**Official ABIT IP-35 Pro Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

Delayed update on uGuru. I switched the fan to te cpu header with no effect. I had fo revert to Bios 11 to get (what appears to be) correct temperature readings. Maybe the release version of Bios16 will fix it
 
I believe I have successfully made a bootable USB drive to flash the bios with. I have copied over the files: awdflash and M629B_14 ( I think this is the latest non beta bios). When I boot up I will select to boot from "other devices" and that should then bring me to the command prompt. Guys what exactly do I have to type in to flash the bios? I have never used dos so I am a little unfamiliar with it. I always flashed from within Windows with my Asus boards and never had 1 problem, but looking at things this is a little risky with this board, so I will use the USB method.
 
If you downloaded the bios file from abit there are a number of files in the archive. Copy them all onto the flash drive. One of them is a file called "runme.bat", this will start the flash process automatically. So, from the command prompt, which should be C:\> type "runme" and this should get it going.

That's the easiest way to do it. You can also run the awdflash program manually by typing
Code:
AWDFLASH.EXE m629b_14.bin /py /sn /cd /cp /cc

There are more switches that you can use but these are the ones recommended by abit.

Good luck with the flash, from DOS it is 99.9% reliable, can never rule out a power failure ;)

BTW to get the pc to boot from the flash drive, all you have to do is change the hard disk boot priority to use the USB drive first. You don't boot from "other devices". The pen drive is treated as a hard drive, at least it is on my machine.
 
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If you downloaded the bios file from abit there are a number of files in the archive. Copy them all onto the flash drive. One of them is a file called "runme.bat", this will start the flash process automatically. So, from the command prompt, which should be C:\> type "runme" and this should get it going.

That's the easiest way to do it. You can also run the awdflash program manually by typing
Code:
AWDFLASH.EXE m629b_14.bin /py /sn /cd /cp /cc

There are more switches that you can use but these are the ones recommended by abit.

Good luck with the flash, from DOS it is 99.9% reliable, can never rule out a power failure ;)

BTW to get the pc to boot from the flash drive, all you have to do is change the hard disk boot priority to use the USB drive first. You don't boot from "other devices". The pen drive is treated as a hard drive, at least it is on my machine.

Cheers Ronan. I have the awdflash and bin file on the USB stick, after reading up on Abit forums, I added the runme.bat but renamed it autoexec.bat, supposedly this will now auto flash once I set the boot priority. (Just to clarify the actual runme file is labeled runme, not runme.bat, so should I just rename it autoexec and not autoexec.bat?
Thanks:)
 
You will also need abitfae.bat, this file is called by runme.bat

I now have these files on my bootable USB drive: autoexec.bat, abitfae.bat, awdflash and the latest bios M629B_14.bin. As I understand it, no typing is needed at the command prompt with the autoexec.bat in there. ( I will find out soon enough, I'll be upgrading in the next few days:)). Thanks for your help.
 
(Just to clarify the actual runme file is labeled runme, not runme.bat, so should I just rename it autoexec and not autoexec.bat?

The files are RUNME.BAT and AUTOEXEC.BAT, they have to have the .BAT extension. Didn't see that in the end of your previous post, sorry.
 
Wee problem.

My new stuff arrived today:
- IP35 Pro
- Core 2 Quad Q6600
- 2x 2GB Geil PC6400 kits (4GB total)
- Corsair HX 620w PSU

added to:
- GeForce 8800GTX.
- X-Fi Fatal1ty Pro
- 2x 250GB Western Digital Caviar SATA HDDs
- NEC CD/DVD RW drive


The situation is this:

I have two SATA HDD's, and an IDE CD/DVD drive. To install my OS, I need to use the IDE CD/DVD drive. Quite obvious.

The problem is that to get it to try and boot from the IDE CD/DVD, I need to set it as the primary boot device in BIOS. Not a problem, you'd think.

However, after changing the settings in the BIOS, and hitting save and exit, it doesn't seem to actually reboot normally, per se. It powers off for 5 seconds, and comes to life again. And it won't POST. Can't access the BIOS, nothing. It hangs on the following POST codes (read from the 7-segment display on the board), seemingly at random. There doesn't seem to be any obvious pattern behind what codes appear:

# C1: Detect memory
-Auto-detection of DRAM size, type and ECC.
-Auto-detection of L2 cache (socket 7 or below)

# 01: Expand the Xgroup codes locating in physical address 1000:0

# 03: Initial Superio_Early_Init switch

# 23:
-1: Check validity of RTC value: e.g. a value of 5Ah is an invalid value for RTC minute.
-2: Load CMOS settings into BIOS stack. If CMIS checksum fails, use default value instead.

# 25: Early PCI initialization:
-Enumerate PCI bus number.
-Assign memory & I/O resource
-Search for a valid VGA device & VGA BIOS, and put it into C000:0

# 50: Initialize USB

# 52: Test all memory (clear all extended memory to 0)

# 65: Initialize PS/2 Mouse


Sometimes I see a POST screen, sometimes I see a gibberish-ed up POST screen, sometimes I see the board's logo graphic, and sometimes, nothing actually comes up on the screen whatsoever (it doesn't even leave standby).

The only way to get it to pass POST again is to clear the CMOS, thus leaving me with the original boot device settings... all of which means I can't install an OS.

I haven't even got around to looking at overclocking yet, but I'd guess to see the same issues, 'cause CMOS/BIOS is being a right tard.


Ideas, clues, solutions, anything? All welcome.

Cheers fellas.
 
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start off by making sure that the RAM voltage is set to the value recommended by the RAM manufacturer & not the JEDEC 1.8V. You may possibly need to only use 1 DIMM to do this & then add in the 2nd afterwards.

Although I don't think that it's your problem 1 other thing to be aware of is that a very few people have had problems with the Corsair HX/IP35 combo.
 
Cheers.

Would be my luck if it's the case with the PSU. Nothing ever seems to go right as far as PCs go with me :p

Off to give the RAM voltage a go. Failing that, I'll see if it runs with my Hiper type-r 580w PSU. Help narrow things down at least.
 
I finally got set up and online:) I have a few issues that are hopefully small and easily sortable. I have 2 Sata II drives and a Sata DVD-RW. I had a bit of a game getting Vista x64 to install, it saw my drives but wouldn't let my copy the cd to any of them. After fannying around in the bios (and I am still not quite sure what I altered that did the trick) I could install vista. Now I am in the process of installing drivers, software etc and I noticed in My Computer that my 2nd hard drive and my floppy drive aren't showing. They are showing in device manager:confused: Any help would be appreciated. I have yet to flash to the latest bios. Most settings in the bios are either auto or default. I have added a bit more voltage to my ram according to GeIL's website. I have not o'clock anything yet, because 1 it's a been an age since I last o'clocked anything, and 2 this is my 1st pentium chip and the bios is still a little confusing to me. With some help from you guys I would like to o'clock this set up. I'll get a picture up when I've sorted my ftp out. This Tuniq 120 is a monster and to be fair it goes in a lot easier than I thought it would (thanks Billy if your reading:)) I've got the quad Q6600, on the Abit board with 4gig of geil low latency pc6400 ram. I'll post back later with more questions no doubt. But if somebody could post some settings for a small initial o'clock and solve the problem with my missing drives that would be mint.
Thanks,
Paul

Update: Just had a load of what sounded like white noise/feedback through all 4 of my speakers, very loud as well!! I did read the other day that there is an issue with X-FI Music, Vista x64 and 4 gig of ram, is there anything else it could be ? I rebooted, went into the bios set my ram timings to GeIL's recommendations and it blue screened. Set back to auto and back in windows. No speaker feedback now. It did just happen out of the blue though made me jump I'll tell thee Lol. (Speakers now set to low).
More white noise from speakers, snagged some modified drivers that are supposed to cure the x64 Vista, 4 gig ram, X-FI combo issues. Managed to get my back up hard drive sorted (forgot to format it lol) Still searching for my floppy drive! Time for bed, will play some more tomorrow.

Case1.JPG


Case2.JPG
 
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Excellent review of the Abit IP35-Pro @ Anandtech CLICK HERE

One thing that put a really big smile on my face was that the Abit IP35-PRO got the GOLD Award. :D

The DFI UT P35-T2R got the Silver Award. Aww what a shame. . . :( :D ;)



Cool! :) Do you have it running at it's specification? 500mhz @ 4-4-4-12 ?

That's the 3rd forum I've seen you post this on now :confused:

Seriously, I like DFI boards (despite the RD600 being the worst motherboard I've ever owned - due to the chipset being so bad so doesn't matter what DFI did to it) but I don't go around forums posting certain boards get rated above others.

The IP35-Pro is a good board, I've recommended it a few times to people due to it being a P35 board, with a great layout. The Asus P35 boards (I would list, but Asus being Asus - I would be here all day), DFI LP P35-T2R, IP35-Pro and Gigabyte boards seem to be very peg level, each with their strong points.

For instance Mr Key says the IP35-Pro has worst vdroop out of all he's tested P35 wise, but offers a good all round package especially with uGuru. Once my radiator brackets arrive for my water cooling, I'll post a thread about the DFI board and how I've found it. :)
 
Excellent review of the Abit IP35-Pro @ Anandtech CLICK HERE

One thing that put a really big smile on my face was that the Abit IP35-PRO got the GOLD Award. :D

The DFI UT P35-T2R got the Silver Award. Aww what a shame. . . :( :D ;)



Cool! :) Do you have it running at it's specification? 500mhz @ 4-4-4-12 ?

At the moment it's running at default timings (5,5,5,18, 2.1v and 712Mhz).
 
The IP35-Pro is a good board, I've recommended it a few times to people due to it being a P35 board, with a great layout. The Asus P35 boards (I would list, but Asus being Asus - I would be here all day), DFI LP P35-T2R, IP35-Pro and Gigabyte boards seem to be very peg level, each with their strong points.

For instance Mr Key says the IP35-Pro has worst vdroop out of all he's tested P35 wise, but offers a good all round package especially with uGuru. Once my radiator brackets arrive for my water cooling, I'll post a thread about the DFI board and how I've found it. :)
I would have loved to have tried the DFI UT P35-T2R, like I mentioned on the errrr'm :rolleyes: "other" forum we use lol, it's not very cost effective for me going from P35 to P35 it wouldnt be very sensible either :), if both boards had been released at the same time, I would have probally gone for the DFI board & to be honest I'm quite surprised that the Abit board was given a better award, I think it was mainly down to price costs than overall performance comparisons - I guess the Abit board represents good value for money not sure really.
 
I would have loved to have tried the DFI UT P35-T2R, like I mentioned on the errrr'm :rolleyes: "other" forum we use lol, it's not very cost effective for me going from P35 to P35 it wouldnt be very sensible either :), if both boards had been released at the same time, I would have probally gone for the DFI board & to be honest I'm quite surprised that the Abit board was given a better award, I think it was mainly down to price costs than overall performance comparisons - I guess the Abit board represents good value for money not sure really.

I agree, I bought an Asus P5K DLX and the only reason I sold it on was due to wanting some quick cash to finish off my PC343B build. The last few Abit boards that have come out have been very good. The AB9 QuadGT and now the IP35-Pro are both quicker success' than the MAX32 board.

If I used air, uGuru would be a great tool but I use water and controlling the amount of fans I do is easier on a dedicated controller.
 
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