gone. All-in on NR200 now.

Here are some comparison pics of the two cases:

http://imgur.com/a/pimSY4i

TBH, M1 is a tough sell now with the NR200 out. Sure, it's smaller and lighter. But it's over twice the price. And the NR200 is the better case. Cooler Master basically up-sized an M1 and then improved it.
 
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