O11 Dynamic XL On Steroids

You're welcome. The Farbwerk (RGB) and the Farbwerk 360 (ARGB) are both good. The only thing to be aware of with the 360 is that they use non-standard connectors. They do have a standard 3-pin header but the Molex Pico blade connectors are actually better - smaller, they don't come apart and designed to daisy-chain. There's a couple of them on the Octo too I believe.
Another rabbit hole you could go down is Aquabus. The Farbwerk can link with the Aquaero via Aquabus but the 360 can't... despite having a header labelled as Aquabus.
 
Cenedd said:
You're welcome. The Farbwerk (RGB) and the Farbwerk 360 (ARGB) are both good. The only thing to be aware of with the 360 is that they use non-standard connectors. They do have a standard 3-pin header but the Molex Pico blade connectors are actually better - smaller, they don't come apart and designed to daisy-chain. There's a couple of them on the Octo too I believe.
Another rabbit hole you could go down is Aquabus. The Farbwerk can link with the Aquaero via Aquabus but the 360 can't... despite having a header labelled as Aquabus.
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Ah, I bought the normal Farbwerk. The picture showed 3 pin standard connections on it.

I bought it cheap off eBay.

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Does it come with the white adapters and will this be compatible with ARGB?
 
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Nope, sorry. That's the Farbwerk which will do 4-pin RGB control very nicely...but not ARGB. The Farbwerk 360 is what you need for that. You can see it in this post (click the pic for larger version). New it comes with a pair of 30cm ARGB magnetic/adhesive strips and two wires to plug them in.
 
Cenedd said:
Nope, sorry. That's the Farbwerk which will do 4-pin RGB control very nicely...but not ARGB. The Farbwerk 360 is what you need for that. You can see it in this post (click the pic for larger version). New it comes with a pair of 30cm ARGB magnetic/adhesive strips and two wires to plug them in.
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Ah crap. Luckily it wasn't expensive. So what do I need to get then in addition to the 360 to make it the standard 3 pin compatible?
 
If you look at the pic in the post I linked to you can see the headers. It has standard 3-pin headers you can just plug into. If you want to use their strips and then daisy-chain on to something 3-pin, you'd need a convertor. There are four channels (plus the two on your Octo) so you may not need to mix standards.
If you're running fans you may need to split (Y splitter) rather than daisy chain. The difference is important for some RGB patterns and not for others. If you have two 15 LED strips daisy chained, the first strip is LEDs 1-15 and the second is 16-30. You can apply say a rainbow across all 30 and it will work as one long unit. If they were split (like fans usually do) then you'd have two strips each with LEDs 1-15 and they'd be identical. Places end to end, they wouldn't look like ine strip but two copies. That works fine for fans but it means you can have a rainbow on all fans but you can't have a rainbow spanning fans (not without some jiggery-pokery and wasting channels). You also couldn't, for example, have one fan red, one green and one blue with them on the same channel...but you could put each on a different channel to do that. May not be relevant but could be an important distinction depending what you're trying to do.
 
Cenedd said:
If you look at the pic in the post I linked to you can see the headers. It has standard 3-pin headers you can just plug into. If you want to use their strips and then daisy-chain on to something 3-pin, you'd need a convertor. There are four channels (plus the two on your Octo) so you may not need to mix standards.
If you're running fans you may need to split (Y splitter) rather than daisy chain. The difference is important for some RGB patterns and not for others. If you have two 15 LED strips daisy chained, the first strip is LEDs 1-15 and the second is 16-30. You can apply say a rainbow across all 30 and it will work as one long unit. If they were split (like fans usually do) then you'd have two strips each with LEDs 1-15 and they'd be identical. Places end to end, they wouldn't look like ine strip but two copies. That works fine for fans but it means you can have a rainbow on all fans but you can't have a rainbow spanning fans (not without some jiggery-pokery and wasting channels). You also couldn't, for example, have one fan red, one green and one blue with them on the same channel...but you could put each on a different channel to do that. May not be relevant but could be an important distinction depending what you're trying to do.
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to be honest I wouldn't have bothered as the only RGB things I need to plug in are the EK Distro plate, the Lian Li case and the EK GPU block which is 3 headers for the APEX, however the ABP head came with 2x RGB meaning I need 4 ARGP headers so thought instead of using the splitter id get a Farbwek thinking it would be an easy fix lol
 
My TG 7200 ram can't get stable at 8400mhz CL36 so getting rid of it. Ordered G Skill 8000 instead if that can't do 8400, my CPU is the limiting factor so will get a 13900KS as 3 chips ive tried so far have been crap
 
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Well that's why then. Intel have been binning all the good ones to release as the KS and milk a bit more money out of you.
I've got my RAM running nice and stable at 3200MHz...what do I win?! :D
 
OC2000 said:
My TG 7200 ram can't get stable at 8400mhz CL36 so getting rid of it. Ordered G Skill 8000 instead if that can't do 8400, my CPU is the limiting factor so will get a 13900KS as 3 chips ive tried so far have been crap
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What were the sp numbers on your 13900k?
 
OC2000 said:
111/81 (101) MC 62
113/80 (102) MC 72 - kept
106/85 (98) Didn't check.

P Core isn't bad, but the e core is a let down
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Very similar to the two I’ve had. I think the 13900ks is the only way to get a good bin. Have you tried undervolting or overclocking yet? I’d be interested in your results.
 
Harshell123 said:
Very similar to the two I’ve had. I think the 13900ks is the only way to get a good bin. Have you tried undervolting or overclocking yet? I’d be interested in your results.
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Had a quick play, but it's a whole new world for me and will require a lot of learning. Working on Ram at the moment. I'll be posting results here, but will definitely be getting a KS, so this one will be a learning cpu.
 
OC2000 said:
Had a quick play, but it's a whole new world for me and will require a lot of learning. Working on Ram at the moment. I'll be posting results here, but will definitely be getting a KS, so this one will be a learning cpu.
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Yes I was thinking of doing the same but I’m happy with 5.5ghz all core P Cores and 4.3ghz e cores, 5.0 cache. It’s just touching 90 while stress testing and around 60 in gaming etc.

Look forward to seeing the end product. You certainly don’t mess around :D
 
G.Skill DDR5 8000 installed, but bottlenecked by the CPU's IMC. Couldn't really get any better results than the Team Group 7200. Such to say the TG 7200 is a solid set of ram sticks. Both booted to 8600 mhz but were stable enough only to do an AIDA run. I'll wait until the 13900KS comes out with stronger IMCs which will hopefully makes these Skill 8000s shine. For now though I have finally stabilised at 24/7 tight 8200 CL34. Only the CPU left to work on now before I start building the final system.

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I think you need to halve those speeds....you know, for the morale of fellow forum readers :D
How are you finding the RGB on the RAM? Odd question I know but when I was putting together my son's PC that unknown - apart from the cost (on a PC I wouldn't be using!) - kept me from buying sticks with integrated RGB. I ended up installing existing RAM (best price :D ) with some after-market RGB heatspreaders. Those had RGB leads hanging out of them and once swapped out for 4mm ARGB strips it meant I could plug them into the Farbwerk 360 and control them from something I knew. I didn't want to be stuck running some dodgy bit of RGB control software all the time just to run the lighting on the RAM. Was I overthinking it (common problem :D ) or was that fair?
 
I didn't really see the RGB so can't comment there. I've taken the heatsinks off and incased them under a water block now which covers the RGB totally. The RGB will consist of the fans, Distroplate, GPU and motherboard. The CPU and Ram won't have any RGB.
 
This is an incredible build. I'm super-jealous!

I want to do a build with an open case, like the X-Proto, then have a large external rad like you're doing. I see your Mo-Ra3 has feet on it - could you mod it to hang on the underside of a desk?
 
GilesGuthrie said:
This is an incredible build. I'm super-jealous!

I want to do a build with an open case, like the X-Proto, then have a large external rad like you're doing. I see your Mo-Ra3 has feet on it - could you mod it to hang on the underside of a desk?
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You can buy wall mounts for it which will work
 
The project looks epic so far! I've often thought about down sizing case and then getting an external rad like the Mo-Ra3. A quick question, how do you power the res, pump, and fans, An external PSU?
 
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