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*** Official 7950 Ice-Q Owners Club***

Afterburner and disabling ULPS seems to have done the trick
I didn't really want to disable it but it seems I have no choice lol.

Do you have to disable it to stop it doing this or does yours run ok?
Thanks for the help Matt, appreciate it.

According to my testing its a bug of gpu-z. Something about gpu-z sends the cards into 3d mode, probably conflicting with ULPS which turns the second card off. Shut down gpu-z and the problem goes away. At least it does for me. I know this as i can monitor gpu usage with afterburner. If you must keep gpu-z open then keep ULPS off. Might be worth reporting this as i described it in the link in my sig. ;)
 
I had to keep it disabled to stop the 99% usage when exiting Rome 2, however, it didn't do it for BF3. I've left it disabled as it disables monitoring of the second GPU and having to do a restart each time gets annoying.
 
Yeh it was doing as you said with GPU-Z. I had uninstalled afterburner so was using that to check with. When I quit the game in question, if I opened CCC first it said all was fine but then when I opened GPU-Z it started saying 99% load in both gpu-z AND ccc.

The game I've been running is sleeping dogs, just been trying to complete it so I can get on with the rest.

I'll test a few things.

Edit: Reported it, maybe they will fix it, maybe.
 
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Guess what. I have now got them working. Looks like it was the wifi card that came with the board.

I have to thank Wazza, in the Motherboad section.
 
Currently running this bios

925MHz/1250MHz Non Boost 1.175v(0.850mv idle voltage version):

Download Link
http://www.sendspace.com/file/g8e0fl

Is this still the recommended bios to use? Don't have any problems just wondering.

Flashed around 2 weeks ago when I first bought it, been very comfortably running 1150/1700 @ 1.25v since- haven't needed to touch the mem voltage seems to be fine running at 1.6v even at 1700.

Temps never really going over 75c after a few hours of Crysis 3.

An amazing card for the price really, not far off 780 performance.
 
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^
If all's well, maybe best to leave it...


However, the newest bios has upped the TDP resulting in lower voltage at higher clocks(for me anyway) and no need to add to the Power Limit.

Guess what. I have now got them working.

662dadef598541451d14d07a97999e4e.jpg


^
Ron's(matt) taking the blue theme too far-yes, I saw your AB screenie.:D

tommy's claiming the title of Fantana before I'm labled btw.;)
 
Guess what. I have now got them working. Looks like it was the wifi card that came with the board.

I have to thank Wazza, in the Motherboad section.

Praise the lord!

I asked Kaboom and he confirmed your bios is exactly the same as ours. Glad you got it sorted and amazing to think i Wi-Fi card could be causing all those problems with your cards bios.
 
Is the max voltage on this thing about 1300MV in iTurbo?

It seems each week my overclock becomes unstable and I have to roll back the settings to be able to use it. Could get 1250/1600 now a can only get 1050/1500 to work :(
 
Is the max voltage on this thing about 1300MV in iTurbo?

It seems each week my overclock becomes unstable and I have to roll back the settings to be able to use it. Could get 1250/1600 now a can only get 1050/1500 to work :(

On the stock bios the voltage can go higher to 1.375v i think but that is a death sentence for your card. I'd stick to 1.3v or lower. The bios flashing bios can only go up to 1.3. How you can keep the card cool enough at those voltages is beyond me. :D
 
Cool so its possible to stop the throttling with one of your custom BIOS yes?

Yes. This is the bios of the moment. Bitches love this bios. You can overclock up to 1100/1500 at 1.175v-1.2v without having to touch the power slider.

Tommy said:
New bios for testing:

925/1250MHz Non Boost 1.175v -INCREASED TDP FROM 130W TO 173W-CrossFire users-ulps can now remain enabled with no performance loss!!!

This is a new bios that Matt and myself have been testing, further feedback welcome-especially if you are running CrossFire.

Matt's found you can overclock further before you need the power limit.

My own testing has achieved slightly lower voltage for my 24/7 clocks:

Before-1100/[email protected] +30% Power Limit

Using this bios-1100/[email protected] no Power Limit adjustment required.

Download Link

http://www.sendspace.com/file/x2swov
 
Hey man thanks for the info and stuff.

Formatted the USB but there are no files present - booted off of it into windows Millenium Edition emergency boot.

However, when I typed atiflash -i it said a load of bull about page file errors?

Any thoughts?
 
Hey man thanks for the info and stuff.

Formatted the USB but there are no files present - booted off of it into windows Millenium Edition emergency boot.

However, when I typed atiflash -i it said a load of bull about page file errors?

Any thoughts?

You must have done something wrong then mate. Check again!

HIS 7950 Ice-Q Bios Flashing Guide - Remove the Boost Voltage of 1.25v, Stop Usage Spiking/Throttling - Give your card a Permanent +50% Power Line -


Here is a step by step guide to flash a bios to your HIS 7950 Ice-Q card which removes the boost part of the bios. So no more high stock voltage of 1.25. It also adds a permanent +50% power line to your graphics card so you dont need to do the power line tweak each time you install a new driver.

Just remember this bios uses stock clocks of 1000/1400 so you need to be sure that your memory can reach 1400 safely.

I will ask Kaboom to create us a new bios using the stock clocks of 925/1250 but removing the boost part of the bios as well as lowering the stock voltage a bit. Everyone should then be able to use that bios safely.

Solutions

You're suffering from the boost bios throttling problem. There are three different solutions.

1. Dial back your overclock and voltage significantly. Not ideal i know. Ensure you have the power limit at +20% all the time.

2. Use tommys power hack to increase the power limit to +50%. With boost cards +30% is enough usually to remove all throttling from the card at large overclocks like you're running.

3. Use a custom bios created by someone over at oc.net. It will remove the boost part of your bios and remove the throttling. It will also give you a power limity of 50% by default. The problem is the person who is creating this bios is afk atm, so he's not making them currently. The thread on oc.net is located here.

4. If you want you can try my custom bios. Uses clocks of 1000/1400 by default. Flash this bios to your card. Ensure your card is on bios switch one before flashing. Bios switch two is your backup in case anything goes wrong. I've uploaded my custom bios which Kaboom made me. It removes the boost part of the bios and adds 50% power limit to the cards bios via default so you don't need to do the power limit hack from 2.


Bios Flashing Instructions

You might want to write this down... :p

You need to create a bootable usb stick.

1. Download and install the USB disk format tool here.

2. Download the Windows98 system files here.

3. Create a folder called Win98boot on your desktop, extract the files from step 2 into the folder.

4. Plug in your usb stick. Launch the USB disk format tool. Copy these settings, then click format. You need to select quick format, tick dos startup and select the Win98 folder, like ive done below.

TsVVMvN.jpg


5. Click start, then ok and it should do it.

6. Download atiflash. Extract it onto the usb stick.

7. Download my [URL="http://www.sendspace.com/file/x2swov[/URL]. Extract it and cut and paste it into the usb stick.

8. If you've done everything correctly your usb stick folder contents should look like this. (except the bios should say Matt.rom instead of HIS7950.rom) Do not worry if you have more or less files than what appears in the screenshot. As long as you have the bios file and atiflash thats all that matters. Windows 8 users might have extra files like in my screenshot.

nD7zzVf.jpg


9. Make sure all gpu's in your pc are switched onto bios 1.

s2JqQ2Q.jpg


10. Uninstall gpu drivers and any overclocking apps. Do not keep settings delete everything.

11. Restart your pc. Before you hear the beep keep tapping F8. Boot from the usb stick.

12. You should be at dos prompt. Type atiflash -i to get the adapter number for both your gpu's. Typically it will be 0 and 1, unless you have a gpu in a third pci-e slot. You need the adapter number to tell it which gpu to flash.

13. To flash gpu 1 type atiflash -p -f 0 Matt.rom and hit enter.

Wait for it to finish. It will prompt you to restart but before we do that we need to flash the second gpu as well.

Now do the second gpu (if you have one)

Type atiflash -p -f 1 Matt.rom

Once that has completed and you get a notification saying you can restart press Ctrl+Alt+Delete to restart your pc.

All going well you should get a display and boot back into windows. Now you can reinstall fresh new drivers etc. Boost voltage and boost clock is disabled, your card thinks its a non boost card from now on in and you have the option to select 50% power setting as standard with every driver install.

If something goes wrong and you get no display from the cards after flashing the bios. Turn the pc off and flick both cards bios switch to position 2 to use the stock backup bios. Turn the pc back on and all will be ok.

Good luck. :cool:
 
Nice one dude got it sorted - had to go use the HP USB flash tool as opposed to the alternative...

I assumed the former had not worked the first time as there were no visible files on the USB stick (even with hidden files enabled on Win 8.1 x64).

Thanks for all your hard work on this I'm gonna try overclocking this card properly now :D
 
Nice one dude got it sorted - had to go use the HP USB flash tool as opposed to the alternative...

I assumed the former had not worked the first time as there were no visible files on the USB stick (even with hidden files enabled on Win 8.1 x64).

Thanks for all your hard work on this I'm gonna try overclocking this card properly now :D

Atta boy. Good luck!
 
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