OcUK Rolling Road Day 22 @ Viezu & Caffeine and Machine (Warwickshire) - Saturday 1st December 2018

Different dyno read different, they're a tuning tool ultimately.

Stick to one, and use it to compare changes in power for mods.

I have my speculations on the wheel to flywheel conversions based on a combination of educated guess and maths but I'm keeping quiet on that one
 
Thanks to all for an outstanding day.

Apologies I was slightly late but it was good to see such a great turn out with some amazing cars.
 
@jamesrushton has kindly sent over the wheel figure graphs and said they're working on having the crank/flywheel graphs with me later. So I won't share until I've got everything, but just keeping y'all up to date :)
 
ScoobyDoo69 said:
I concur, all US figures seem plucked out of the air :D
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They are, dynojet, mustang and the various other ones, some of the wheel figures are as high as our crank figures, lol.

Also not all Mustang dyno under-read, I think the one at Viezu will a little as its a double contact patch dyno I think, which will cause lower reading, just like maha MSR3000 from Powerstation and Tegiwa.

The absolute best dyno is MSR500, single contact patch, proper coast down calculation that can account for tyre pressures, gear ratio's, I believe maha is the only one in the world which can do this, all the others have an element of guess work, but on the flip side all the maha's seem to read low on wheel figures, even MSR500 though it is the closest.

Litchfield has the absolute best dyno setup, latest maha but their dyno room creates a vacuum to ensure not only does the car get cold air to the engine, but the whole underside of the car is cooled as well to keep catalyst cool etc. and prevent cat protection mode from kicking in which most modern cars now do so when cats get hot, basically they dump fuel to cool the cats and thus reduce power.
 
Gibbo said:
Litchfield has the absolute best dyno setup, latest maha but their dyno room creates a vacuum to ensure not only does the car get cold air to the engine, but the whole underside of the car is cooled as well to keep catalyst cool etc. and prevent cat protection mode from kicking in which most modern cars now do so when cats get hot, basically they dump fuel to cool the cats and thus reduce power.
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When they get their engine dyno finished, will really get to see how accurate it is.
 
I've developed a check engine light since, looks electrical in nature (Error codes P0047 and C703) causing cylinder misfires.

At least I got these good runs in first :p
 
I did a reset (Battery disconnected for a period so the engine light went out on next turn on) and it came back so I think there is an issue, it does not make any odd noises or smoke from front or rear but it does cut power if you push to full throttle and judder. Going to get it checked out.
 
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