O11 Dynamic XL On Steroids

OC2000 · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:05

Cenedd said:
I'll leave this here...and try not to look smug Although, to be fair, he does have a distro in there.

You might even be able to swap out the pass-throughs that are in that plate (unless they're a smaller bore to fit the plate) so they look the same as the one in the case.

Unfortunately the pass-throughs are much smaller than the Bitspower one im using below.

Just ordered this as its a 7mm offset rather than the 5mm Bitspower offset I tested with just now. It should be enough to line it up better. I needed to order another one anyway due to that offset already being allocated for the GPU block to distroplate.

EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Torque Rotary 7mm Offset Fitting - Black

Order EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Torque Rotary 7mm Offset Fitting - Black now online and benefit from fast delivery.

www.overclockers.co.uk

Jay85 · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:08

OC2000 said:
Received the PCIE slot pass through today and disappointingly worked out the solution in 2 minutes. Was hoping for a bit of a challenge

The first method I tried was to use a micro 90 degree to 90 degree. Should have used a flash on the phone for a clearer picture.

The solution I went with was using an offset adapter which lines up well enough. You would have to have an extremely keen eye or measurement tools to work out its not a perfect line up.

Still waiting for the motherboard. In the meantime Decided to change the case fans from the Corsair QL120s to the Lian Li Uni Fan Infinity SL120s. My plan is to control the RGB through the L-Connect 3 software and the fan speed via the Corsair commander pro using the optional fan pass through on the L-Connect controller. Hoping this works as there is no configuration explaining this on the internet. Ill have to do a bit of out of case testing to get the right combo working I think.

Comes in damn handy right lol! Much cleaner too, i would be tempted to spray paint it matte black to suit and blend it in with the rest of your case setup.

OC2000 · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:10

Jay85 said:
Comes in damn handy right lol! Much cleaner too, i would be tempted to spray paint it matte black to suit and blend it in with the rest of your case setup.

I was thinking the same thing! Will have to try find a suitable spray paint.

Jay85 · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:12

OC2000 said:
I was thinking the same thing! Will have to try find a suitable spray paint.

Halfords black primer

incase you was wondering.

OC2000 · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:15

Jay85 said:
Halfords black primer incase you was wondering.

cheers mate. Ill do the EK GPU I/O bracket too I think.

Cenedd · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:28

Barrow do a 6mm offset....just in case the sweet spot lies right between the two you have.
The other thing you could do is drill a hole in one of the blank PCI plates for the case - assuming they're not too flimsy. That way you'd only have the one hole, it'd be where you need it to be - at least left to right - and it'd already be the right colour. Depends if you have a step drill of the right size for the pass-throughs though.
Someone recommended Wilko's satin black spray paint as one of the best matches. It's worked quite well for me on various bits (a rad for example) and it doesn't clog after the first time you've used it. Primer would definitely be good under it if the surface is as shiny as it looks.

OC2000 · 17 Nov 2022 at 12:37

Cenedd said:
Barrow do a 6mm offset....just in case the sweet spot lies right between the two you have.
The other thing you could do is drill a hole in one of the blank PCI plates for the case - assuming they're not too flimsy. That way you'd only have the one hole, it'd be where you need it to be - at least left to right - and it'd already be the right colour. Depends if you have a step drill of the right size for the pass-throughs though.
Someone recommended Wilko's satin black spray paint as one of the best matches. It's worked quite well for me on various bits (a rad for example) and it doesn't clog after the first time you've used it. Primer would definitely be good under it if the surface is as shiny as it looks.

I think its at least 2mm off so Im hoping this will do the trick.
Im not too fussed about matching pass throughs as the back of the case can't be seen and only one of the pass throughs will be visible when looking through the front panel.
Unfortunately I don't have access to Halfords and they won't deliver to where I am, so will look into the Walk Black Satin. Will I need a Primer too? I haven't ventured into the painting side of things.

My radiators could do with a freshening up too so will be an interesting project while I wait endlessly for this Apex to arrive.

Cenedd · 17 Nov 2022 at 13:47

It's one of those that you should use primer on a bare metal surface. Often it comes in few colours, just pick the closest so it covers more easily. It sticks better to the surface and you can then spray the correct colour over it. You can usually get away without it if you have to - especially on parts that aren't handled - but it may not stick so well so might chip/scratch/flake more easily. For the rad, I'd just blow over the top of it if we're talking the same colour. You don't want it too thick (like umpteen layers of old, primer, new) on rad fins as it would reduce the efficiency a little.....but who's going to strip it off to bare and then spray from scratch?!

OC2000 · 22 Nov 2022 at 17:24

Got some spray painting going and ended up with this. Not the best, but will do for a first try. Covered the tops as I didn't want any paint internally.

Currently re-working the MO-RA as the NZXT AER fans do not play well in PWM with the Active Splitty9. So changing them out with the spare Corsair QL120's I have. Ill go for a push pull this time with 18 of them.
ill post picks of the progress.

Cenedd · 22 Nov 2022 at 17:35

18 fans? I'm not sure you're really getting into the overkill spirit!

OC2000 · 22 Nov 2022 at 17:39

Cenedd said:
18 fans? I'm not sure you're really getting into the overkill spirit!

The QL120s aren't the best radiator fans, plus I have them so may swell use them. Main reason I didn't go for a 420 as I have so many 120mm fans lying around in the loft collecting dust.

OC2000 · 22 Nov 2022 at 17:40

Ordering 10m of tubing too to take advantage of the outside ambient temp for benches :cry:

Cenedd · 22 Nov 2022 at 17:49

Hmmm, according to the spec, they ought to be better; slightly higher static pressure. Oooh, RGB too....WELCOME to the Unicorn vomit club!

10m of tubing eh? Might have a fair amount of flow resistance. What YOU want is one of THESE:

Eight Alphacool Cape Cora passive rads, clipped together, screwed to a case panel, fittings with 10/8 tubing interconnects but run in parallel for flow and presented with a G1/4 inlet and outlet. Now spare and yours for a very reasonable amount....but with probably a very unreasonable amount of shipping as it's heavy

Seriously though, if you're interested drop me a PM and we can work out shipping.

OC2000 · 22 Nov 2022 at 18:14

Thanks for the offer mate. I think im on an overkill of cooling now as it is :cry:

.

I won't be turning any of the RGB on in the MO-RA. Part of the challenge with those fans is hiding the RGB cables as they'll be 36 of them to manage!
Will see about the 10m tubing. I may only need 3m on each side, plus I have a fair few spare pumps to use if necessary. It will all be temporary anyway as day to day use Ill be using those sleeved one which run fine.

OC2000 · 23 Nov 2022 at 16:16

A slight Change yet again. Swapping the Corsair QL120s for 18 Phantek T30s. Will sell off those QL120s.

Jay85 · 24 Nov 2022 at 10:19

OC2000 said:
Got some spray painting going and ended up with this. Not the best, but will do for a first try. Covered the tops as I didn't want any paint internally.

Currently re-working the MO-RA as the NZXT AER fans do not play well in PWM with the Active Splitty9. So changing them out with the spare Corsair QL120's I have. Ill go for a push pull this time with 18 of them.
ill post picks of the progress.

Looks good tbf! It's in a place you won't really see anyway so not a massive deal.

OC2000 · 25 Nov 2022 at 22:25

Back to the drawing board with the Mo-Ra3. The good News is most of the parts have arrived to update it and finally the Z790 Apex has been dispatched!.

Back to square one!

Just testing the fans today.

quick comparison between Corsair QL120 and Phantek T30

9 working fine with PWM on an active spltty9. I will use 3 of there splitty9 headers per 9 fans and 2 active splitty9s over 18 fans in total.

I did get it working daisy chaining 9 fans at 3000 rpm onto one header, but felt unsure about the safety of it so split it to 3 per header.
Overall Ill have 9 fans per splitter connected to 1 molex which can handle 150+ watts so should be fine.

OC2000 · 25 Nov 2022 at 22:29

one side done so far. will finish the other half tomorrow.

Cenedd · 26 Nov 2022 at 00:15

From a purely logical point of view, when would it make sense to be controlling say three of the fans out of 18? Surely the logical grouping is either 'all 18’ or two banks or 9?
Can't be certain from the pic but I think only the Aquaero 6 came with a blue LEDs option, and that can take all 18 daisy-chained off one header by itself, let alone with Splittys. Were it me, I'd be more relaxed about whether it can handle it (it can) and decide based on the logical control groups you want to achieve and what makes wiring the simplest/neatest.
However - unlike how I did it - I'd suggest that you try to keep a standard tail on each fan. Partly to avoid the work in the first place but mainly because if you get a fan failure (and you're statistically more likely given your 18 to my 4!), you want to ve able to just drop in a replacement rather than dig out a soldering iron or pin crimper!

OC2000 · 26 Nov 2022 at 07:39

Cenedd said:
From a purely logical point of view, when would it make sense to be controlling say three of the fans out of 18? Surely the logical grouping is either 'all 18’ or two banks or 9?
Can't be certain from the pic but I think only the Aquaero 6 came with a blue LEDs option, and that can take all 18 daisy-chained off one header by itself, let alone with Splittys. Were it me, I'd be more relaxed about whether it can handle it (it can) and decide based on the logical control groups you want to achieve and what makes wiring the simplest/neatest.
However - unlike how I did it - I'd suggest that you try to keep a standard tail on each fan. Partly to avoid the work in the first place but mainly because if you get a fan failure (and you're statistically more likely given your 18 to my 4!), you want to ve able to just drop in a replacement rather than dig out a soldering iron or pin crimper!

The grouping is only for power. They're grouped into 3, daisy chained as this is the fans design. By default they're meant to be daisy chained. Im not modding anything here :cry:

Im using 2 splitty9s as 1 Sata power connector is capable of around 55 watts and 18 of these will draw over 70 (on startup). The Aquaero is only being used for testing purposes. I won't be using it in my main build and its purely controlling the PWM. All 18 will be controlled by 1 PWM connector since no power is being used here and all fans will operate at the same speed.